RebekahsZ Posted May 28, 2011 Share Posted May 28, 2011 (edited) Here are some pictures of the hydraulic handbrake system I'm building. The red line connects a remote reservoir to the master cylinder. The proportion valve is not part of the hydraulic hand brake system, the red line just passes under it along its route. The proportion valve is for the standard foot brake system. The remote reservoir is needed for seat clearance. Someday I will find a straight handle instead of the curved one. Edited May 31, 2011 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OniZ Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 Do you have bigger pictures of this I want to run the Z32 rear calipers and I believe the handbrake function on them is hydraulic so I'm looking for ideas on a system, thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PurePontiacKid Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 the hand brake on Z32's is a drum style, it's got shoes that are inside the brake rotor itself, so it's the typical cable system, but doesn't use the actual braking caliper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 10, 2011 Author Share Posted July 10, 2011 Have obtained Sean Schlapi's (Las Vegas) rear disc brake conversion which uses 85 Maxima calipers. Also obtained a second set of 85 Maxima calipers and hoses. Now to order Porterfield pads and have a bracket made that allows 2 calipers for each rear wheel. Pics when available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 15, 2011 Author Share Posted July 15, 2011 Just ordered 85 Maxima pads from Porterfield. My street pad will be R4-S on both my 72 240z stock front caliper and my primary maxima rear caliper. I'll be trying the R4-1 on the drifting rear Maxima caliper that activates with the hand brake. Next step is to make (or have made) new caliper brackets that allow mounting of dual Maxima calipers on each rear wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted August 1, 2011 Author Share Posted August 1, 2011 Recieved Porterfield Maxima brake pads. Wow, are these pads small! Anyway, have dual caliper bracket drawn out and hope to get it to a machinist this week. Gonna try to cut off old backing plates this weekend - Any pointers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 Dual caliper bracket is designed and at machinist. Mocked up rear disc conversion from Sean (or Shawn) from New Mexico. Bolts right up! Only problem is that my passenger side disc wobbles. Has anybody out there bent a stub axle? Gonna pull it apart and see if maybe there is some crud between the rotor and the flange. I really don't want to replace a stub axle.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrumpetRhapsody Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 Can we get some pictures of your setup RebekahsZ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted August 18, 2011 Author Share Posted August 18, 2011 Bracket is at machinist. I checked on it today and he has started, we verified some design issues and left him a caliper to ensure it fits. He has a long way to go, and is working this job in between better paying, more time critical jobs. I will definitely put pics up when I have the new brackets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted September 2, 2011 Author Share Posted September 2, 2011 Got brackets back from machinist today. He somehow let the template twist a little before drilling the holes to bolt onto the hub, so the clearance between the cable parking brake and the strut tube is just closer than I had hoped for. I think I can clearance it by trimming a little material off of the cable bracket. My drawings were such that the lower caliper would be level with the ground. I got jacked pretty hard on the brackets - $1000 total for both prototypes, but that is life in a small town with few machinist options. I would have to find more cost effective option if I was an entrepreneur and wanted to manufacure these. I need to find one brake hose that is 1 to 2 inches longer, and I need to move one of my brake hose-to-frame brackets up a little to complete the plumbing, but I think this is going to work. Pictures show the starting Maxima set up, then the double Maxima set up. I'll start painting parts Saturday then there will be a delay while I wait for new stub axles to arrive, get new bearings pressed and re-install. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notheredave Posted September 29, 2011 Share Posted September 29, 2011 Got brackets back from machinist today. He somehow let the template twist a little before drilling the holes to bolt onto the hub, so the clearance between the cable parking brake and the strut tube is just closer than I had hoped for. I think I can clearance it by trimming a little material off of the cable bracket. My drawings were such that the lower caliper would be level with the ground. I got jacked pretty hard on the brackets - $1000 total for both prototypes, but that is life in a small town with few machinist options. I would have to find more cost effective option if I was an entrepreneur and wanted to manufacure these. I need to find one brake hose that is 1 to 2 inches longer, and I need to move one of my brake hose-to-frame brackets up a little to complete the plumbing, but I think this is going to work. Pictures show the starting Maxima set up, then the double Maxima set up. I'll start painting parts Saturday then there will be a delay while I wait for new stub axles to arrive, get new bearings pressed and re-install. If you paid that much...they should have givin you the file or diagrams? Let me know and I will check my machinest on cost...I also had similar thoughts on dual Z32 fronts..."If more is better then too much is just enough" a little over kill but I like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted October 3, 2011 Author Share Posted October 3, 2011 Hydraulic handbrake system is finished-well at least as finished as anything in my garage. All installed and bled. Still need to optimize e-brake cable routing as it currently rubs on mustache bar, but it works great. We'll have to wait until this winter or spring for test drive impressions. It is based on a cheap internet "drifting brake" system that quickly fell apart. The only part original to that system is the master cylinder bracket and some of the linkages. In hindsight I would have gotten a CNC hydraulic handbrake for this part of the system and had a friend weld in some short of bracket on the side of the tranny tunnel. My system uses a wilwood master cylinder with a remote reservoir for passenger seat clearance. Plumbing is independent of the footbrake system. Proportion valve is not part of handbrake, it goes with footbrake system. It was very hard to adjust brakes when the hydraulic handbrake was originally plumbed in series with the standard braking (footbrake) system. Now the only part the two systems share is the rotor. I have changed the stock drums for a dual-1985 maxima system from Shaun Schlapi with a custom dual caliper bracket I had made locally. It all works great - in the garage. Road test later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistah mofro Posted October 7, 2011 Share Posted October 7, 2011 (edited) This is interesting me, im trying to to the same thing and going to pick up hydaulic ebrake this winter. Is your system connected with the factory brake system or is yours just resevoir-ebrake mc- rear calipers? Also why not get the wilwood 3/4mc with resevoir? Edited October 7, 2011 by mistah mofro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted October 9, 2011 Author Share Posted October 9, 2011 I have two totally independent systems of MC, lines, calipers. The only part of the system that is shared is the rotor. Study the center picture and follow the red line between the master cylinder and the remote brake fluid reservoir - I did just exactly what you are suggesting-wilwood MC with remote reservoir-it all comes in their kit. I started this with a K-sport internet chinese piece of junk kit then started modifying from there, the only thing left from that kit is the bracket. I would not do it the same way in hindsight. I would start with a CNC hydraulic handbrake - google that and you will find a MC/bracket/lever kit designed for sand rails. It is a much better kit. Thanks for reading my threat! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistah mofro Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 What do you mean by rotor system is shared, by what exactly? So from what i can see its resevoir/mc/proportioning valve/lines/and rotors if im correct? I havent heard good things with the ksport ebrake i was just going to get a driftoworks one or something. Have you used it at all yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 6, 2012 Author Share Posted March 6, 2012 Drift brake works great. Did have a problem. The brakes were progressively clamping down over about a mile of driving. Turned out to be due to a problem with incompatibility between the K-sport master cylinder push rod and the Wilwood push rod. I had swapped the K-sport rod into the Wilwood push rod and the end "button" on the end of the rod was of different dimension. So, I ground down the K-sport pushrod so that the dimensions were correct-locking of brakes stopped. Got 3 great spins with drift brake before fuel filter plugged and motor died. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 6, 2012 Author Share Posted March 6, 2012 The ksport and driftworks hand brakes are the same - total crap. They look to be made in the same Chinese factory out of recycled beer cans. The cast aluminum plate handle bends like a noodle-mine bent 30 degrees on the second pull. If I were to do this over, I would use the CNC system. You need a solid steel or tubular steel handle. The in-line reservoir system is kind of funny. The adjustment of your handbrake affects the feel of the pedal brake system-the two are connected and feedback into one another. Pull the hand brake and the footbrake pushes up; step on the foot brake and the handbrake handle moves. I like it a lot better now that I have a remote reservoir. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fast-datsun Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 do you have any more of the caliper brakets, If so I woud like a set for my new car... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 10, 2012 Author Share Posted March 10, 2012 No. What I did was order a kit (the vendor should be listed further up in this thread) and I made my bracket using that bracket to tell my machinist how to set up the distances from the hub flange, and I gave him a drawing of how I wanted the other dimensions. I'll look and see if I can find the drawing, but it doesn't show any of the spacing to get the caliper aligned to the rotor. If I can find it, I'll cell phone photo it and post it here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 23, 2012 Author Share Posted March 23, 2012 Rear brakes are all sorted out; pads are starting to bed-in. I can now lock my rear wheels on dry pavement going straight with a little flick of the wrist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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