VinhZXT

Here it is with Dynomax side pipes. These pipes sound awesome. Note I mount them along the rockers and so they don't look that low to the ground. More pictures on my web page.

I have experienced a bad misfire on a Z before and it turned out to be a cracked ditributor cap. Double check the cap. GL

Why do you need wide body kit for the ZXs? You can put on very wide wheels under the stock fenders. Plus there is nothing wrong with the body lines on the ZXs except for the front and rear bumpers. If you can address the front and rear bumper problems you will have a very good looking car.

This was the reason why I didn't work on my frame first. Put your motor in and do all your fab and modding. After that remove everything and then put it on the Rotisserie and work on the frame. Stripping the under coat, repair floor, frame rails etc. and more welding underneath.. and then dip, prime paint the frame. When you get the frame back you can start putting all new parts back on. Well this is the plan for my car anyway. I am in the same stage as you probably. I don't know when I am completely done with all the fab works so I can start working on the frame restoration. GL Let's hope someone else went thru with this to share some experience and or mistakes.

Clive, That max should have the 4 speeds auto trans already. It should bolt up to the turbo L28 engine without a problem. Drive that sucker down to me so we can do something to it. I already got the turbo motor and everything to swap into the max. What do you think? Sound like fun..

Look at the link above and on the 4th picture. The original wheel has 24 blanks or gaps in it. There is a photo electric eye on the wheel and it counts the pulse each time the gap passes the eye. The electronics in the gauge uses these pulses to display the speed. You can see in that picture that he covers 9 of those 24 gaps. Therefore the spacing on the wheel are not even. This will give the incorrect readings at low speeds. The right way to do it is cover up just 8 gaps. This will give consistent speed reading accross the band but it will be off (reading slower than actual speed). You can fix this by selecting different speedometer cog in the transmission. What you want is a smaller (less teeth) cog so that will cause the wheel in the gauge will turn faster. Now does this make sense? If your gauge shuts down the first thing you want to check is the power to it. I have seen the connectors in the back of the gauge not making good contact to the gauge just like the famous problems with the turbo ECU connectors. Check this by wait until it shuts off and put your hand behind the gauge and wiggle the black connector. if that doesn't fix it open up the whole gauge and look on the circuit board for breaks or cracks. GL

At low speed it reads incorrectly. If I remember correctly it displays slower then the actual speed at low speed. At 55 and up it displays close enough to the actual speed. Here is the theory behind this mod. Take the top speed in KMH devide it by the top speed in MPH. You have the ratio. Then use this ratio calculate the pulse per revolution on the chopper wheel. Then use electrical tape to cover up some of the holes on the wheel. The problem is you can't have even slots on the wheel. This will yield incorrect speed readings at low speeds. There is a way to fix this and that is to leave even slots on the wheel. This will yield the wrong speed reading accross the band. Use different speedometer gear to correct your speedo. Does that make sense?

Joe, You are correct. Man why I am keep thinking the longer shaft is on the passenger side? I just double check with my open rear and the longer one is on the passenger side. Thanks

stprasinz, You should have posted a few weeks earlier. My brother crashed my yellow ZXT and I just junked it couple weeks ago. I've converted from analog to digital for this car and I used the non turbo digital harness to start with. I remembered I had to run a couple extra wires for turbo related stuffs. If your digital gauge goes out that usually means something wrong with the gauge and not the wiring. This is the reason why people hates the digital gauge. I still have a couple of the digital clusters. One I used the method above to convert to 140MPH and the other still stock. The only one problem with the above conversion is at low speed it won't read the speed correctly.

Guys, Can I swap the input shafts for the 300ZXT half shafts? I bought an LSD several years ago and this is no normal LSD. The longer input shaft ( the longer half shaft) must go on the passenger side of the differential. If I stick the longer input shaft (the longer half shaft) on the driver side it won't go in all the way in. I have a pair of the 280ZXT half shafts but I know swapping the input shafts for these will be a PITA. If the input shafts for the 300ZXT can be swap easily I will have to buy them and the adaptors to use with this LSD. It is a 3.7 CLSD. I can open it up and take some pictures so you all can figure what type of LSD this is if it helps. Thanks guys Vinh

ZXR_kid, Thanks for the verification. My wife been nagging at me for trading the whale tail. This was awhile back when I had no intention of restoring this car. Now I have enough experiences, tools and the space to restore any car now. The only problem is I still have my Cobra project to work on and 2 more 240Zs are waiting in my garage. I rather restore the 240Z then this ZXR. Atleast now I know for sure mine is truely a ZXR. Thanks Vinh

The engine harness should be completely removed since you will be using the LT1 or LS1 harness. For the 280Z this would be the EFI harness and everything else attach to it. On the 240Z I don't think there are many wires there. Yes you will need the diagram to tell you which wire goes to which gauges so you can splice them in but it's easier just to ohm it out from the dash harness. Most of you running with new gauges anyway. What I did was label all the sensor wires at the connectors for the dash harness and at the end of the LT1/LS1 harness. Make sure you have everything matched up.

I did 2 LS1 swaps and I didn't use any wiring diagram. To clean the engine wiring harness I took the whole harness and put it a table. Cut all the tapes and open up the harness. Start from the front of the harness (where the head lights) label each connectors. You don't need any diagram to figure out which connector is for which function. You should have 2 connectors for headlights, 2 connectors for the running and signal lights, 2 spade connectors for the horns. Everything else other than that you can trace them back to the 2 big connectors at the fire wall and cut. For the wires I cut I leave 6" of wire from those 2 connectors just incase you need to run extra wires to the engine bay. You can use these pig tails to run your wire thru the fire wall. You will need to run thick wire for the electric fan and alternator or A/C. Don't tape the harness up until you completely got everything working. GL V. oops I forgot one more connector for the wiper and some connector for the ground and brake fluid sensor. I didn't keep them so I cut them too except for the wiper.

BleechZee, I know I have a ZXR. I can't see any of the VIN number on your links. Can you verify my VIN number? it's HS130148325. I've traded the whale tail with someone awhile back and I am about to sale my ZXR to a friend. I just want to verify that it is truely a ZXR. If it is then one of these days if I buy the whale tail back I might restore it to original. THanks Vinh Tripod won't let me link to the picture so go to here http://vvu.tripod.com/zxspyder/Starting/ and click on "79 car"

We put 2500 miles on my friend's LS1 Cobra also. One small problem with the differtial and the driveshaft though. The Cobra has the LSD and we are using the U joint axles. They won't lock into the diff so it was loosing oil slowly. That problem is solved now. The drive shaft also got some new grade 7 bolts with lock tite. We are ready for the next trip already.

This should save some posts. Front left to right: Me, Kjones, Speeder, Rags Back left to right: 1Tuffz, Qwik240z, My friend Thinh, EvilC Pix is from the convention

Finally finish working on my friend's (Thinh) Cobra. Now I can spend all my time working on mine again. We just put on 2400 miles this past week on this LS1 Cobra Z. We took the car to the Z convention in Daytona Florida. There were a lot of people that have no idea what is this kit and who made it at the convention lol. More pictures can be seen on my web site

I am back early from the Z convention. I brought the LS1 Cobra to VA to meet up with Pete P. and his friend Glen. Unfortunately Pete couldn't get his motor in his Z so we had to leave without him. So we had 2 Cobras and an LS1 Z (Clive's Z) for the drive down to the convention. Too bad we couldn't wait for Quik240Z and 1TuffZ otherwise we would have 5 V8 Zs. The LS1 Cobra ran excellent on the way down. My friend took the Cobra on the track as well. He was nervous since this was his first time on the track but he had fun after the first run. On the way back we had a little trouble with the rear end. It ran out of oil and made loud chattering sounds. I had to remove the half shaft to put in the gear oil. Right after that the drive shaft fell off. We were very fortunate to find all the nuts and bolts and reinstall the driveshaft and made it home safely. We put 2400 miles this past week on the LS1 motor and it drove perfect. I have a few pictures and videos for everyone to view. The video clip for my Cobra was too long so I can't upload it. Enjoy http://video.cardomain.com/Clip.aspx?key=1C1B5250611268A5 http://video.cardomain.com/Clip.aspx?key=F3B96B9C9DE4075F http://video.cardomain.com/Clip.aspx?key=23C99ECD64465A21 I also have a picture of the HBZ members at the convention. From left to right (front row) Me, Ken Jones (Kjones) , Ric Bowers (Speeder) , Joe (Rags) Back row David (1TuffZ), David (Qwik240Z), Thinh (my friend and the owner of the Cobra), Clive (EvilC) Here's a picture of the 3 Zs going down

Yes it's a C5 Vette. I am also using the C5 instrument cluster in my Z which I taped up there. This picture was taken while I was working on the dash so I don't want dust to get in it.

Milesz, Sorry about the PM. I thought you have a manual trans. I used the C5 auto shifter. I don't have the center console over it yet so I don't know how it will look with the center console. I have a few photos of the linkage I made. I used the stock rod/linkage from my 280ZXT. Anyway pictures worth thousand words. GL V.

If you run A/C I don't think you have enough room on the left side to run everything thru there. the condensor will take up more space up front and will give you less room for the CAI. The best way is to run like Phil's if you have AC.

They don't fit period. A friend of mine offer a set for my Cobra. I took one home and tryied and it is too big. They look real good though

Here is a picture of my set up. I am using the stock fan shroud and mechanical fan. I just add an electric fan in front and use it to suck the hot air out of the engine compartment after shutting the engine off and if the temperature is too high More pictures here http://www.cardomain.com/ride/768663/4 BTW I like Phil's install also V.

On my turbo ZX I had to install the tach adaptor.

I think your boost sensor is dead. The best way to verify this is to hook up an aftermarket boost gauge. Just T it off any vacuum line from the intake manifold. GL