ZT-R
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Posts posted by ZT-R
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I am trying to find 2 rear inner lower control arm caps. i am removing the stock differential front mount and need these to hold up the control arms.
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dont let it fall of that damn chair ahahha, set stuff on the floor, cant fall off the floor..... unless you have more than one story
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i believe there is a plug under the rear turbo, not sure on the size. some say they dont have it but mine did
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i have that sandwich. make sure you get one of these
http://www.rawbrokerage.com/RB-Oil-Filter-Stud-Direct-to-Block-nissan-oilfilterstud.htm
i havent gotten around to my oil pressure sender but if it is 1/8npt (not sure but i would assume it is, but assumptions get me in trouble) you could use this
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i think i will cut it and reweld it just to keep things clean
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what did you do, just cut the flange off straight, then section out like an inch and then weld the flange back on? do you have pics of your cars grill with the intercooler behind it? i am trying to figure out if i want to mount my intercooler as far forward as i can or back in the back like you have it.
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Here is some progress pics...
Polished the center cover, welded 12an bungs on valve covers (not pictured), welded -10an bung on the bottom of the intake manifold for the air regulator, bead blasted steering rack, rebuilt with new rods and boots, installed the ACZ lower control arms i had on my tube chassis 280z, ran all the plumbing, bent the front oil drain lines so they would fit, and so much more i cant even type now im so tried
... next up fuel lines, and modify this intake manifold so it will clear the fender. i could wack it with a hammer one time on the fender but i think i will take a band saw and cut the manifold 1/2 way though and bend it out then weld it up. -
that is the dumbest thing i have ever seen on this forum. 1st buy a Z, then buy a rb, then worry about a twins and a super charger... if you drive the car with the factory rb26 you will soon realize you have bigger issues than a lack of power. and its "roots style"
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what in the sam hell kind of thread is this on the rb26 intake air temp sensor? it will only tighten up on a 1/4 npt at the head so i dont think that is it. plus my plugs that are 1/4 will not fit into the oem manifold. i need to weld a bung on my manifold for this....
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no rest for the weary derek
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yes i am, please pm me
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found what i needed at rawbrokerage.
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crap, i got my greddy one in today but the fitting has female threads and the "nipple" that screws into the block and the other end of the factory oil cooler slides onto is not threaded
like this
what thread size is this that screws into the block, i took it out. 8an threads seem to hold it on pretty tight so i guess i could get a male to male union....
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you should cut the flange off a rb25 and take it to a machinist and let them cnc some replicas with the gasket grove and make them thick, that would be top notch
not knocking anything, just like to always improve on things, then again thats $... are you having the flanges milled/shaved after welding? -
hey guys, r33 rb26.... on the white connector that is "unused" i see that 2 wires are running back to the ecu. its pin 56 (Throttle sensor output signal red/yellow) and pin 30 (Sensor Ground (throttle sensor / engine temp sensor) which is black/ blue stripe). what do these do? can i completly cut this "dash harness (white)" out and remove all the wires?
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for the water return, the only thing i can think of is flow with the thermostat open and close. so maybe i do have to run it in a Tee off the back port as well?
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I need an IAC/AAC for a rb26. i have a solenoid so that isnt manditory.
its the piece that is on the intake manifold here
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yea i think i was having a brain fart when i posted that. haha
sorting out the vac and water lines now... have some questions if anyone is actually looking at this... I plan on running AEM EMS, but would like to get it running on the stock setup first. i do not have the stock MAF so i am going to try and just get it idling without them on OEM ECU... hopefully run MAP with the ems... all of this is contingent on this damn economy though...
Again i am not using the stock oil cooler, i have one in my custom radiator. i have a greddy take off w/ thermostat for that.
Thanks in advance for any insight.
Lee
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sorting out the vac and water lines now... have some questions if anyone is actually looking at this... I plan on running AEM EMS, but would like to get it running on the stock setup first. i do not have the stock MAF so i am going to try and just get it idling without them on OEM ECU... hopefully run MAP with the ems... all of this is contingent on this damn economy though...
Again i am not using the stock oil cooler, i have one in my custom radiator. i have a greddy take off w/ thermostat for that.
Thanks in advance for any insight.
Lee
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well i was going to drop it in this weekend but i went to bolt up the oil pan only to find out the rear main seal retainer had threads that were stripped... ehhhh brand new rear main seal in there too...damn...anyway parts will be here monday.... had to take off the trans, clutch, flywheel and all that crap...damn..... oh well
i guess this is the 1st hickup so i guess i cant complain, i am sure there were be more to follow...heres a pic of the GT coolant mod...
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for 28k it better vacuum your house and @#$%% your @#@()!* ya know
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like this
... next up fuel lines, and modify this intake manifold so it will clear the fender. i could wack it with a hammer one time on the fender but i think i will take a band saw and cut the manifold 1/2 way though and bend it out then weld it up.
not knocking anything, just like to always improve on things, then again thats $... are you having the flanges milled/shaved after welding?
i guess this is the 1st hickup so i guess i cant complain, i am sure there were be more to follow...
RB26 Fuel System suggestions
in Nissan RB Forum
Posted
is 16 gauge aluminum thick enough to make a surge tank out of? I am thinking of building one to house my 2 pumps inside the surge tank and "mold" it to the shape of the fender well.