well my main concern is the frame is bent and they are afraid to pull it... i told them to pull it anyway... i was thinking about getting some frame rails and then welding in some square tubing inside of the rails... just ad more support for a high tq. motor.
what u think?? and yes i will do sub frame connectors at the same time
i was took my car that had very light front end damage to a good body shop here in town to have the frame checked for alignment. they came back and said they are afraid to pull it as far as it needs to go because they dont wanna pull the car in half. he is advising new frame rails. my main question is how am i supposed to get the car where it needs to be in order to weld in the frame rails in the right location? i printed the 240z dimensions sticky will that be the same on my 280z?
its going to be a rb26 once i get the frame taken care of. my main consern is the engine rails i can easly make subframe connectors out of 1x3 steel.
any thoughts? should i tell them to pull the bastard to where it needs to be? the rest of the car has no rust at all.
floor pans and all are awsome shape....
i know i hate to post here like this guys, but i have been looking for months for a drivers side fender that isnt rusted to crap for my 280z. ive been told to stay away from crap aftermarket ones...anyone know of a place around Southern South Carolina....beaufort is were i am...
From my reading i hear that the 95-96 J30 differental should have the 6 bolt output flanges and has a 3.9xxx gear in it. i would like to know if anyone has done this swap yet.. would the parts from MM also fit it?
do u think it would hold 600whp rb26?
can you guys give a ballpark price range.... if its in the ballpark of 900 ill know not to wait up... ive been needing a hood ever since i bought my z so i can insure it an drive it, please let me know if you can, thanks
wouldnt i need to run it from the TC rod mounting place all the way to to the rear where the oem one stops, turn up and go up and tie into the oem bar that the diff bolts up to.... basicly its like straight up from the center of the wheel well. i saw a few that just turned up about 8 inches after the oem one ends, i dont see how that would really do much good.
also i am going to take the car to a frame shop, the engine is in the car, its the L28 and im gonna put a rb26 in it. it would be best to make sure everythings straight and good with the engine in the car then weld up some frame connectors right??
ahhh man, u got a nice R230 setup there, want to weld me up a brace like that, i have my 230 sitting here, never have time... can you try to get better pics of the rails, i can really see where they terminate
i have a 280z that has no rust on it at all, i need to do sub frame connectors for the rb26 swap. i really dont want to cut out the floor as there is no need to, but how do i go about doing sub frame connectors, can i just weld it to right up against the oem one and stich weld that to the floor pans??
what year is yours... if it matters i guess.... i have a manual assembly minus the clutch and brake petal..... that being the box thing but man i tell you it will be a pain in the butt if u dont remove the das and stuff. i just swapped the petals and its great but i have a a 280z as well.... waiting to sell my turbo prelude for the r33 rb26
i got the entire assembly on ebay for 12 dollars, but u only need the clutch petal and bolt and spring. really u can use the auto brake petal and just cut the footpad some so u dont have to get both petals. the bolt is the same as the brake one. and good news, u dont have to cut the firewall for the clutch master cylinder, just unbolt the cover. heheh im doing the same thing.