VinhZXT

Tony, That's the answer I was looking for and I plan on using POR15 on my suspension parts also. Thanks.

Maichor, Ah.. I remember now... The software alone won't do you any good. You will need the interface cable. This is what costs the most. The software you can get from any body. Sorry I can't be of any help. If you have lean condition on the driver side then I suggest start swapping O2 and then the injectors from side to side one at a time. Then check to see the problem moves. GL. V.

Thanks for all the replies guys. I will have to do more thinking on what I am going to do. This car will be a nice weather car only so it will never see any snow or rain. Well maybe some rain if I get caught in it. So I might or might not use POR 15. I just talked to my body guy and he said to use etch primer and then he can spray some rubberize coat on there for me and then paint it. It should give me that factory look. Does anyone have any picture of what the POR 15 look like that they can share? I am going to continue to do research on this. Thanks again V.

Jim, Sorry to hear this. I had luck using Jesse at Wait4me performance to reprogram my PCM. For the harness all you need is some basic electronics you can hook up relays and power to the harness and you should be able to start the car. You don't need to send it out for it to work. If you go this far with the swap you might as well learn everything yourself. This is for future problems you know what to fix and don't have to take it to any shop. I have a tendency of not trusting anyone working on my car unless I am standing there and watch them. If you need help with hooking up the wiring harness just give me a call when you get to that point. GL V.

I have visited your web site many times before my swap. I couldn't find any headers to fit so I ended up modifying the stock C5 headers. If I didn't have the C5 headers I would probably fab up my own headers by now.

I've been down this road before with my swap too so I know. When I finished my swap the car had a misfire on the passenger side bank and it had a huge back fire problem. After many days searching on LS1tech I found out I was not the only one with this problem and it seemed like no one can pin point the problem. After awhile I got fed up with it so I bought the tuning software and it helped me solved my problem. With the software it told me 2 cylinders were misfiring. So I went back to check the wiring for the coils and they were reversed on the passenger side. I swap the 2 coil signals at the PCM connectors and the problem solved. I am still chasing the misfiring on my engine now but I know which cylinder is misfiring and the "counts". When I raised the rpm up a little the misfire goes away. One of my exhaust is not completely welded on so I think this might be my problem. Other than that I don't have any running issue with my swap. If I was close by I will give you a hand. It's really easy if someone already have the software on a lab top. It will take 5 mins to pin point which cylinder misfiring. From there you guess whether it's bad coil or clogged injector or bad O2 sensor. Wait a minute I just remember something. All you need is the scan tool to do this. In order word you don't need a PCM license to do a scan. Only when you are tuning your PCM you will need a license. I wonder if I send you the software you can load it up to your lab top and you can use it?

Wheeler, If you have redone the T/C cup then the CC1LS1 headers might work for you with the C5 style mounts. Pics of the CC1LS1 header http://www.rjays.com/Exhaust/snd-sbc-blockhuggers-01.htm. You should not have any problem on the driver side. The only problem you will have is on the passenger side. I have some pictures on my web site of the passenger side's header http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2079260/3 . I am using the modified C5 headers and they are off the center a little and you can see it is close to the T/C cup. The further it is offset to the rear the closer it gets to the T/C cup. The CC1LS1 header offset to the rear even more compare to the mine. So if you have reduce the T/C cup you might get lucky with the CC1LS1 headers. The engine crossmember for the C5 style mounts can be fab up easily. I am getting ready to redo my crossmember so that I can bolt the new crossmember to the frame rails similar to how the old crossmember bolts to the frame rails. I've been tempting to get these headers and try them out to see they fit my set up.

Hi All, I am working on restoring the bottom of the car and I am going to use POR 15. I did a search and no one mentioned anything about using the marine clean and metal ready before applying the POR15. I've just checked the POR15 web site and they said to use the marine clean and the metal ready before applying the POR15 and this is to apply it to rusty surface. My question is do I need the cleaner and the metal prep solution to apply POR 15 to clean metal? Thanks for the info V.

Machoir, For something like this it's best to find someone near you with a tuning software like EFI Live or HP Tuner that can help you. With the tuner software you can see the activities of all the sensors live and you can see which cylinder is misfiring. This should help pin point the problem. Based on what you provided I am leaning toward dirty injectors. GL

They are too small for fender mirrors. Yup they will fly out often. BTW I have the real fender mirrors for sale. PM me if you want them.

I am with Sho-Z also. Lot of squeaking around the hood area. No problem with the windshield. I also tied the rear strut towers together. I have no problem with the rear. Only the front I can feel flexing if I drive one wheel on a speed bump. The Z should be better since it is shorter at the front compare to the ZX. So with the triangulate strut tower re-enforcement you should be good. I will re-enforce the front of my ZX in a few years when I rebuild it.

I have 3 items: plastic grill, auto shifter assembly and right pillar chrome trim. PM me

I have a coworker selling one right now. This is an ex-cop car and he said the motor was rebuilt recently and running strong. He is asking $1500. I am in Philly PA though.

I have an 8 points cage and can still feel the flex. Here is a test I did to test for flexing. Jack the car right in front of the rear tires and check the gaps at the doors. With my cage in the gaps made very little change. You can see pictures of my re-enforcement cage on this page http://www.cardomain.com/ride/768663/5 GL. PS. I recently saw a convertible Z for sale on ebay and it didn't have any reenforcement. I wonder who bought it.

I seam welded everything. I've also welded all the relief cuts. I suggest you do the same to add more strength to it. Keep in mind this is where the hood mounted to. Other than that everything looks good. GL

Clive, You are lucky that you have some helping hands. I had do it all by myself. Just took out my LS1 and stripped the whole car down this past weekend. I am waiting for some help to move the shell into my booth and put in on the rotisserie. I didn't realize how much wires are in the car until I took everything out. Probably a good 30 lbs including the ECU and the fuse box.

I've just finished repairing this exact same part on my Z. There are a few pictures at the bottom of this page http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2079260/4 . Sorry I don't know how to describe the whole process but if you look at the pictures they should give you some ideas. GL V.

I am willing to bet it's fuel. How did you check the FP? Do you have a fuel pressure gauge hooked up? If you don't then you can't really verify the fuel pressure. I've experience with this problem many times before. With the fuel pressure gauge hooked up and at the first start the fuel pressure was fine and then it drops off slowly due to a dirty gas tank and a partial clog at the pickup line/filter in the tank. This will give you the same symptoms as you described. Since you need to drop the S30 tank to inspect the side I suggest you to get a fuel pressure gauge and check that out first. GL.

You just need to replace the companion flanges with the ones from a turbo ZX. Providing that you're already have the R200 rear in the car. If you have the R180 in the car then you have to swap that out too. I don't recall any R180 has CVs axles. I have a set of these companion flanges from a turbo car in my garage. let me know if you want to buy them. The easiest way to do this swap is to buy a parts 280ZXT and swap the whole A-arms and brakes in 1 piece. GL

Adam, Did you receive the oil pump shaft? You can go to your local auto part store to buy a T fitting with the right thread and it should work for the oil line on the side of the block.

The last time I checked MSA doesn't make this spoiler for the S130 any more. I've modified the spoiler a little bit. I added fiberglass at the front tips of the spoiler to make the lines flow with the body. My brother crashed this car last year and I still have the spoiler in my garage. I should have save the "side spats" from this car. They are the 2 triangle pieces attached to the lower quarter. I missed this car. The people in Philly knows me by this car. PS. I still have the 16" Riken rims I bought from Ross at MMS a long time ago.

They are not the same. You will need to replace the dash harness, the temp sensor and maybe the fuel level sensor. I did a swap from analog to digital a long time ago and I didn't have to replace the fuel sensor. However I've heard some people said that they had to replace the fuel level sensor. I have the analog harness if you need it.

Nice job on the harness. I have gone thru the same thing with my swap. I used the C5 harness and it has a little more wires compare to yours. I eliminated one of the fuse box on mine. I don't see why you need 2 fuse boxes to feed power to the engine. Unless you plan to use the other one to feed all the other accesories in the car and remove the stock fuse box. GL v.

David, My son and daughter are 11 and 13 also. I have more Zs in my garage and I wish I can get my kids to do a project with me. All they want are the Zs I already finished.

I have a pair of grey seats for the ZX and they are in good shape. I am in South Philly which is a plus for you. Let me know