Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'rb20det'.
Found 9 results
-
Hey all so will give you a quick rundown so I have an rb20det, she starts occasionally idles for a few minutes then shuts off and refuses to start again, now I have go one wires, piping, put new cas sensor, new afm, new sparks, new fuelpump, new ecu, 02 sensor, new idle control vavle, i pulled the fuel filter off and bypassed it still nothing, puthave tried resetting the ecu, have no bloody luck with it at all, any info would be appreciated just trying to get the girl running, cheers heaps team, much appreciated
-
Hello everyone, long time lurker here. Initially had an 86’ 300zx N/A that I loved and adored, however I’ve sold it since I had to leave the US for a bit, and now I’ve bought a 1978 2+2 280z Automatic. Now, I’ve never done an engine swap. I’m familiar with engine maintenance, parts installation, and that’s really it. I’m interested in taking on the task of swapping the stock L28E engine and installing an RB20. I see several RB20s on EBay going for fairly affordable prices with the transmission. I’ve read that it’s simple, and that there’s an actual guide out there, however I can’t find it! I’m not craving amazing amounts of horsepower, I just want a car that I can drive somewhat reliably and have fun with. If I install the RB20, it would remain stock for sometime. What parts on the 280z would I need to upgrade, if any to support this engine and daily function of the vehicle? Tl;dr Rookie in over his head bought a 280z, wants to install RB20 that comes with a 5 Speed Transmission. Needs the guide, also wants to know that with the installation of this engine and wiring harness for it, what parts he needs to upgrade on the vehicle to reliably sustain this engine. Thanks!
-
Hey all! I am new to these forums, also new to Datsuns!! I am 20 years old, currently going to college and working two jobs, and working on my new baby in the meantime! About two months ago I bought a 1975 280z. It came from South Carolina, so I had to get it brought all the way up to Connecticut for me. I searched all around for a Z for about two months before that but had no luck finding any car that wasn't overrun by rust. The northeast is terrible! Alas, I found my car in South Carolina and just had to have it. It has some dents and some paint chips, a rusty passenger frame rail, and a damn sexy body! It ran pretty crappy when I first got it back but I was not too worried because I knew one of the first steps would be to engine swap! The car sat in the shop for the past month, took it out a couple times, replaced the headlights (previous owner gave me lots of spare parts ), but mostly did LOTS research on engines to swap into my new baby. I decided to swap in an rb20det. It seems like it fits my minor power goals, sounds pretty sick, and seems fairly within my mechanical expertise, with lots of help from my family . Yesterday, we started disconnecting and unscrewing, and draining, and more disconnecting, getting ready to pull the engine and doing as much as I could before I had to get to work. Today we are gonna pull the engine and tranny. After it's out, the frame rail is being replaced, just bought a replacement from BAD DOGS this morning, hoping to get it by the weekend! Any undercarriage rust is getting tended to along with that god-awful undercoating that seems to overtake the entirety of the underneath of my car. It is gonna get done up real nice within the next month, while I save a little more to purchase the actual rb20det engine. I already have researched and lined up the rear sump oil pan, walbro fuel pump, throttle cable, intercooler, downpipe that I have planned to purchase. Aftermarket exhaust manifold, and intake manifold will be replaced next summer, along with a turbo upgrade. but not worrying about that yet. I just wanna get this engine in and running! Now, I do have some questions regarding this engine swap maybe some of you all could help me with. Do you have any radiator suggestions? Any body have any good recommendations as to where to purchase the RB? Right now I am vigorously searching through eBay. Car is an automatic right now, swapping it to manual with the new RB, any pedal sets or advice at all that you recommend! ANY ADVICE OR INFO YOU WOULD JUST LIKE TO SHARE? Next summer, I am planning to do the bodywork, get some wide body fenders on my baby, fender mirrors, thick tires, a rear spoiler, racing seats, full harness, upgraded interior, gauges, dash and get a good paint job! This summer, my goal is to successfully swap the engine, and get my baby running nice and good. It is gonna be a busy summer! Along with my Datsun project, in my family's shop, we are in the finishing stages of a Factory Five 818C kit car, which looks SICK. It's running an ej207 engine, weighs just about 2100 pounds right now and is pulling about 400hp without a tune yet! It is scary fast but a lot of fun! We have a 69' camaro drag car always in and out of the shop, holding the 632 outlaw world speed records right now, and another 2002 camaro drag car getting finished up. My family is very excited to help me through this project and hopefully I can expand my mechanical mind through my Datsun project! I can't wait to keep you guys updated!! I post all the pictures and updates on an instagram page, specifically for my datsun. You can all checkout the progress and updates through there if you're interested! https://www.instagram.com/dirty_ddatsun/ Thanks for reading!! -Julia
-
Hi there i have looked a bit everyone and dont know quite whats wrong and how to get my speedo working. My dash cluster is new and 100% working. But still my speedo doesnt move i was told its due to having a rb20det tranny which uses a mechanical speedo while the cars rb25 requires an electrical speedo. I was told that by putting in a rb20e r33 speedo drive would resolve this . Im not too sure on how accurate this is and Id like any tips or ways to resolve the issue. Preferably not too expensive. Im sure many people have done this b4 looking for how to get the speedo working again . (NOTE : previous owners dropped the 20det gbox in , i was told its a small issue but more i looked into it after buying most mechanics have suggested putting in a rb25det bigbox, i dont see the need as the gbox is tight and strong and I am running no modes all stock factory 100,000kms. engine 60,000km tranny ) -
Background: Long story short, wasn't interested in cars until I got screwed over by a dealership replacing an alternator shortly after moving to Maine from Ireland. Found a '84 300zx for $300 on Craig's and proceeded to teach myself the dark arts of car wrenching, and consequently fell in love with Z cars/Group B/Rally/Hillclimbing Fast forward a few years, I picked up a 1970 240z with some track prep work done and it begun: Cars 1970 240z: 2.6l engine Mikuni ph44 carbs Battery relocate. MSD Ignition Rota Grids with Toyo Proxxes Put cosmetic (Flat Black paint), small amount of mechanical work (New clutch, relined tank, new Holley Red FP, FR, SS lines) and new shoes on the car to prep for the New England Hillclimb Association 2015 season. Work and life got the better of me and only got to one race. Car performed pretty good and the driver got a lot better over the weekend. Couple of issues raised their heads over the race weekend: Keeps popping out of second gear. Power-band not right. 1st, 2nd great to 6500rpm, go to 3rd and bogs down bad. Last two races, kept stalling in low rpm and overheating - I believe this was from running out of fuel and picking up something in the carb. Need a full roll cage if I keep racing it; wife and kids agree. The last bullet is how I happened upon the 280z. After pricing a cage and always being on the hunt for a deal I came across this 1976 280z in a wrecker yard in MA. Something caught my eye on the Craig's post - I had been lurking on Hybridz for many years and thought had seen the chassis before. Upon viewing it was indeed one of RB240zDET's builds. I was able to get the car and good price and figure the project would be worth my time. 1976 280z - as it stands: Tubular frame chassis. R33 rear subframe and R230 diff. RB20DET engine mated to GTS trans. Lexus SC400 front end. Probably a bunch more I have yet to document. Link to PO frame build thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/102035-rbs-builds/ Link to RB20DET PO: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/94498-just-a-few-pics-of-what-i-have-been-up-to/ Current Winter Plans: 1970 240z - Clutch fan delete./Install aluminum rad and dual fan setup. Find a 5-speed (Anyone got one?) More aggressive cam for hillclimb racing Carb rebuild New fuel cell and sender install. Go racing 1976 280z - Verify and finish engine wiring. Get engine to run or at least show some life. Pull said engine and trans. While deciding if to keep engine or not; fix some weld, blast frame and prime. Select engine. (Open to offers on the RB20DET if anyone is interested.) Build monster. Go racing. Garage - 100A Subpanel 5kw Heater. 40A circuit 208v for welder. A few 20A 110v circuits. Insulation Sheetrock Paint Some sort of shelving system for organization. Any comments, suggestions, critique is welcome. Seán
-
Hey everybody. I have picked up a rb20det engine for my 71 240z which currently has the stock l24. I've been researching and planning the swap for years but still unsure about the fuel system for my carb conversion to efi. I know I have to upgrade the lines with 3/8 size return/feed lines and add an inline walbro fuel pump. I understand that i have the following options correct me if I'm wrong: !. Modify stock 240z fuel tank with a sump. 2. Replace stock tank with a 280z tank. 3. Keep stock tank but add a surge tank in the system. Which is what you guys are currently running in your setups or recommend? This car will be a weekend street car with a hp goal of 300. PS. Will I need to modify my driveshaft? I been searching and searching for a while but still unsure thank you in advance!
-
Paypal ready. PM me! I'll buy them today!
-
Recently bought and installed rb20 from a gtst on a 260z. Everything on the engine is stock including the turbo. It has less than 52,000 miles on it and compression on all 6 cylinders were perfect. After going for my first "real drive" on the highway I started noticing a rattling sound. I just changed the oil after having it in for 2 weeks and it was all black and only had 3L left over. I expected the oil to be black from the carbon buildup from sitting around all these years. Why it burned the rest? Beats me at this point but im most concerned about this sound which I was hoping would disappear after the oil change. Anybody else experience this before? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zGGsbxbN6Hs&index=1&list=UUdH8WP3yCgmmuX9vE5lPOEQ
-
So, this is the beginning of a new transition. Making that move, from 11 years of honda, to a new chassis. i like Function/Form. i like driveability. Clean paint is always nice, but i dont want to worry about every little bump in the road. I am a machinist. i am a decent welder. sheet metal is all new to me. All that being said. I have a Fairlady. I traded a fun little acura integra for a legally registered 1975 Fairlady 2+2. Came with a few goodies, as pictures will show.
