VinhZXT

Thank you for the response guys. I will check and replace rotor and caps. I think it's misfiring also. I notice that bank has all the spark plugs wires packed and pinched really tight along the engine and I couldn't even pull them up.

Hi all, This is not a Z but I figure I ask here. I have a Ford van with a V6 engine. It has 2 CATs. 1 for each bank of the 3 cylinders. The 1 CAT to 1 side of the bank is glowing red and the other one is normal. What is the problem with this car? I talked to another mechanic and he said the cylinders on that side has a misfire. What do you guys think? I check the spark plugs to that side and they are all firing good. Thanks for any info

That engine looks nice. Is that a new motor? if not what did you used to clean up the motor? Also what alternator did you used? I had the stock C5 alternator and I couldn't fit it any where. I searched around and found a small alternator from a Honda Accord which fits where the stock compressor location. Thanks for any info on the above questions and good luck with your project. PS. I can't wait until I am getting to where you are at.

I think 1/4" was too close too. I am moving the alternator to where the stock compressor used to be. I will be making an adjustable bracket for the alternator so that I don't have to use the belt tensioner. I should have just 1 short belt from alternator to crank pulley which should keep my engine nice and clean.

Thanks for the replies. I searched some more on Summitracing page and they do make some for the LS1 motor. I will be getting one very soon. When I run the electric pump I will not need the t-stat and it will be turning on by a tempt controller. I just shot 2 birds with 1 stone. The electric pump doesn't have any heater fittings coming out which I am trying to eliminate on my stock water pump. Also I should have more room below the water pump to put the alternator there. My engine should have 1 very short belt for the alternator and that's it.

Hi all, Have anyone used one of these electric water pump on an LS1?

I think I have about 1/4" on each side of the alternator.

Hi all, How much room should I have between my alternator and frame rail and strut tower? Thanks

Mikelly, I contacted Fikse before and they quoted me around $3200. So DRM marks up 300 more. But I do like those wheels. Sulio looks like you can put wider tires on the back.

can we get these wheels in the US? For that price I would get them in a heart beat. I've been looking at these wheels for a long time but they are too pricey $3500/set. http://www.dougrippie.com/drm/fikse_wheel.htm

Ok Where did you get these rims?

Heavy85, I got the 100lbs. one from harbor freight for $180 or so. I also got a band saw from HB which was very useful when it comes to custom make stuffs.

Dale, My project is a 77 280Z. The 79 is done lol. I am also want to make it to go over the radiator top support. Yes I understand that the top radiator support doesn't do much support there. I will add a triangle strut brace as soon as I put on the Cobra front clip so I can remove the top radiator support without worry. I see that the stock C5 had the radiator mount slanted and that's how the intake duct can go over it. I will give it some more thought. LS1Z, Thanks for the pix. I have it saved on my computer awhile back for reference. You are correct that the stock C5 duct looks a little restrictive. However it does looks alot better than the JTR rubber duct IMO. Plus everything is just plug in. I will give it some more thought when I receive the aluminum radiator from Summit. I might have to end up cutting out the whole front top radiator support and build another support depends on how I want the radiator to lay or sit. Thanks for the replies guys. If you have any more ideas please keep them coming.

Thanks for the replies guys.. Gun metal sounds like a good color but I will give it some more thought on the colors. I will put clear on it as well. I will leave the aluminum fins on the LSD alone though for heat transfer. Thanks again Vinh PS. I love the sand blaster BTW. That's the next best things I bought after the band saw lol

Hey guys, I have a problem with the air duct for my LS1 Z project. Please take a look at these pictures and give me your honest opinion. Please scroll down the 4 pictures near the bottom of the page. Thanks http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2079260/2

Hi all, I've just sand blasted my LSD and it looks really clean but do I need to paint it to protect it from getting dirty easily and aid in cleaning in the future? I will start to sand blast all other suspension parts too and same question for them too. Thanks for any advice. Vinh

I would like to see you go with the LS1 swap because of the potentials of the motor and plus noone has done it. I also suggest you to make your own mounts. The ZX's crossmember is sitting a little further back compare to the Z's crossmember. This will basically allow your engine mounts sit right over the ZX's crossmember. This should be really easy to custom make the mounts. Good luck

That's why you should always fuse everything coming off the positive lead of the batery. I have a 100 amp fuse from the positive batery and then everything running off after the fuse.

Rewiring sometimes is a lot easier if your car electrical system is simple. I am going thru the whole wiring system for my LS1 swap right now. Cutting out unused stuffs and have to make sure the car will start up. Add to the complexity that I am using the Vette's stock instrument cluster so I have to watch out what I cut. The bottome line is you still need to know how something works in order to rewire it. If you already know how it works then why rewire it? That's what you have to ask yourself.. Good luck

oops... I meant the rear of the transmission not the rear differential. Thanks for the correction.

Here it is http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=100553 Sorry I was using another handle that time.

Everyone got their own ways of doing this but here is what I did to mine. I make several measurements of the stock driveline at various points: 1. From the center of the crankshaft to the frame rails and center of crankshaft to the top of the frame rails.2. From the driveshaft to the top of the tunnel and sides of the tunnel at various points along the driveshaft. This is because you don't know how long the newer driveline will be. Then when you put the new driveline in and try to get it to stay parallel to the old driveline as possible (horizontal and vertical). On my LS1 I got it dead on with the old driveline (on the horizontal plane). Since the crankshaft of the V8 is sitting lower (1 1/4") than the stock crank (L6) I will have to lower the rear the same amount. I have the same part car here with the stock driveline in it and that helps alot. I posted a question about this awhile back so do a search. Good luck

It will weight 2670 with me in it? hehe . I've been wanting to weight my toplessz also and don't know where to go

Bradman, His car is a turbo. The little round thing next to the coil is called the transistor. It sometimes goes bad and can cause the same problem. However I have experienced this problem personally with my turbo ZX so I know. it's the CAS. GL

I can't believe this.. Your problem is the crank angle sensor inside your distributor. I can bet you anything. Just get another distributor and that's should fix your problem. GL