duragg Posted November 30, 2011 Author Share Posted November 30, 2011 191.8 wheels with some work to do left. 2011 Dyno N240ZZ.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 Nice flat torque curve. The AFR's really get rich at 3500-do you feel that while driving? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted November 30, 2011 Author Share Posted November 30, 2011 Can't feel it, but you can taste it... Working on that next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 Nice looking torque curve, that car must be very fun to drive! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted November 30, 2011 Author Share Posted November 30, 2011 It is fun. Can't wait to ditch the open 3.345 for my 4.375LSD over the holidays. New difffy going to require 17" wheels and better springs too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted December 18, 2011 Author Share Posted December 18, 2011 The painful realization is begining to sink in that I need another 200hp... When showroom stock station wagons can make 600hp all day.. the world has gone f-d. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted December 18, 2011 Author Share Posted December 18, 2011 So whats next with a motor like this. Backed into a corner with 10.3C/R and 2818cc and a previous decision to use cast ITM 87mm pistons. Thoughts on: *) Replacing MSA 6-1 header and twice pipes with something more exotic would show gains? *) Replacing DCOE40s with 45s or Mikuni 44s flow more better? *) Cam seems to be doing its job? *) Next option is displacement with a tear-down and rebuild to 3.1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted December 18, 2011 Share Posted December 18, 2011 I need another 200hp... You should be thinking turbo or V8 swap... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted December 18, 2011 Share Posted December 18, 2011 (edited) Goal is a scrappy sounding old-school Ratty Z. Drivin about 3 times a month. So did you make your original goal or are you getting caught up in the HP wars? I'm trying not to get caught up in that chase because it never ends. I do want to learn and improve, but it's no use trying to keep up with modern technology-just out gunned. Do you think you got everything out of that motor? You talked about your cam being lame-did you go bigger? Not sure your exhaust change will make that big of difference. I'm planning on spending money at the dyno to try different things-timing, jetting, whatever. Were you able to get you cam on specs?? Just curious and following your build. Edited December 18, 2011 by madkaw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted December 18, 2011 Author Share Posted December 18, 2011 Goal is a scrappy sounding old-school Ratty Z. Drivin about 3 times a month. So did you make your original goal or are you getting caught up in the HP wars? Guilty. Ya, getting greedy now. I thought the cam was wimpy, but searching and reading now I think my 6800 peak is appropriate for cast pistons. In reality I shift around 7200 and maybe it is just fine. I have the sheet with the cam specs. But if I only had 250 at the wheels I promise I would be happy forever.. hahahah Built myself into a corner with compression ratio and the 4.375 diffy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted April 17, 2012 Author Share Posted April 17, 2012 I've been driving the Z a lot more lately. I swear this motor with MAYBE 500 miles on it now really seems to be "Coming in". Its throaty and a little flat under 3000. Growling mean from 3000-4000 and from 4000 to 7000 is just plain screaming. I need to find some guys here in Phoenix that can take me to Speedworld for some drag racing (Virgin). Would be delighted to get into the 13s with 200 rwhp and a stripped chassis. The eternal debate: Old school N/A Classic. Turbo six of some sort. LSx V8 When I see an LsX in a classic car I just think- Oh, a v8. When I see a turbo motor I see a lot of work and tuning, but tons of creativity and engineering and power available (which I don't trust myself with). The old school NA motor L6 motor on a cold night just has a sound that makes people look and give the Pretty fun to drive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 All those options are cool in their own right. And a 200whp L motor in a stripped S30 is NOTHING to scoff at and a fun little street car. It's funny how even a low 14 second car can put quite a few people to shame when driven right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 All those options are cool in their own right. And a 200whp L motor in a stripped S30 is NOTHING to scoff at and a fun little street car. It's funny how even a low 14 second car can put quite a few people to shame when driven right. I agree. I fell in love with the Zcars at an autocross -- a bright yellow 240Z, 3.1 liter, triple Mikunis and 6-1 header, that sound was the siren's song. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted May 30, 2012 Author Share Posted May 30, 2012 (edited) Started a pre-hibernation inspection today. Too darn hot to drive this thing in summer. Pulled plugs; Just don't think I could ask for better than this from Triple Webers. Pulled cover and the cam looks the same as when I installed. Valves were right where I left them last time. Finally decided on the last few things I want to do to the car. Pull motor, replace rear main seal that drips a tiny bit, Install Arizona Zcar superlight flywheel. FInd a Vo7 crank and do that whole diddy Get a really stupid cam like I wanted to begin with Fix that thing I will never admit to with the front pulley Get MS3 with GSXR750 ITBs running. Open tranny and have a heart to heart with my rebuild Fix D/S leak Get R/T front diffy mount and melt down that horrendous ArizonaZcar solid mount. 280z 27 spline stubs Coilovers with Tokico Adjustables. Toyota fronts / Maxima rears GroupBuy wheels painted flat black with 275 rear Chop and stab ZGs Carpet inside Wire hour meter Fix Wideband Wake up. Edited May 30, 2012 by duragg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z Greek Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 "Fix that thing I will never admit to with the front pulley" I did something to a front damper/pulley once that I will never admit, I wonder if it's the same thing?............ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted May 30, 2012 Author Share Posted May 30, 2012 I shall say that I did mark the pulley very well and it never moved so I left well enough alone. That little clinking noise was very disheartening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z Greek Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 Duragg, I was just reading the details of your engine under your post. I am currently putting together a similar engine. Same cam, flat tops set to .010 out of the hole, P79 shaved to 49cc (should yield about 9.6:1), SU carbs with SM needles, stock "match box" electronic distributor, 6/2/1 header. I have consulted with Peter at PMC engines quite a bit on this combo, what a nice guy! Your horsepower number is impressive. The engine I am replacing is bone stock, and put 139 to the ground on a brand new Dynojet 24, so I have a good baseline to go from, if I can find 25 more HP, I will be thrilled. I should have it together and in the car in 3 weeks or so, very anxious to see what kind of power difference I see. By the way, was it a single grove, MSA damper you did something to you will never admit? They fit damn tight, hard to tell if it's just tight, or if you're wadding up the woodruf key. Whoops, did I just say that out loud? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted May 30, 2012 Author Share Posted May 30, 2012 (edited) Yes those MSA dampers are tight. Not proud, but not moving either! I want think the Total Seal rings helped with the results. I wouldn't use any other rings personally. Although Joe and Donna, owners of Total Sea,l are good friends with their MFG facility next door to mine. The dyno I went on is supposedly not very generous either. You are making a good choice with your Compression ratio. I think mine is a bit high. But nothing to really base this on. Edited May 30, 2012 by duragg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted September 22, 2012 Author Share Posted September 22, 2012 On a few occasions I have had the motor lock up. While cranking to start it just Bang, stops turning. If I put in gear and rock the motor some it turns fine. Crank again and it locks. If I roll it more it cranks and runs with no funny noises. Certainly never stopped from a running position, just during cranking. Perhaps the end is near.. * Hydraulic lock from fuel filling a cylinder, boiling over from the DCOE? * Somthing rattling around in the crank area (... missing woodruff key... ) * Bad starter? * Somthing hanging at the starter / flywheel area. * Flywheel loose and about to spin out? Eventually it will reveal itself... Tj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted September 23, 2012 Share Posted September 23, 2012 I personally would start at the starter. I've seen plenty of starters go bad, all with varying degrees of behavior. It's also a cheap place to start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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