jaredroot Posted November 1, 2011 Share Posted November 1, 2011 Well I am kinda new to HybridZ, so I figured I will do a build thread of my s130 -Lets start off with a little bit of info... Back in March I was browsing around for my first car, about two hours later I found the perfect one for me. A 1980 Datsun 280ZX N/A with 165k miles and for the bargain of $1800. At the time I just wanted a cool daily driver but as I started driving it I needed more from it. The main issue is the fact that I am a high school senior that doesn't have a job. But do not fear, I have a monthly income of about $400. That may not sound like much, because it isn't. I currently use the s130 as a daily driver and it's fairly* reliable. The reason that I say fairly is because when it's cold out (I live in Colorado) the car has a rough idle and tends to backfire a bit until it runs for about 5 minutes. Any idea how to fix this? New plugs and possibly timing belt change? Oh and as winter is rolling around I need new tires. -The plans... Well the body on the car is a little rough but very little rust. It has had a shotty respray on it (I can see some overspray on some of the weather-stripping) That I would like to get redone. So, I would like to squeeze out as much HP from the N/A as I can, until I can afford an engine I can build up a solid turbo engine. I would like to lower it a little bit with stiffer springs, and larger rims. With the paint I also need a new front air dam lip as mine is chewed up to hell, so an aftermarket more aggresive lip would be nice. To summarize I would like paint, exhaust, tires/rims, aggresive front lip, and more horse power. -One last thing... I am new to working on cars as my roots lie in motorcycle work. Sure in my auto class I do brakes and suspension work on a daily basis but this car is different from that. So if I say something stupid, be sure to call me out on it. I am here to learn and minimize the mistakes I make on my 280ZX. Just to freshen up everything my end goal is to have a sweet car when all said is done. Oh and I make youtube videos so be sure to check those out. Here is the most recent one I have done on the Z. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Km-R4EzFb3M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted November 1, 2011 Share Posted November 1, 2011 There is no timing belt on an L28 engine. It may be something with the cold start injector, but either way if it runs when its warm then its all good. Suspension can be had for less than $1000 (tokico hp shocks, springs, MSA swaybar kit and urethane bushings). A new front lip, the basic one that every s130 seems to have is $200 new from MSA, I sold my old scrappy looking one for $60 I run a full 2.5in system no cat to an hks Hi power, cost me $100 for the hi power, $300 for the coated headers, and $150 for the piping plus welding. Rims and tires are up to you, Go with some 16x8 rims and tires choices are plentiful and cheap. Paint is also up to you. Power, if you want it, ditch the stock efi. But in my opinion, the stock hp is decent when you're driving a car weighing less than 2600lbs. It just feels sluggish off the line because it is, and the stock cams powerband is not that big and loses power after 5500rpm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ModernS30 Posted November 1, 2011 Share Posted November 1, 2011 I've got a 6-2-1 pacesetter header if you want it. For a round port head. Came off an F54/p90 (82-83 N/A) engine. Don't think its been run, if so, very little. Kinda rusty, but usable. I hit it with a wire wheel. =P Get Mega squirt. Cheap, it will let you tune it for the best efficiency and power. Also I would agree, stock cam is a large limit to the power band. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArchetypeDatsun Posted November 1, 2011 Share Posted November 1, 2011 If you go to the buy/sell section there are tons of people selling parts for reasonable prices, you might find what you need to turbo or just add more power to the motor in N/A form. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaredroot Posted November 2, 2011 Author Share Posted November 2, 2011 Thanks for the information guys! I appriciate the ideas that were suggested. -ModernS30 I have the N47 head so I'm not sure if the headers are compatiable, if they are how much would you like for them? -From what it sounds like, a more aggressive cam would be the eventual way to go. Am I correct? As for the exhaust I need something that is not very loud because I've been pulled over twice in a MR2 that I've owned (long story). I would like to do the 2.5" back with a muffler that makes it sound nice and aggressive. -One last thing, I am doing a set of videos to show what I have to work with the car; i.e the body, engine, exhaust, interior etc. etc. I have one that shows the engine and body condition that I'll be posting tonight. Again thanks for the input! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaredroot Posted November 2, 2011 Author Share Posted November 2, 2011 P.s. the videos help show the car rather than describe it. I figured it would be easier for everyone to see the problems rather than me attempt to describe them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FricFrac Posted November 2, 2011 Share Posted November 2, 2011 First off do the suspension. Who cares how much power your car has when it sways to and fro and sucks up bumps like a Caddy. A set of Tokico HP255 is going to give you the best bang for your buck and a decent drop. After that I would go with a turbo swap. A stock turbo setup will give you more than a cone filter, cams, and headers and exhaust on an NA and should be cheaper. Once you have a turbo setup it's easy to squeeze more power out of it. Since you don't have money/job you probably have time. Start digging in and reading. There is a mind boggling amount of information on these cars - including how to fix your cold start issue.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaredroot Posted November 2, 2011 Author Share Posted November 2, 2011 Thank you FricFrac for the suspension suggestion. I have noticed the awesome amount of body roll it has when I take a turn a little to quick . Being as winter is coming though the very first priority is for me to get some new rubber on the 14's or if I can find a deal on the local C-list for 16's that have good tires on them. But you're right, being as my bushings are destroyed I may as well do them soon along with the suspension. The only reason why I want to get a new exhaust set up is because I have a nasty leak near the cat. -Oh and sorry for posting my build here in the Model Specific part of the forum. I didn't realize that they had an area devoted to members projects. Should I move this over there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaredroot Posted November 3, 2011 Author Share Posted November 3, 2011 -Sorry for the delay on the videos guys. An unexpected blizzard rolled in last night causing snow and ice all over the place (including my Z) Hopefully by tomorrow I can knock out at least the engine one. -I also want to start eliminating things off my intake manifold, any tips on how/where to start? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaredroot Posted November 5, 2011 Author Share Posted November 5, 2011 Alright guys here is the video of the engine. As I say in the video I would like to get rid of some/most of the vaccuum lines on the intake manifold. Any suggestions on where I can start? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JVW1rGye9H4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted November 5, 2011 Share Posted November 5, 2011 You should start by getting a fuel rail. That clears up half the spaghetti. If you get rid of the cold start I believe a bit of the vacuum lines and water lines associated with it disappear as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaredroot Posted November 5, 2011 Author Share Posted November 5, 2011 Is there a online source where I can buy and aftermarket fuel rail? And do I need the cold start injector? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 (edited) Well the cold start injector is for cold weather, and you live in CO. I would keep it. Bunch of people make aftermarket fuel rails. Pallnet, a member here, has a thread in the vendor forum I believe. This is my engine on the stand right now. Shaved n42 intake with only the brake booster and the charcoal canister vacuum lines. Blocked off the other ones with screws just in case I might need them for something. Blocked off the Auxillary air valve and the cold start injector. Fuel rail that I need to actually get AN fittings for the ends. I have my o2 sensor located on the Ypipe that joins the 2 headers. PVC line, and the crank case line. Eventually gonna get a catch can. Also remove you're cruise control and anything associated with it if it doesn't work. Or if you never use it. Edited November 6, 2011 by BluDestiny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaredroot Posted November 15, 2011 Author Share Posted November 15, 2011 Very clean set-up, that's a good idea by using the screws. I think cleaning up the intake manifold is just something I need to just go for and tackle it. Luckily enough for me I have a week off school coming up so plenty of time to fix a few thing. -Also I put my car up on the lift I have in my high school auto shop, not to much rust under the body but it looks like someone hit a boulder with the dents in the frame rails. Video to come in a few days. I also need new lug nuts as someone thought it would be funny to loosen them before I went home. There are some real jackass's in this world. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ernest Harmon Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 That boulder was more than likely floor jacks and lifts.That is where the bulk of the damage in these areas comes from along with the accompanying rust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaredroot Posted November 20, 2011 Author Share Posted November 20, 2011 Well I believe it's time to start cleaning up my intake manifold. Sorry for the lack of a body video guys, I've been super busy with school and the Navy lately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaredroot Posted November 23, 2011 Author Share Posted November 23, 2011 Alright new issue with the car guys... -I started to attempt to clean up my intake manifold and I started the engine to check for obvious vacuum leaks until I noticed a slight fuel drip leading to the general area of the cold start injector. (it's the injector closest to the throttle body) I have decided I am going to go ahead and remove that injector from the manifold because it's not operating anyways. Is there a way I can cap the brass fuel line there or am I just screwed until I can get a new fuel rail? To help describe it a little better, there is a T going from the metal fuel line leading to this small injector. BluDestiny has his capped off, and I would like to do something similar. Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 For blocking the cold start valve line - http://www.mcmaster.com/#5272k147/=f26fza Not pretty, but it is effective. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FricFrac Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 You should consider going with a MegaSquirt setup. You can get rid of a lot of older vaccum activated/controlled stuff and have MS controll idle air, etc. You won't need the cold start valve either since MS has a fuel enrichment that just uses the stock injectors, etc. It's worth checking out and its a much more functional/expandable/configurable, etc, etc system plus you can tune the car, etc, etc..... the list really does go on and on. I'm recomending it before you spend the money to fix stuff that MS can eliminate or fix for you.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 I have a fuel rail for the barbed injectors I am getting rid of. I made it myself out of the finned aluminum extrusion -- you can have it for cheap, especially since you are in Colorado. It has no provision for a cold injector though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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