Search the Community
Showing results for tags '1982'.
Found 7 results
-
So I found an '82 280zx in beautiful condition for having sat out in snow, rain, sleet, hail, sun, etc. for almost 12 years. I contacted the owner and he told me he had no plans of restoring it and will give it to me for $1500. There's almost no surface rust and the engine still runs after all this time. I am planning on completely restoring it then in the future modding it as I make it through college and stuff. There is a slight misfiring issue whenever it starts, but the owner says he thinks it's spark plugs, but to be safe i'm replacing the spark plugs, ignition coil, fuel filter, oil filter, and ignition distributor rotor to get it running smoother. The driver side seat cover is torn, so I will also be getting new seat covers and also probably a dash cap since the old one has cracks all over it. I will then use that to learn manual (I know I'm a disappointment, I've wanted to learn for so long, just never had the chance to). I will post some pics of the car so you all can see the current condition and give updates as I find out more. The plan is to have the car in 2 months, then get it back running within that month, then drive it for a week or so to learn stick then I will set it in the garage and start the internal restoration. If anyone has any recommendations or if you find anything in the images, feedback would be very appreciated.
-
Ok, So I need some help with wiring. I am swaping a 1981 l28et into a 1976 280z I recently just found out that the wiring harness and ECU that I have is from an 1982; after checking the serial # on the computer and noticing that the wiring harness did not have a hook up for the dropping resistors. I have been having difficulty understanding the wiring diagrams for both the 1981/2 harness and the 1976 harness. I have been using the Bumble Z ( wiring torutrial as a reference but I am still confused. Most of what I have figured out is quite simple: the injectors, CAS, other sensors, but thats about it. Problems 1. The Coil and Ignitor This is my original coil. What can I remove from this harness what should I keep? This is my "new" coil I do not have the part of the harness that plugs into it but I have firgured out a way to make a plug for it I just need to know what goes to what. The pins on the ignitor are shaped like a T (a Black w/ whit wire and a Blue wire run to the ignitor from the coil) I cant figure what I should wire to this But I am pretty sure it has to do with the computers spark control. 2. Fuseable Links I have both fuseable links right now for the old engine and the "new" In this picture I have them mounted next to each other. I understand from the Bumble Z tutorial the only wires I need are the green a brown wire on the "new" harness. I am a little uneasy about removing or cutting any of the wires that lead to the existing fusable links. (Do I need this to run my lights or fuel pump?) 3. Ignition Harness This was pluged into what I belive is the ignition harness of the "new" ECU and the back end of this plug should somehow run to the ignitor/coil. In the bumble z tutorial he had a 6 prong plug, his one has 8. 4. Switched Power In the tutorial there are a lot of things that need to be run to switched power what should I use? I think I have firgured out that the black w/ white wire that runs to the coil should be switched power but im not really sure. I will really apreciate some input please dont tell me to search more, maybe at least point me in the right direction. I live in the Seattle area but my car is in lakewood (hour south of seattle). If there are any wiring gurus that can help me I would more than greatfull. Also I am a college student at Seattle University studying photography. i am willing to trade som automotive photography services for help with the wirring. Side Note: I am really losing morale I already have had one of the turbo engines I was working on stolen that I bought for $1000, wich is a lot of money to a college student. Thanks for all the help!!!
-
I've searched what seems like every website and forum looking for the model #s for the gears in the fs5w71b tranny with no luck. I've found some exploded diagrams but even those don't have any identifying numbers. Anyone able to help me with this? TIA
-
Hello, I am located in Greensboro NC and I am looking for several specific things for my 1971 Z. 81-83 l28ET with p-90 head, ecu, and wiring harness. If you have aftermarket ECU that's ok. (But must come with engine.) 77-79 5 speed manual trans. I am willing to travel up to 4 hrs to pick up parts, if you are further than that I will consider but would also like you to consider meeting me at the 4 hour mark. PM me with what you have and the price you are looking for and I will PM you back with an answer and contact information if it sounds good to me. I check my PMs regularly everyday so feel free to drop a line. I have my whole project planned out and recorded in an excel spreadsheet, and already have the funds set aside, so please consider PMing me as I have been waiting a while to start on this project. Regards, Jonathan
-
bought this 1982 280zx with Kaminari Wide Body kit...
Xerxixez posted a topic in S130 Series - 280ZX
Bought this car recently... was wondering if anyone knew what it would take to replace or fix the Kaminari Wide Body Kit thats on it... kinda new to body work... but i can do mechanics great... never heard of Kaminari till i bought this car... so i have no idea what its even worth... if anyone can help me out that would be great...!!!! I love this car... not my first 280 nor my first datsun... but first car ever with a body kit lol... would love to be able to restore this beauty....
-
Hi guys! I'm new on here and to cars but hopefully I'll catch on quickly. I originally bought my 280zx to convert it into a 1962 Ferrari 250 GTO but have recently scrapped the idea because I have neither the money nor the knowledge to do such a dramatic transformation. Now its just being turned into a car to take to the drag strip, which hopefully doesnt make too many of you cringe in horror but it's better to wreck a $1000 dollar car than one thats worth at least 8 to 10 right? There is a lot more rust on it than I thought there was. The previous owner had it for a year and left it outside and the guy before him had it sitting in his garage for 5 years. If nothing else it will be a good learner car. As far as i can tell its all stock, manual and not the turbo version though id like to put one on one day. As for damage so far, somebody tried to steal the front bumper (when it was in that guys garage) which ruined the air dam cause the tossers didnt know about the 2 bolts connected to the fenders which are damaged too. Rust every where im finding out, hole rotted under passenger seat, rust bubbling up around the top of the windshield, the usual rusted on nuts and bolts (better get a dozen cans of WD40) and a mouse nest on top of the engine. Its just a track car but I want the little lady to look respectable, though I bet that will be a challenge going to a drag track with a mostly stock Datsun. I'm there to have fun and go down the track not beat anyone, though that would be a bonus. The plan is to keep most of it stock since im on a pretty strict budget because i would like to attend an auto mechanics school in the fall. She's already undergoing severe diet surgery since that is one of the few things im capable of doing on my own. My roommate is a mechanic and he told me the first thing i need to do is get a race brake booster which will be priced out today, and if its affordable enough, purchased. I'll worry about the rollcage later because its not going to break the 12 second barrier let alone the 10 second. Unfortunately its not run yet because there is no battery which will also change today. Still have to drain the several year old gas as well. Can anyone tell me how to get rid of all the vacuum lines for the fuel injection system? Id like to minimize the amount of stuff in the engine bay. Also is there a better, inexpensive ecu I could put in it just to limit things and make it more effective? Hope to hear from you guys. Pics to follow. Thomas
-
Hi guys! I'm new on here and to cars but hopefully I'll catch on quickly. I originally bought my 280zx to convert it into a 1962 Ferrari 250 GTO but have recently scrapped the idea because I have neither the money nor the knowledge to do such a dramatic transformation. Now its just being turned into a car to take to the drag strip, which hopefully doesnt make too many of you cringe in horror but it's better to wreck a $1000 dollar car than one thats worth at least 8 to 10 right? There is a lot more rust on it than I thought there was. The previous owner had it for a year and left it outside and the guy before him had it sitting in his garage for 5 years. If nothing else it will be a good learner car. As far as i can tell its all stock, manual and not the turbo version though id like to put one on one day. As for damage so far, somebody tried to steal the front bumper (when it was in that guys garage) which ruined the air dam cause the tossers didnt know about the 2 bolts connected to the fenders which are damaged too. Rust every where im finding out, hole rotted under passenger seat, rust bubbling up around the top of the windshield, the usual rusted on nuts and bolts (better get a dozen cans of WD40) and a mouse nest on top of the engine. Its just a track car but I want the little lady to look respectable, though I bet that will be a challenge going to a drag track with a mostly stock Datsun. I'm there to have fun and go down the track not beat anyone, though that would be a bonus. The plan is to keep most of it stock since im on a pretty strict budget because i would like to attend an auto mechanics school in the fall. She's already undergoing severe diet surgery since that is one of the few things im capable of doing on my own. My roommate is a mechanic and he told me the first thing i need to do is get a race brake booster which will be priced out today, and if its affordable enough, purchased. I'll worry about the rollcage later because its not going to break the 12 second barrier let alone the 10 second. Unfortunately its not run yet because there is no battery which will also change today. Still have to drain the several year old gas as well. Can anyone tell me how to get rid of all the vacuum lines for the fuel injection system? Id like to minimize the amount of stuff in the engine bay. Also is there a better, inexpensive ecu I could put in it just to limit things and make it more effective? Hope to hear from you guys. Pics to follow. Thomas
