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VinhZXT

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Everything posted by VinhZXT

  1. I didn't know this is a 2 pieces pan. The one I used is the same thing but from a 98 model and it's a one piece. I had to cut the wings and cap them to work in the Z. With the wings you will have no room to run the exhaust. Also I don't think you can cap the 2 pieces pan. GL
  2. The SS input shafts are different than the 280ZXT input shafts. If you use the 280ZXT half shafts then it becomes an open rear instead. Also the 280zxt half shafts won't snap into the SS differential. If I am not mistaken.
  3. Just like the title says. If so how did you address the half shafts problem.. This is a VLSD from an SS 300ZXT BTW. I remember someone put a VLSD from a 240SX into a ZX before but I don't know is there any different between the 300ZXT SS model and the 240SX VLSD. Thanks
  4. John, You got some skills with the camera for real. Please come over and take some pictures of my Red/Black AE and my convertible for me. Thanks. Vinh
  5. This was how I started out. Hopefully they get better on the next one. I gotta give them both credit for trying.
  6. open up the driver side kick panel and push on the middle connector on the ECU.
  7. I thought he knew none of the stock exhaust manifold will be bolt into a Z without modifications. This is why every body used the JTR headers or custom make their own.
  8. 97-98 C5 headers can be easily modified to fit. Check my web site out for pictures.
  9. Your best bet is to get a 280ZXT and put it on a diet. Put race gas in and run higher boost. Much cheaper and simpler solution than an S30. I had done this experiment before with a 280zxt and I ran low 13's with just a Starion IC and running 13lbs of boost with some race gas. Here it is http://vvu.tripod.com/racez/
  10. Machoir,

    All I can say is get the car to relearn the idle and the fuel trims. I don't have the procedure on top of my head. I will look up the manual tonight when I get home. If you ran out of idea try put in a new crank angle sensor. Again I don't have my manual here with me but I remember the misfires can be related to the crank rotation. GL.

  11. Vinh, I found a cracked spark plug which seems to have caused a lot of the problems. I still get a PO302 code but not a multiple misfire anymore and it runs a lot better. It doesn't seem to misfire on the gas anymore, but coming off the throttle. I am going to swap coils around to see if the #2 coil is not working right. Anything else I should check? I want to get it tuned but don't have that kind of $ to spend on it right now.

  12. You can be fancy all you want but if you are not planning to adjust the FP then why bother installing one. The C5 fuel filter/regulator is price at $50 vs. the adjustable one at $150. You do the math.
  13. That's not the answer he was looking for. Thanks for the picture. I can make something like that for mine. The only problem I see is where is the MAF? Maybe he used speed density in his program and eliminated the MAF. Also what type of filter will fit in that air intake duct? I believe Bart did something similar with his LT1. Maybe he can give you the answer you are looking for. GL
  14. wow that is super cheap. I wish I have found them 3 years ago. The fans alone are $150 or more new.
  15. Guy, Very nice. I would put 2 strips on each side to fill up that line under the headlight bucket. That way it can be seen cleary from the side and it filled up the black void there too. GL. V.
  16. Tony, You are correct. Don't use the rear end as your guide. On my swap (77 280Z) I measured the stock driveline to various points of the body before I remove it. To be exact, the center of the crank is 3/4" offset to the right side (US passenger) and 3/4" above the frame rails. Now for the tail end. From the hand brake shaft to the bottom of the driveshaft is 3 3/4". On the right (US passenger) side of the tunnel there is a bulge area. From there to the right side of the driveshaft is 1". I put my driveline as close as possible to these measurements and it seems like the rear end is crooked and angled down at the back. I attempted to use the laser as well but before you use make sure the laser is centered. I bought a few laser points and put them in a tube and spin them and they draw a circle on my wall instead of a dot. GL V.
  17. For the idle, the turbo car is famous for this problem when the vacuum modulator or the vacuum pump is not working properly. The vacuum modulator is what controls the idle along with your cold idle. Check to see your vacuum pump is working then open up the vacuum modulator to check for the rubber check valves inside. For the oil leak check for some easy stuff first. Check to make sure you have a good valve cover gasket and the valve cover bolts are tight. GL
  18. It is much easier to readjust the glass instead of the door. There is a glass regulator inside the door. You can adjust it to allow the glass to go up a little bit more. You can also adjust the angle of the glass also. Open the door panel and you should there are 4 bolts holding the rails for the glass. You can adjust these 4 bolts to get the glass to fit under the seal nicely and it should fix the leaking issues. For the car with the T-tops most of the water comes in at the front and back of the openning of the T-tops. These are the areas that the seal dried up and therefore you will need new seal for fix it. GL.
  19. Do you have an R180 or R200? If it's an R180 then it's definitely different. The T5 has the turbo flange on the differential. If you have an R200 you can swap the flange.
  20. All you have to do is search on here and you will find plenty of info to fix both of your electrical problems. You don't need a new harness. Here is a little tips for you: check the big black connectors on the passenger side transmission tunel for corrosion. Clean it real good and this should solve your flasher/signal gremlin. You can do a search for the headlight dim problem. GL
  21. Don't need to look. The input shafts are different.
  22. Chris,

    My only suggestion is to swap out the distributor with a known working one. From my experience this is the first thing you should check. Also check the wirings to the distributor. GL.

  23. Vin,

     

    Chris here, Adams friend, New harness worked out much better. Thank you for helping out. We hooked it all up, car started. Then we nicely connected all the wires with connectors and even tested continuity. We now have no spark. All other systems are working correctly. Power to ECU, checked dizzy (Pulled out and spun, injectors clicked) I've been working on these for years and am stumped. Any thoughts?

     

    C

  24. Yasin, How are you doing? You are trying to follow my foot step aren't you? I just got a red/black AE a few months back too. It has 37K and looks brand new so I couldn't resist. I have to find a nice day to take some more pictures of my car. Congrats on the new baby. V.
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