VinhZXT

Where did you get those wheels? I like to get this same set of wheels for my ZX because it will have an LSx very soon. Thanks

Somebody better jump on the rack & pinion+front crossmember and the brake booster+master

I love how you make it look like it's in a movie. Good job to another VNese guy. Nice car.

Looking very nice. I am right behind you on my project. I am in the process of painting the engine bay and underneath the car. At the same time I am restoring all the suspension parts. I just spray painted the crossmember but didn't like the result. So I decide to buy myself the powder coating kit. I am waiting to get a beat up oven to start powder coating the parts.

You guys are using the Sanderson headers from JTR. The headers Rich and I are trying to get might not have these problems.

Jeffie, I am still around. You've been eating good ey? You are lucky to marry a Viet girl. She will feed you good. Ask her to make you some Pho Ga` and get Ga` di bo (walking chicken). Dip it with ginger fish sauce.

Dan, Well I didn't finish. The easiest and first task is to cut off the top first. The second and hardest part is cutting the top of another car with the targa and weld it back on right? I was just checking to see he will get thru the first step.

Rich has a problem on the passenger side with the above headers. So we went back to the sanderson web site and found this: http://www.sandersonheaders.com/index.php?cPath=21_23_58 Appearantly they've been building custom headers for other people's projects. I called and talked to the guy (Jeremy) and he said he can mix match headers. From the look on this web site the CC1LS1 header should work on the passenger side of Z or ZX with the C5 style mount. Any of the LS series header will work on the passenger side for the Z or ZX. Rich should be getting a set for his ZX LS1 swap soon. PS. These should work with the JCI mounts also.

If you can get a CLSD then it bolts right into the S130 and you can use the R200 half shafts. The VLSD will bolt into place also but the half shafts will be another story. You are on your own here. For the Q45 you will have to do some serious modification to the rear crossmember to bolt the short nose R200 in there.

it will be much easier just to cut the top off completely..

The mirrors in the first picture are the cheap plastic ones. I have a few pairs of the real JDM chrome fender mirrors. PM me if anyone interest.

This looks very familiar lol.. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/721840/2

I got one sitting inside my garage. 73 240Z. I am in south Philly. Might be your lucky day. the car doesn't run but you will like it when you see it. Give me a call 215-880-9557

Guys, I just did a search on the headers for the stock C5 style mounts and I found these http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com/performance_parts/index.html?item=1414 From the look they should work with the stock C5 style mount with the LSx engine in a Z. Is there anyone in Indiana that can verify this for me? I appreciate the help.

Mike, Thanks for the info. Which type of engine mounts work with these new headers? I think I will be using the C5 mount type and make my own crossmember. Vinh

I am going to attempt to do this soon. I am doing some research on how to get around the steering problem.

I put a lot of thought into my latest design. The first one was not that good/strong. The current design, the mounting tabs that welded to the frame rails are 1/4" and not 1/8" and you can see how I made those pieces. Check carefully if you have not seen how those pieces made up. In addition I welded more metal on top of the frame rails to strengthen them up even more. I decided to go with this design because it will help the ease of removal and installation of the engine. I have not seen Zgad's and Beta mounts so I can speak for them. I am not a race car builder but I am an electrical engineer and I know something is weak when I see it. The 2 round tubes you welded to the crossmember look very weak. The top where you weld to the frame rails I think it's strong enough provided. I am not saying any bad about your design. I am just showing you my mount design to give another option if you want to make it removable. Good luck

I am in South Philly. I've just gone thru my frame restoration. Just a few more minor clean up and ready for re-undercoat and paint. We have to hook up sometimes. Please PM me your number and I will give you a call. I play poker up your way every Friday or Sat. V.

The joints at the 90 degrees angle should be cut at 45 degrees and welded together. It will give you more contact area and therefore make stronger weld. The 2 round pieces looks like something on a bicycle. Why not use square tubes? The square tubes will give you much more contact areas for welding. How do you plan to attach the top to the frame rails? If you plan to drill holes into the frame rails to bolt this crossmember to then you will need to beef up the frame rails where you will bolt to. The bottom of the frame rails are thick enough but the sides are not. Check out my mount design here http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2079260/7 , I think it will help with your design. Good luck V.

KB, Not the connectors. We beat the crap out of the injectors and they start to work. I removed my fuel rail and empty all the gas last night. Clive, No, this is a kit car.

The motor has been sitting for a long time. I will make sure I keep this in mind when fire up my engine in a few years. My engine has been sitting for 3 years now. Wow time flies.

Well guess what... you are all failed the test. No one would have guess this one right. All 8 injectors were all dead. It was pretty simple after I thought about it. We hook up the noid light to the injector and see no pulse. We then unplug the connectors to the injectors and try the same test and the noid lights are flashing. We lift up the fuel injectors and connect 12V to them and none of them click. We remove the fuel injectors and beat the crap out of them and slowly 7 of them start working. So we replace the dead injector and put everything back and it started up. Don't over look the simple stuff guys.

Clive, Yes I remember I've made a mistake hooking up your ignition wire. So I definitely won't make that mistake again. Right now I hot wire all the pink and orange wires to the EFI harness to the battery. Then I just used the starter wire and touch the 12V battery to start the car. I disconnect the PCM connectors and measured all ignition sources and battery sources and ground at that point and they all checked out good. I am seriously running out of idea on this one.

Man I am really stump on this one. I took my friend's LS1 Z over to the shop and disconnected all the above sensors (MAF, O2 and air temp) and his car started up just fine. I put the new PCM into my friend's Z and my friend's LS1 Z started up and runs fine. So the PCM is OK. Something else I am missing on the engine that prevents the PCM from sending pulses to the injectors. I also compare the tune file from this PCM to Clive's tune file and there is no noticable differences. One thing I noticed is on my friend's LS1 Z, when I disconnect the water temp sensor it won't start. Originally the water temp sensor was busted on this motor so we replaced it and it still won't start. We also don't have the belt hook up also. This means the alternator is not hook up also.