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Showing results for tags '1983'.
Found 8 results
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Quick update for anyone wondering about these seats I have a 1983 280ZX and I threw in some corbeau GTS II seats with shaved bases and a corbeau dual locking slider on the driverside and a single locking slider, on the passenger side. and corbeau bolt in seat brackets. I'm 6 foot tall but have a 30" inseam so you can imagine my torso is a bit taller than normal. Anyways they sat higher than stock and I ran out of head room and had to drive kind of slouched with the T-Top sunshade removed. To fix the passenger side I removed the sliding rail and bolted the bracket straight to the seat, reinstalled and I now have plenty of room, even with the sunshade installed. I will be doing to the same to the driverside. But removing the slider makes it difficult to install the rear-outer bolt but its doable especially if you have small arms. Other than that, great seats that work with with my 2" 4pt harnesses.
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Just bought the FAST EZ-EFI kit from Z Car Depot for my 1983 280zx. Put it on my car the other day and it runs worse than it ever has. Car will idle but is very hard to start and really rough when it's running. Using any more than 1/4 throttle will stall the engine. When I am able to rev the engine it's terribly rough. Feels like or an ignition timing issue. I know that when I removed the old EFI harness I disconnected a connector going into the distributor and the new harness did not have a connection to plug back in to the dizzy. Since adding the EZ EFI, ignition timing has retarded itself about 10 degrees at idle. Advancing timing does not help the issue. I have setup the ECU with all the correct parameters listed with the info from zcardepot. ECU doesn't throw any codes, all readings seem mostly normal for not being tuned. It feels like it could be a vacuum leak or vacuum not hooked up correctly as well however my vacuum readings are perfectly normal. Has anyone else has this issue? I will add pictures of the engine in it's current state along with the connections that were left unplugged when adding the EZ EFi kit, Including the oil temp sensor. Does this stuff really get left unplugged?
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Hello Hybridz. I am back with another 1983 280zx turbo 5speed. You may remember me from http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/109641-1982-280zxt-log/ . I have been distant from the topic because after getting it fully back to stock, it got totaled Luckily no one was hurt and I was fully covered under my insurance. The insurance company was able to get me this I been working on getting this thing running smooth stock. Then after that Ill start adding more power. Overall this was a great start. Some things needed to be worked on asap. The clutch was getting pretty old when I first got the car and it recently gave. I am modernizing the engine as I replace and refresh the car. So far these have been added: Exhaust 3in SS Mandrel Bend Walker Exhaust 15034 MagnaFlow Performance Mufflers 14419 LC1 Wideband and Autotimer Gauge (soon) Brakes Centric Slotted Rotors Centric Calipers New Brake Master Cylinder New Brake Booster Stainless Steel Brake Lines Porterfield R4 AP229 AP230 pads Ignition NGK 4291 Spark Plugs NGK 8mm Wires Transmission Exedy Stage 1 Organic Racing Clutch Kit Fidanza 10.5lb Flywheel Felpro Rear Main Bearing Set New Clutch Master/Slave Cylinder New O2 Sensor New PCV Valve New Fuel Filter (Soon) I am have issues smogging the car (Like every other Z out there). Even with all this stuff, the smog is off by a little. Idle speed and High Speed CO is about 3.5%, and it has to less than 1.29% Hydro Carbons are at 408, and they have to be less than 220. I put the timing at 24degrees. I'm going to push to back to 20. I have an old ECCS analyzer and it showed injector 3 not firing. I can hear it ticking, but its off. So I plan to change all the injectors out. With these the fuel rail will be swapped for a Pallnet rail, the fuel pump for a Walbro255lph, new connectors will be put in, and a new fpr. Now have two questions for injector sizing. I want to use o-ring style injectors for the new rail, but I am still using the stock ecu. Can the stock ecu run around 300cc? I have looked online and got mixed answers. What o-ring injectors would run with stock ecu? What kind of fuel pressure regulator would I run with those injectors? I plan to log more often and with more pictures. Upcoming New injectors Pallnet Fuel Rail 11mm Walboro 255 Fuel Pump Inline fuel filter Fram G3
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So about a week ago my car started to have issues when it got up to temp. It would originally start, idle, and run fine, but after the car began to get warm it would lean out like crazy (have a wideband installed) and there would be no response when throttle was applied under load. It did this for a few days until it decided to completely die on my way home from the gym. After a few minutes the car would start and idle lean on the side of the road, but then die immediately with any throttle (not under load). The engine is from a 1983 280zx turbo. After a little bit of research I'm wondering if it is my Crank Angle Sensor in my distributor, but I'm still very confused. I don't think it's a wet Throttle Position Sensor because I had that problem recently and I removed it/dried it out and the car ran fine. Also the symptoms are different due to not even idling rather than failing at 2000rpm. Short video with symptoms: https://streamable.com/nn9ls -
Hello Today I will be posting about my project that I am currently working on at the moment. The car is a 1983 280zx Turbo, I will be attempting to put a engine from a 1985 302 ford mustang 5.0L & transmission in the Z, The engine is upgraded with a Holley 850 double pumper & I also am going to try to save the turbo off the 280zx engine and adapt it with a mod if I can maybe upgrade it so it has better airflow? A few rough steps that ill be working on will be consistent of : 1. Rebuilding my 302 engine with a kit I found. 2. Rebuilding my transmission with another kit I found. 3. Gutting a ripping out everything in the engine bay that I don't need. 4. removing old transmission. 5. removing old electric fuel pump 6. Removing old exhaust system & replace single with double (Not sure where to get it from tho) 7. Installing new fuel pump & regulator 8. Figuring out where the mounts need to go to hold the transmission 9. welding new mounts for transmission 10. Figuring out where the mounts need to go to hold the V8 engine 11. welding the new mounts on for the engine 12. Replace old shocks with new ones (Before the heavy engine & transmission is mounted) 13. replacing old brake pads with new ones 14. Sanding down body and engine bay (Getting it ready for new paint job) 15. Painting the body with a new paint job 16. removing & Installing new ECU that will control the 302 17. Installing rebuilt Transmission and bolting to new welded mounts 18. Lowering V8 302 engine into the car and bolting it into place to newly welded engine mounts 19. reconnect ecu and other wires needed 20. connect the new fuel line 21. connecting the ignition "Please feel free to comment what I might need to add to my to do list to complete my project " Links to Items I will be using: 302 Engine Rebuild Kit: http://www.summitrac...WxWIaAiyg8P8HAQ Transmission Rebuild Kit: http://www.latemodel...zD6JxoCCCDw_wcB Turbo: The 280ZX turbo is a T-3 so I can upgrade it ECU: http://www.automotix...AuecaAmCA8P8HAQ Fuel Injector Kit: http://www.buyautopa..._vuUaAkYJ8P8HAQ Fuel Pump: http://www.summitrac...ts/hly-12-801-1 Fuel regulator: http://www.protuning...&id=56128534817 Shocks: http://www.ebay.com/...eb6e542&vxp=mtr Brakes: http://www.cquence.n...OhAYaAqef8P8HAQ Clutch: The 280zx has a stage 3 clutch and i'm not sure if I can use it on the 302 but id like to. Electronic Distributor: http://www.americanm...entV1&year=1985 Alternator: http://www.americanm...ished-8793.html Any parts I may have missed please feel free to comment it, for any haters out there this is my first swap like this so please keep your hating comments to yourself, Thank you.
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So my 1983 280ZX 2+2 is having cold start issues. when i turn it on it idles up real high like 900-1000rpm and if i touch nothing after a few seconds the rpms drop and it stalls out. If i crank it and pump the gas it will stay on and not stall out but if i just floor the pedal instead of pumping it it will stall out also the is a quiet backfire that sounds like it comes from the engine area. The reason im calling this a cold star issue is because if i pump the gas long enough for the motor to warm up to running temp i can let go of the gas and it will idle fine at 800-900rpms it revs smooths and sounds good.
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Hello, I am located in Greensboro NC and I am looking for several specific things for my 1971 Z. 81-83 l28ET with p-90 head, ecu, and wiring harness. If you have aftermarket ECU that's ok. (But must come with engine.) 77-79 5 speed manual trans. I am willing to travel up to 4 hrs to pick up parts, if you are further than that I will consider but would also like you to consider meeting me at the 4 hour mark. PM me with what you have and the price you are looking for and I will PM you back with an answer and contact information if it sounds good to me. I check my PMs regularly everyday so feel free to drop a line. I have my whole project planned out and recorded in an excel spreadsheet, and already have the funds set aside, so please consider PMing me as I have been waiting a while to start on this project. Regards, Jonathan
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From the album: My Z Car
This is the first picture of my 280zxt that I took the night I brought it home. The car was literally ALL original with 161,611 miles on it. Bought it from the second owner who owned it from 05-11. He drove it to and from his job at NASA during the spring and kept it garaged the rest of the year. I bought the car for $2500 and have driven it daily for a year out of the two that I've owned it so far.
