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Showing results for tags 'WHEEL'.
Found 9 results
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We just started selling these CNC re-drilled rear stub axles. These rear stub axles come with a 5x114.3 and 4x114.3 bolt pattern. This will allow you to use 5 lug wheels on your S30. Many popular cars like the 240sx, 300zx and 350z have the 5x114.3 bolt pattern. You will need to get your own wheel studs. They are stock 27 spline 280Z stub axles with 280z companion flanges. They will work with any 240Z 260Z and 280Z axle. The 240z does not have the same spine count as the 280z but since these come with the companion flange they will bolt into your stock 240z axle. Price is $300 plus you send us your original stub axles and companion flanges as cores or $450 without cores TO ORDER GO TO OUR WEBSITE: http://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-240z/suspension/5-lug-hub-stub-axles-for-240z-260z-280z Let me know if you have any other questions.
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Hey all, bought a pair of wheels with some positive offset, so I got a set of 25mm wheel spacers all around to make them fit. I went with the pair listed at zcardepot: https://zcardepot.com/wheel-spacer-set-pair-1.html I was hoping this would "ensure" that they fit all around (since zcardepot specializes in z-cars) but alas, the fronts do not. On the front (stock) hub, it seems that rubber-ish (might just be gunk lol) piece sticking out doesn't clear the center bore of the spacer. I need about 1/8" more clearance. See the following pics. Should I have expected this? Is there just gunk build-up on my car that needs to be cleaned off? What is this rubber extension anyway? Am I screwed unless I get new hubs? FYI - the wheels themselves have 73.1mm inner bore (~2 7/8") and would likely fit on the hub if they were correct offset. I have to use a hub ring to properly center them on the spacer outer edge. Gap when fitted: The center bore appears to be machined out to compensate, but it is just a bit too narrow: OEM wheel has 2 7/8" inner bore: Spacer has 2 5/8" inner bore: -
As you have probably guessed by now, this is another wheel fitment question. Since my Z is completely torn apart, it is really difficult to take measurements. I am going to run TTT coilovers with TTT front and rear brake kit. I don't want to roll my fenders or add flares or any other modifications to the sheet metal. I'm not going to run any crazy negative camber as I've seen on some cars lately (I don't even want to use camber plates). I've seen some cool looking 8x15 -12et wheels which I plan to run on 205/50. It's the -12 that I'm worried about, i've read that it gets really tight against the fenders, especially on the front. I just want to make sure everything is ok before paying. It would suck buying rims, having them shipped all the way here only to have them shipped back (on my expense ) Any help would be great!
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Hi All! Looking for some wide tires for my 16" Gotti wheels that have just come back from powder coating. Ideally looking for something in the 255/45 - 265/45 range. Wider is better, not interested in anything below a 255. So long as they have tread and are in reasonable shape I am interested! No slicks or race tires please, I already have some of those! Please also be local to the Portland OR area or willing to ship! Thanks
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Hope someone can help, been strugling with this for awhile. I recently reassembled my rear stub axles in the strut housing (with the spacer that came out of it and new bearings), installed the companion flange and tighted the locking nut. I did an inital assembly and everything went together fairly well, but I found that by grabing the rear brake disk (AZC five lug conversion) there was very slight axial play, I would guess about 1-2 thousands. I tried to tighten the nut further and did so up to 250 ft lbs but this made no improvement. I have verified that the play is in the stub axle / wheel bearings and not in the suspension or shock to strut inerface. And I am seeing this on both rears not just one. Any thoughts or experience on this is appreciated. My car is a 1975 280Z. Thanks -Colin -
I have mounted 2 buttons on my steering wheel and am not sure the best way to connect with wire. I am thinking about using a coiled cable, as I have seen before, but I would prefer to use a 'spring clock', which is how most cars connect electrical to the steering wheel in a discrete way. I am worried that a coiled cable could get caught up on the steering column when I turn the wheel all the way to one side. The steering rack on a 72 240z should be 2.6 turns lock to lock, which mean a coiled cable would have to wrap 1.3 times around the steering column. What do you think?
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Hey guys, did a lot of searching and reading before posting but found mostly questions being answered by opinions so was wondering what you guys are running up front as far as tire width and sizes go and how you find the steering. I am in between keeping the stock rack and pinion out of the Z versus WRX power steering but I will be running a 235/17 tyre up front with the rb26 on my 280 and was wondering what I should expect as far as effort goes. I will be designing it as a dd but don't really expect to drive it more than a few times a week. I'm leaning towards the stock rack simply because I want to keep the feel genuine and not to mention it will just be easier in the first place.
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So I noticed an easy way to tell what orientation your chopper wheel is when you do the 300zx ecu swap. Notice the attached picture, how there is a circle punched in by the top piece? It competes the notched out space in the CAS, that indicates the top. The bottom doesn't have anything that could punch out a circle. Just a thought. (Yes, I know the pictured chopper wheel is a 280zx wheel, I just installed mine)
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Looking for a set of wheels to use for a chumpcar race. These are going to be mounted on an early 300ZX. We are doing a race at Road Atlanta on 2/9. So I will need them on or before 2/7. They don't have to be perfect. The cheaper the better. Please PM me or send a text to 4too3-6oh5-nine2seventwo Zack
