VinhZXT

Mario, Yeah I notice that big ugly gap between the front of the hood and the front spoiler also. Just like the MSA spoiler. But look at what I did

Damn, This thing would look sick on my SpyderZXT since it already got the round butt. I am interest. Who started the group buy? V.

There is another link in that thread that will tell you all about the story you just mentioned. I just found the owner's info. http://www.societyns.org/society/bio.aspx?MemberID=3607 Vinh

Look at what I found guys. The owner is about 5 minutes from me. My wife will try to contact the owner so we can get a tour and take some pictures. Enjoy. Vinh http://www.ffcobra.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php/ubb/get_topic/f/5/t/002346.html

Wayne, Do you have a sound clip of your exhaust? Can I hear it? Thanks Vinh

Wayne, Yes I do like the ones you have on your Z but I want mine to somewhat ressemblance the original Daytona Coupe. The twin side pipes are unique on the Coupe so I want to have them. I actually installed the Dynomax side pipes similar to yours on my friend's Cobra. This is because he likes the way they look. At one point I was going to install these Dynomax sidepipes like yours to save me time, money and headache but I thought about it and I decided to stick with the original plan. Time to do some research on silencers. Vinh

Thanks for the info. I have searched every where already and no one sells 2" glass pack that are longer than 24". The 2" glass packs they sell actually have 3" outter diameter. I am looking for 2 and 1/2 " outter diameter. 2 3" glass pack on the side of a Z will be way too big and bulky. Here is the look I am going after:

Hi All, I run into a little of problem with my side pipes. I bought the FFR side pipes and after cutting them up for modification I found the inner diameter of each pipe is only 1". I also got some feed back from FFR members that these side pipes are very restrictive. So I want to build my own side pipes now. What I want to use are 2" straight thru pipes. Then slip a sections of a 2 1/2" pipe over the 2" pipe. Stuff a lot of fiberglass in the gap between the pipes then weld the ends shut. Typically I am building 2 silencers on each side. Also do I need to drill holes in the inner pipe (the 2" pipe) so it will absorb sound better? Opinions/ideas are welcome. Thanks Vinh

What is the point of building a car and then have to trailer it every where you go? Cars are made to be driven.

For short term I suggest you use the baby seat in the back. So now is a good time to weld in a few brackets so you can strap down the baby seat. Since your son is still young you can do this. For long term I would suggest you to look into removing the center console and custom make a shift boot cover then fab up a center seat with seat belts. You can make it so that if you are not using the center seat you can fold it down and use it as an arm rest. You can do this. Good luck. Vinh

Do you have a ZX or a Z? If you have a ZX you might be able bolt in a baby seat in the back. You will have to remove the whole rear speaker panel. Here is a picture of my roadster ZX with the rear speaker panel remove. You can see how much room you have there. Just make sure you bolt the baby seat down really good. GL Here are more pictures if you want to see http://www.cardomain.com/ride/768663/5 Vinh

oops..

Happy Bday Joey. Man I can't believe I am getting there very soon too. I hope my Ls1 Cobra Daytona will be completed when I get to 40. I will definitely have a block party with all the Zcars parking on the block lol. Oops but my Bday is in January and I am in the Northeast so no block party and no BBQ either lol. Anyway congrat. Vinh

Wayne, Oops my bad. I see a big different between my friend's Z and yours. Look at the tires in the back of your car I am sure that will help with the clearance issues.

I see you still have the EFI wiring there. You can remove the EFI wiring from the small black box to the computer. You can remove the fusible links but you have to replace them with Maxi fuses. Otherwise you won't have any short circuit protection. The big black box in the front you can cut it if and only if you don't plan to use the head lights and horn. The headlights and horn relays are in that big black box. GL Vinh

Zcarnut, "Speaking of the pre-load spring, I recall someone on another forum who removed the springs altogether. Apparently without problems(?). He concluded that since the free-play range (on his axles) was so small the spring did not serve any useful function." I don't think this is a good idea. If the spring is not there the center shaft can slam to the grease cover when the car goes over bumps. Eventually it will hit the nut on the stub axle. I actually did removed the springs on my car and then I thought about it I cut them shorter and put them back. Vinh

Rytherwr, Have you lower your car down after the exhaust yet? I installed the Patriot side pipes on my friend's Z and it looked great on the lift but after I dropped the car man I immediately knew that the pipes was too low. I have about 1inch between the flanges and the ground. I installed 2 sets of flanges before the side pipes for easy removal and installation. I used 2 1/2" pipes BTW. Here is a picture: Vinh

The ad didn't mentioned anything about the rusts. This is a MD car and rust is an issue there too.

What type of suspension do you have on it? The web page mentioned coil over but I don't see any pictures of that. Nice car though. I am interest in finding out what is the reserve price also. Thanks

I did some measurements today. I removed the metal covers at the ends of the shafts. Stand them up on a table. The longer shaft measured 15 3/4inch from the table up the end where it meets the differential. The shorter shaft is 15 1/4". So if you swap the shorter shaft to the passenger side you will have 1/2" slack. I doubt that will yank the input shaft out of the differential.

Zcarnut, Yep thanks for the info. I opened up the outter CV and checked and realized I can't just cut it short. Seem like the best way is to cut the metal ring on both CV and swap the shorter center section and weld the ring back on. I just played with my setup the past 3 days and fortunately I don't have a problem. I removed the springs behind the metal cups of the CV and installed the CVs on the car. Then I checked to see how much movement of the center shafts (sliding it back and forth) and I got about 1/2 inch. I ended up cutting those springs a little shorter and that helps putting the metal cups and springs back on a lot easier. Brian, Sorry to hear that you have to go back to the Ujoint axles. Don't throw the CV out just yet.

I just installed the Dynomax side pipes on my friend's Z with an LS1. The side pipes look real good on the car. You biggest problem will be the clearance under the car. I didn't notch the frame rails and I run 2 1/4 inch pipes and they are an inch or less above ground. I will have to go back an notch the frame rails and then build a bridge over the pipes to keep the frame rails strong. Larry notch his frame rails for his side pipes. Check the bottom of this page. You can find some pictures of the side pipes. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2079260/8 Goodluck Vinh

Zcarnut, How long is the spline at the outter end of the center shaft? If the spline section is long enough then I can cut it 3/4" and machine the end to put the C-clip back on to hold the tripod. Is that how it is designed for the 280ZX CVs?

Brian, Take your time don't give up just yet. I am sure we can figure something out. I have 2 sets of CV half shafts so I will attempt to rebuild them with shorter center shafts. I need to collect more info. Can you send me some pictures of the shafts with everything apart? Thanks Vinh

Brian, Why not just take the center section to a machine shop and let them cut the 1 end and remachine it? Sound like a safer solution.