VinhZXT

I didn't look at the motor yet but I think it's a 5.4L. I believe it's also a gasoline car and not diesel. So I guess it's not worth buying then. Thanks for the responses.

Guys, Can someone tell me how much hp does a 2004 Ford E350 motor has? I have a friend selling it cheap to me. Thanks Vinh

sorry guys, what plates are you talking about? Please post some pictures so I have some ideas. I don't mind bring back some small stuffs for you guys. Just send me an email and I will ask my friend to start looking. Some pictures to identify what you are talking about would helpful.

hehe guys.. I am talking about things I can take on the air plane with me. I will be flying business class so they don't charge me for bringing on over size item. I would love to bring the one sitting on the car home but I am sure the wife will burn down all my Zs. I already asked my friend to look for the aftermarket turbo manifold. If I can't find anything maybe I will bring back another Arita Speed air dam for one lucky guy from here. V.

I am going to Japan again in May. What should I bring back from Japan?

The Japanese don't make the covers for these any more. You can fill in the indent easily so leave the indents. If I ever use this spoiler I would definitely custom make the covers before I put the spoiler on. BTW I am going to Japan again next month... what would you guys like me to bring back this time?

what were you looking for that you had to remove this spring? still scratching my head on this.

I have a couple more 240Zs in my garage here and I do enjoy putting LS1 motor into the Zs as well. I guess this is the reason why I can never finish mine. However I was just kidding. I wouldn't know how much to sell one for. But if anyone near the Philly area wants me to do the lsx swap PM me.

I am taking order. Start collecting cash. I don't credit cards.

Steeltoad, Thanks for the tips. That's actually looks pretty good. I ask my body guy came over take a look at it this evening. He puts some tapes on it to match all the body lines and told me what to trim to make it looks good. he said it looks fine with the gap in the back. I just need to do a little trimming at the lower rear of the scoop and he will take care the rests. Thanks for tips though V.

Thanks for all the inputs. I am still following this thread. I think I will leave it the way it is for now. I had finished the other side also. I will do a little body work and primer it and see what it looks like. This is not etch in stone yet so I can always go back and redo it and close the back openning after the frame restoration. After the frame restoration that's when the body panels will go on the car permanent. I am still have plenty of other things to work on before the frame restorations. So please keep the ideas coming. ShoZ, Thanks for the tips on how to make the plexiglass scoop. If it the fiberglass doesn't work out I might have to go this route.

How do you know you have enough fuel pressure if you don't have a FPR and the fuel pressure gauge? Unless you pinched the return line. Go to your auto part store and get a 99 and up C5 fuel filter/regulator and put it in. That will get your motor running. Have you been following the other post at the bottom from 73240Z?.

From the picture I see you have the fuel line going from the old fuel line to the fuel rail. Where is your fuel pressure regulator? If you have a FPR connected somewhere then I suggest you to hook up the fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail and verify it. Have you verify that you have sparks while cranking the car? How do you wire your fuel pump? Double check on the main power source for the fuel pump relay. When in doubt I always connect the power source for the fuel pump relay directly to 12V constant. I've made a mistake on Clive's car and tried to hook the power for the PCM and the fuel pump to the ignition source and it wasn't on during cranking. This will give the no start condition but when you turn the key to RUN it powered up the fuel pump and the PCM just like it should. GL.

I suggest you to double check your fuel pump relay and your wiring to it.

you asked for it: http://southjersey.craigslist.org/car/549968910.html

Thanks for the replies. I will have to think about this some more.

You have the signal wire shorted to ground some where. For the Zs, 0 ohm = full and 80 ohms=empty. GL

Mike, Thanks for the response. I realized the FFR scoop is different than mine. I am not too worry about trying to make it looks like the original or FFR. This Nalle Kit is not that close to the original. So I am just trying to make the whole kit looks better. For the water drainage I will block the inside of the scoop and make the water drain to the front of the scoop. Again I was worrying about the pressure build up inside the scoop. That's why I have the openning in the back. Based on the FFR scoop I guess I can actually close this openning without worrying about cracks in the future. I do kinda like the openning in the back of the scoop though.

Cameron, I can guarantee you 100% it's not the oil pressure. I started my LS1 with the oil pressure sensor unplugged. So it's not the oil pressure. On the passenger side of the oil pan there is an oil level sensor. This might be what you are talking about that will stop the engine in the event the oil is empty or what not. Well according to my info this sensor feeds the BCM (body control module) and the BCM turns on a warning light for low oil on the gauge somewhere. In your swap you don't have the BCM so that's not it either. I highly suggest you find someone close to you with any type of scanner like EFI Live or HPtuner or whatever. With the scanner you can see all the info on all the sensors on the engine. From my experience on these LS1 engines if you have sparks then it's most likely fuel relate problem. Please give me more info on your setup. Maybe I can pin point the problem. GL V.

I was thinking of removing the glass and put in a piece of plexiglass. Then cut a hole in the plexiglass and build a sliding window behind it. This will get some fresh air into the cabin if I open up the sliding window. I don't think the brake duct will work since I don't think this car will ever be on the track. Maybe a 1/4 mile track. I am still waiting for more opinions before I start on the other side. Thanks for the responses. V.

I was afraid of the pressure build up that's why I left a small openning. The original plexiglass doesn't have the openning in the back. I can't imagine how I will blend it in with the rest of the body with that openning in the back. So this is purely an experiment but I don't want to have to redo it.

Guys, I got to ask you guys for help on this one. As some of you might know I am building the Nalle Daytona Coupe and I am in the process of addressing the 1/4 window air scoops. The kit supposed to come with the plexi glass air scoops and they are supposed to be bolted to the side windows. I don't like the way the plexiglass scoops look so I am building them out of fiberglass and mold them into the 1/4 instead. I just finished installing one and I want to hear some opinions on it. So here are a few pictures. I plan on painting them the same color as the car. OK let me hear your opinions guys. Thanks V.

You need 4 things to get the engine running. Spark, fuel, air and correct timing. The good thing is you have spark so the next thing you should check is fuel especially you just messed with it. Unplug the fuel line that goes to the fuel rail and put it into a bottle. Turn the key on/off couple times to see fuel is coming out. If nothing comes out then check the fuel pump connections in the back. If you get fuel coming out of the feed line then the next thing to check is the fuel pressure. I've seen many old Zs, sat for a long time, had the fuel lines half clogged. This will prevent the fuel pump from building enough pressure at the injectors. This will give you the original symptoms. GL

The fuel pressure sensor doesn't send signal to the PCM. This means it can not tell the PCM to cut off the fuel. Do you have an auto or manual trans? Do you have a scan tool? If so try to read the the DTC off the PCM. As far as I know there is nothing except for the VATs will tell the PCM to shut off fuel. However there is something call a limp mode that the PCM puts the car into when it detects something wrong like water temp too high, abuse mode detected etc. In this mode the PCM will fire only 4 cylinders until the problem clears itself. Have you check the fuel presure?

I am glad you were able to find the diagram. I believe the schrader valve is there for the tech to use to trouble shoot the fuel system. This is where they would hook up the fuel pressure gauge to check the fuel pressure. I knew your problem was fuel related. GL V.