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Ok so the front and rear subframes are out and ready to be cleaned and powdercoated. I'm now trying to source all find someone that has steering rack bushings for a 280zx with manual steering. No one seems to make them and motorsport auto only has rubber bushings for the PS models. this is just a theory of mine, but I THINK S30 steering rack bushings might be the same. could be something to check out.


anyway my bushing list:


front control arms

rear control arms

z31 subframe bushings (I'll trim to fit) or if you want something better still, get S13 solid bushings and have them turned on a lathe. they're a much closer fit than the Z31. (or even the poly ones for an S13 if you're a *****)

New boots for the steering rack, make sure you don't get the ones from MSA, and that they're poly and not rubber. mine tore within a couple months (although I do live in a super dry and hot climate, but they started cracking beforeit got real hot)

ABS steering coupler


Also getting Technotoytunning TC rods and Bump steer spacers


Going to be running s13 coilovers, so I don't need the bumpstops. what brand?



Anything I missed?



also, since you're going through the trouble of stripping everything down, go the extra step on the rear crossmember and modify it for camber and toe adjustability like I did, and like the Z31 guys do as well (although I used MX73 Cressida bolts for camber adjustment since they offer slightly more adjustability than the Z31 offset bolts do.)

read this writeup:



(but I just cut a pair of the plates off a Z31 subframe in the junkyard with a hacksaw, only takes about 20mins to do.)


here's a comparison of the Cressida bolts to the Z31 bolts:



one problem specific to the 280ZX for this mod is the stock bolts are smaller in diameter than the offset bolts. all I did was drill out the bushing sleeves. they're only slightly larger and there's still plenty of metal left on the sleeves.


also, what are you planning on doing for your diff mount?

Edited by PurePontiacKid
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I have rear kei office coils, so I want to find some fronts, then after I weld them on, if I don't like it I'll move up to stances. Main concern is having to get another pair of front spindles to chop, but they are plentiful and cheap here in the Cali junkyards. Probably going to do the s13 solid bushings. I was considering having a pair CNC'd.


So instead of making the plates like in the writeup you just hacked off some from a z31 for the toe adjustment and turned them 90 degrees? and welded them in place on the s130 subframe?

Edited by BluDestiny
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actually I used the Z31 toe adjusters as the toe adjusters (since stock crossmembers don't have any adjustment whatsoever) therefore put them in the stock position as on the Z31, and used the Cressida bolts on the outside for camber adjustment.


here's my inner mount (closest to the diff)


as you can see the slot goes back and forth (to adjust the toe-in)


and here's my outer mount (closest to the wheels)


as you can see the slot goes up and down (to adjust camber)


the Z31 bolts offer ~1* of adjustment

the Cressida/MKII Celica Supra bolts offer ~2* of adjustment if my eyeballs are correct (lol can't get on an alignment rack to measure hahaha)

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Yes there where factory slick top turbo's 2+2's in europe for sur(and canada i think) and i have seen one or two factry slick top turbos on ebay over the years, and one in person on a yard in Ontario CA a few years back. So they do exist, but they are rare..

Man imagine being the 80's you are allready buying the turbo... you would want to have all the bling!!! Now in 2010 with racing in mind in my book.. t tops are not what you want.


Tony has a sheet showing it is lighter than his 260, hence this was after the interior strip and with the full fpr hood. So he can go in specs, i can weigh it now in holland, but it doesnt have the engine in now.

as for rear trailing arm adjustment i use a set of a e30 BMW but im not satified with them ( or any of the soutions above)So im looking into a 'dtm' style e30 m3 set up using heim joints for my white turd

Edited by frank280zx
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ANY slick tops in Canada are pretty rare with the exception of the '79. We tend to get the models with the most features (and the extra charge associated with the extras if not more). I've seen ONE S130 with crank up windows in Canada in the last 18 years... and that was a '79. I think with the limited amount of solid S130s you grab what's solid and swap in what you want.... I like the '82-83 with the power rack and pinion steering which makes the turbo swap a lot easier.


We envy you guys in Cali with all the clean cars.... until we find a clean one and swap in whatever we want ;)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Earlier Cars are your best bet.


Contrary to popular belief, the Base Model ZX's were actually LIGHTER than the 280Z S30's they replaced in the lineup! :blink:


When I had my cars on the same scale back to back, I was shell shocked as to how true Tony's statement here is.


Mostly stripped '75 280Z with NO bumpers front or back, no interior, no spare tire, etc was less than 100 pounds lighter than my '81 with power steering, power windows, power mirrors, etc.


The clincher is that my '81 is a slick top, and the '75 has a turbo, so that adds some weight, while the slick top '81 is fairly light compared to the common t-top cars.


For years I've wanted to find a clean black on black '79 base model to through a SR into along with a subie R160. That'd just about be my dream S130 once suspension was well sorted. I'd keep the tires fairly conservative, don't let escalation get the best of me and keep it light. Could end up with a 2300 pound street car that's got some good pep to it.

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  • 7 months later...

A lot of confused people and bad information. 79-81 you could have a Grand Luxury or the Deluxe. I have 4 s130s. 1980 GL, 1980 Deluxe, 1982 NA, 1983 turbo. The deluxe manual I have came with the r180. If you want to know the facts on the deluxe models from 79-81, PM me, or read my multiple posts on zcar.com regarding the Deluxe.

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  • 2 months later...

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