Goosing a 2.6L

[BlueStag]

Hey guys,

 

I'm running a 2.6 with proper SU's, a later distributor, and with a Maxima 4sp auto behind it.

 

I am not currently looking for bags of power, especially as the bank is empty. I'm looking to produce power where the slushbox will find it.

 

The 2.6 is very solid, having been rebuilt about 20k miles ago. So I am not eager to just drop it.

 

In fact, I'd like at some point to get a 2.8turbo and squeeze it to about 200hp.

 

But for now I'd like to just get the 2.6 to give me a little more love. Ten more hp would be appreciated. 20 more would be a party.

 

I should mention that this is in my Triumph Stag.....

 

This is not a sports car, the way a Z is. It is very much like a zx in its suspension.....

 

I'm looking for a gentleman's cruiser that can hold up in Los Angeles rush hour traffic.

 

I'm thinking the compression ratio is tragically low. Shave the head and take it up to the low 9s? And then I need to shim the cam towers? Advance the timing?

 

Or go looking for a P79? That is going to force me to ease the cylinder bores for the valves?

 

I understand that any l6 can be made to produce gobs more power than the factory sent it out with, assuming one has gobs of money to achieve it. Which currently I do not.

[BluDestiny]

with not a lot of money you can't really get a ton more hp out of it. Its all in the headwork and machining. You can get things that you will use when you have the money to get the headwork done, like a set of headers and maybe even a cam kit.

 

But if you plan on swapping in a turbo later then just start buying and preparing for that and not waste money on things you won't be using.

[BlueStag]

with not a lot of money you can't really get a ton more hp out of it. Its all in the headwork and machining. You can get things that you will use when you have the money to get the headwork done, like a set of headers and maybe even a cam kit.

 

But if you plan on swapping in a turbo later then just start buying and preparing for that and not waste money on things you won't be using.

 

What I was proposing: up the compression ratio from 8.3 toward 9.3, polish the ports. Yes, a header would be a plus.

 

So my question should have been: what sort of power increase can one expect for that?

 

At this point I have no interest in even discussing the day that I might swap in either a 2.8t or a 3.0 v6 turbo, it is so very far off.

 

I obviously need to do the research on the cost of getting the head milled, but it is not excessive.

 

So, anyone? What sort of power boost might I expect?

[johnc]

5 horsepower. You're better off doing a perfect tune up and saving your money for the engine of your dreams.

[neotech84]

You will generally get more power advancing the timing than upping the C/R.

 

Try a better cam with a good set of SU's with timing advance you could pick up your 10 extra ponies...... and not brake the bank.

 

or if you wanted to gradually get into the turbo swap get Megasquirt on your spark and go dizzy-less.

[BlueStag]

You will generally get more power advancing the timing than upping the C/R.

 

Try a better cam with a good set of SU's with timing advance you could pick up your 10 extra ponies...... and not brake the bank.

 

or if you wanted to gradually get into the turbo swap get Megasquirt on your spark and go dizzy-less.

 

Huh. Well, that is certainly easy enough. Obviously need to watch for detonation, and be ready to run premium, I suppose.

 

I gotta get out the damned book and find out what the timing is supposed to be. Would you say to start out with ten degrees and see how it likes it?

 

The SUs are excellent, they were rebuilt by Z therapy.

[neotech84]

Yes 10 to 12 deg is a good start. Some guys are running up to 25 or 30! ( with proper support/ or turbo).

[NewZed]

Just for comparison, how much does the Stag weight, compared to the a Z?

 

In dollars per HP, with maximum simplicity in mind, it seems like a 2.8L long block from a 280Z or ZX might be an option. Just swap your carbs, etc. over and re-tune. With an auto, lower RPM torque is what you want anyway. Even though the 2.6 is fresh, an extra 7.6% displacement would add some go. That was Nissan's thinking anyway.

[neotech84]

I do agree that going with the 2.8 will add the sought after power with the same setup however, it would drive cost up. If the extra displacement is desired I say get the current setup in prime shape, SLOWLY gather parts for a turbo swap and build the 2.8L up with all its glory. Get the turbo installed with a mild tune on the 2.6L and drive it to death, swap and go crazy with the newly refreshed beast. This allows money saving time and drivability of the project with minimal down time. Oh and 200 hp with a turbo is a cake walk! more than likely you will be around 225-250 with Megasquirt and decent exhaust on either the 2.6 or 2.8L.

 

All in all this is not my car so it's up to the powers at bay.......

Edited August 30, 2011 by neotech84

[BlueStag]

The Stag weighs about 2800lbs, and was built with a 3.0 V8 producing about 130hp.

 

It has semi trailing rear suspension that looks very like that of the ZX.

 

I am sticking to the 2.6 for a good while. It is a solid engine and a known quantity.

 

I think I have the oil pump in one tooth too far clockwise, as I just today did the investigations: The mark on the balancer is at zero, the lobes on the came are both up and splayed out at about the same amount (10 and 2?) and I pulled the distro out.

 

The tang seems to me to be three or five degrees clockwise past where it should be. A small screwdriver set over the tang does NOT abutt the holes as per instructions.

 

So tomorrow the damned pump comes out just to go back in.

 

It is all OK, I am waiting on brake parts anyway.

 

I'm pretty sure I have been running it about 5 degrees bdc, so apparently I have been squandering hp. I am going to set it to 15 and hope to hear any pinging......

 

As for future engines, I like the idea of a 3.3 out of a pathfinder, plenty of torque for an automatic.

 

And I am happy to have FI, engine controls and even a cat or two, as I expect to be driving quite a bit, and I would rather not be dumping so much un burnt fuel into LA's atmosphere.

 

ON a weekend car I would not be so fussy, but as I say, this will be a daily driver.

[Tony D]

"I do agree that going with the 2.8 will add the sought after power with the same setup however, it would drive cost up."

 

The costs for the head work will dwarf what a used, good running L28 will run you, and you will have the all important torque that you won't have with the L26.

 

I'm with John Coffee on this one, tune up the engine properly and you will make the most you can. But the cam on an L26 is not the same as on an L28, so the torque production is higher in the RPM band.

 

I'm not saying change to an L28 cam, I'm saying just change to the L28 if you absolutely MUST pay money to do something to the car. You will get a performance profile on the cam in line with lower end torque (all - in by 5500rpms, peak power at 52-5300) and larger displacement to boot.

 

If you are considering the 3.3, then don't do anything at all to the head or CR of the L26, it's wasted effort for no gain. A tune up will make more HP.

[BlueStag]

 

 

If you are considering the 3.3, then don't do anything at all to the head or CR of the L26, it's wasted effort for no gain. A tune up will make more HP.

 

 

Thanks, Tony.

 

Yes, I will tune the 2.6, set the ignition advance aggressively, see how it likes it.

 

Meanwhile I need to be oportunistic about a swap. There is an offer on a 2.8 turbo, complete car, for $800. I don't see that sort of offer on any 3.3s, but then I have not made a trip to a pick-a-part yard in ten years. As soon as the weather cools I'll head over to one just to see what is what.

 

The sohc's in pathfinders make about 200 lbs torque at about 2800 rpm, which ought to match well with an automatic trans. It should get me down the road pretty well.

[4runnerguy]

ya man just increase fuel and advance timing works nice its just a pain to start if there is to much fuel in the carb.

When its cold it will try to die so u need to keep the revs up a bit 1200rpm works good.

it may backfire every time u let go of the throttle if u have a straight exhaust.

I have a full straight 3" and its like a machine gun is mounted in the back. i love the sound of it,

it almost sounds like a twin turbo skyline without the turbo spool

[BlueStag]

When its cold it will try to die

 

 

Cold? I live in Burbank, CA.

Edited September 3, 2011 by BlueStag