disepyon Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 Im not sure why i had clearance issues with the fan, could be that your year 280zx is different from mine or maybe it doesnt matter. Could be i just happened to get a bent radiator. but in the end it worked out fine for me and it doesnt leak anywhere. How is your clearance on the bottom (hanging down from the car) also from the top (clearing the hood)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzzydicerule Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 The way I have it mounted so the cap is about stock height. It hangs a good 1.5 to 2 inches below the support, and the petcock is another .75 or so added to that, but my inter cooler is Lower than the tank and both are above the bottom of my air dam. I can clear it with my jack so it's deinately higher than the x member as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 The 280ZX cooling fan mounts differently from the 240Z fan. Take a look at my cooling fan for EDIS thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzzydicerule Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 That's right, I'm using my stock 240z fan. I forgot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disepyon Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 Kool, so there is nothing wrong with any of my parts, just that the fan clutch with blades stick out further. I did not bother comparing it to my original fan since i think its not original to the car. that explains it all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disepyon Posted January 19, 2012 Author Share Posted January 19, 2012 Installed door hinge bushings on my shifter. Where are the bushings? No wonder it felt like crap Used the press to get them in all lubed up and test fitting the insert pin Installed!!! Almost no free play, feels the way it should now Bought lower ball joints, steering coupler bushing, tension rod bushings, and control arm bushings for the front. Next on the list to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ModernS30 Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 I absolutely love my brass bushings in my shifter! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disepyon Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share Posted January 20, 2012 I absolutely love my brass bushings in my shifter! As i too!! Got fed up with the throttle having a sticky/choppy feeling, so i did something about it, took apart all the linkages and greased the living crap out of them. All i have to say is WOW!! what a world of difference, simply amazing what grease can do. I Just took apart the linkage at the throttles, since the linkages for the gas pedal were already greased before. Everything looks really dry. All greased up and put back together. Well i did grease up this thing for the gas pedal linkages. took it off to make sure inside was greased well. When I took this for a test drive i discovered another problem to add to my **** list of problems that need to be fixed on this rust bucket. Seems as if when i get passed around 1500rpms, the lighting on the car (everywhere) will dim and brighten constantly. I drove it at night so this is how i know. I dont recall this happening before when i bought the car. Could be my charging system is wearing out now. Ive heard bad things about the 240z charging system being crap, but i dont know to much about improvements so ill have to dig around and search. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzzydicerule Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Is it an even fluctuation in the brightness. The Alt puts out AC Current (Department of redundancy Department anybody) and if your Voltage regulator is going out, it could be that the diode that converts it to DC inside there is not working properly, or is bad. That would be my guess. Quite honestly a 280ZX/ZXt alt swap is so easy and will give you such a better charging system, there is no reason not to. Follow this link http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/ Scroll about halfway down to alternator upgrade. It involves Jumping the Voltage Regulator wires into two pairs (the way i remebered it was the SOLID Wires[White and Yellow] and the Striped wires [black w/ white and White w/ Black]) and place a diode in the Lower Wire of the T connector for the alternator (this allows you to actually be able to shut the car off with the key, and can be had at Radio Shack) BUT Otherwise it is a complete bolt in alternator. (all of the plugs on the alternator are the same as the stocker) i believe you will just want to toss your stock pulley on to use the narrow V belt I did this when i did my L28 swap. I havent had a chance to drive with the new alternator, but from just idling, it seems like everything was working much smoother, and it has been known to be a very beneficial swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disepyon Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share Posted January 20, 2012 Thanks for that info fuzzy, ill look more into it and decide if i want to upgrade to the 280zx alternator. I did another greasy job. Got tired of the door lock not turning smoothly when i unlock and lock with my key. Results are that it turns as if its new. Feels like a hot knife cutting into butter. Hardly takes any effort to turn the lock and feels better than my passenger side and i thought it felt good compared to the driver side before i worked on it. There isnt much to it, just look for all the joints and grease them up. I used a cheap tooth brush that i had stored away in my house from when i went to the orthodontist when i had braces on my teeth. They required you brush your teeth before they work on you, over time i just collectively took the brushes they give you and kept them. Works really well on getting grease in between the moving parts. This joint i could not grease up, so instead i just used wd40. Decided to lube up the interior door handle, the spring used to make an annoying noise, now its quiet. Lubed up the window tracks as well. i used a cheap painters brush from ace hardware, tooth brush was too short to reach the inside. Thats it, Another thing that wont annoy me anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Boy you sure went to town with the lube. That looks like the red stuff [name escapes me now] that we used in my shop when I used to work on helicopters in the army...is it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Good stuff, now I need to do this! On the joint you couldn't reach, that's what spray grease is for! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disepyon Posted January 21, 2012 Author Share Posted January 21, 2012 The grease is from oreillys, i just got the valvoline grease for imports. Could be the same as the stuff you used to use for building helicopters. Yeah grease spray would of been better, but i didnt feel like buying some for this purpose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzzydicerule Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 Wheel bearing grease is the herpes of the automotive world, glad its working for you though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disepyon Posted January 26, 2012 Author Share Posted January 26, 2012 Wheel bearing grease is the herpes of the automotive world, glad its working for you though. Why is that? Not sure if the grease im using is specifically for wheel bearings, could be though. My bushings for the front suspension came last week. I replaced the steering coupler last weekend. Feels great, I noticed a better feel in steering, not sure if others did or not. comparison to the stock coupler. New coupler installed. Front ball joints came in today. In a few days or so i can finally swap out the parts, been waiting on those damn ball joints, oh well i guess, cant expect much from free shipping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disepyon Posted July 18, 2012 Author Share Posted July 18, 2012 Alright I figure i should update this. I havent really done much but drive it, just a few things here and there such as made my own headlight, turn signal, and accessory light harnesses mod. Changed out a few components in the front suspension. Worked on the motor and carbs some more to get it running right. Runs good now, i am getting about 20 to 22 mpg. Only thing that annoys me while driving is the fan clutch, so loud when its engaged, just to damn hot out during the summer but it keeps the temps down. Some recent pics of the car. Well from here on out, its time to pay more attention to the ls1 part. I just got my t56 magnum trans and ls bell housing today. Thanks UPS for leaving this next to my garage where everyone can see and not alert anyone who was at home. Put it on a roller, makes life easier when moving it. Ls bell housing. Thats it for now, ive been super lazy lately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UofA_ZCar Posted July 19, 2012 Share Posted July 19, 2012 Thanks UPS for leaving this next to my garage where everyone can see and not alert anyone who was at home. They are horrible about that, and the packages are always all beat up. I think Fedex is much better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disepyon Posted July 19, 2012 Author Share Posted July 19, 2012 I think its just a different delivery driver than the usual lady. She is good about it. But yeah i do agree with you about Fedex being better. I just dont understand why the person did that. You go through all that work to move a 145lb transmission up my steep driveway, why not just walk 6-8 seconds (depending how tired you are) to the door while your up there and ring the door bell? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disepyon Posted July 25, 2012 Author Share Posted July 25, 2012 Not LS1 related. Got my Stance super sport + coils in today. I dont need these now, but could not pass up the good deal from a vendor on zilvia. All i need now is the weldable kit from zcc http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt93255/pd2134436/STANCE__COILOVER_SUSPENSION_KIT_240Z_260Z_280Z#IMAGES Still debating if i want to convert the rear coils to upper camber adjustment like the fronts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disepyon Posted February 12, 2013 Author Share Posted February 12, 2013 Alright im back with more updates. Its time i get serious with the ls1 part of this project. Im at the point of just wanting to get this done. Its time i stop putting this off.Bought me a bunch of crap:-PRC CNC stage 1 ls6 heads with PAC 1218 Beehive Valve Springs-TSP 228R camshaft, LSA 114-Chromoly harden push rods-Basic head and camshaft bolt and gasket kit (cometic timing cover gasket with front seal, cometic water pump gasket, multi-layer steel head gaskets, head bolts, balancer pulley bolt)-LS2 timing chain-TSP LS6 ported oil pump with o ring-Clevite rod and main bearings (for stock crank application)-LS7 lifters-LS2 trays-Powerbond 25% UD Balancer Pulley, chromoly reusable balancer bolt, AC belt-OEM take off from brand new engine water pump includes 04+ thermostat with water neckAlso got my new Femi NG120XL portable band saw, thing is awesome. Now I want to get me a new CK flex Loc Tig torch with new dual gauge regulator and gas lenses. But no money for that right now, but soon hopefully.Lazy husky pups. Not sure how they sleep like that.Currently im waiting for my Monster stage 3 clutch, 18lb flywheel, and hydraulic throw out bearing to come in the mail. Pics when they get here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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