disepyon Posted April 8, 2016 Author Share Posted April 8, 2016 (edited) More progress, not much but something. Made a new bracket for the tension arm since the original bracket wouldnt fit my newly made frame rail. I started the downward bend to early and should had started it a little be later. I opted to make a whole new bracket in lieu of hacking up the stock one to make it work. Cut out a good chunk of rust on the fender well area. Made the support/stiffening plate for the frame rail. Not welded on yet, just snugly fitted for pics. Also made the mounting for the sway bar, kind of went over kill. I decided to have the bolt go through the entire frame. only thing left is wondering what I want to do for the tow hook mount... Edited April 8, 2016 by disepyon 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sirpent Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 More progress, not much but something. Seriously ???????????????? I feel sick when I look at mine and then see yours LMAO And you said I might have given you an idea, well hell Im pinching one back from yours after looking at the "MEAGER" amount of work you did. Love your work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disepyon Posted April 8, 2016 Author Share Posted April 8, 2016 To be perfectly honest, Ive about had it with repairing rust. Probably only completed about one thrid to a half just on the driver side, havent even started on the passenger side. Just how I feel right now in my current mental state with this project. There have be many days already I flat out didnt want to work on this car just because I dont like rust repair, hehe. Just be glad your car does not have as much rust if any from what I can see in your thread. Nah mine doesnt compare to your project and others on this forum, so far everything I have done is boring/restoring work, hehe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rturbo 930 Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 Shit, by the work you're doing, I thought you liked rust repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disepyon Posted April 9, 2016 Author Share Posted April 9, 2016 I think a major part of it is due to the fact that sheet metal work is still new to me. Learning is frustrating for me but it seems like its paying off. I figure while im at it, might as well give it all I have and try to do the repairs somewhat correctly while adding a few things. So I tried to order a baileigh 4' magnetic brake from a couple of stores but those units are on back order until mid May. I cancelled my order cause didnt want that much money in limbo incase something happens and i would need that money before then. So when those brakes are back instock ill submit another order. Sucks cause I am about to start on making the floor rail and while the bead roller I have bends metal, its a pain when working with 16g especially when I just want to make straight bends. Guess ill just make do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disepyon Posted April 12, 2016 Author Share Posted April 12, 2016 Replaced the rusted part of the fender well and got it tig welded and the welds smooth out. Section that got replaced. This is what the frame with the support plate looks like on the car before welding on the new sectioned fender well. Replaced section tack welded and tried my best to get it flush as possible. All tig welded. I welded most of it from the outside, not on the engine bay side. welds penetrated pretty good. Smooth out, Not sure how people get the welds smoothed out perfectly flush without noticing anything was welded in place. Guess just takes practice. I think part of my problem is that I need to start moving the weld puddle in a circular motion or just need to spread out the weld, that way it would give me a larger surface area to smooth out better and blend in, maybe... what it looks like with the frame back on. I also removed the radiator support, going to make one myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rturbo 930 Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 What method are you using to smooth your welds out? This is something I'm also working on improving at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disepyon Posted April 12, 2016 Author Share Posted April 12, 2016 First I use my die grinder with a flap disk on it to knock most of the welds down, the thicker stuff for the most part, then use my small air powered belt sander to knock the the welds even more to try and get it close to flush with surrounding metal but not entirely, finally use the air powered angle grinder with a sand pad on it to blend in the weld with the surrounding metal. For the sanding pads/belts I used 80-120 grit and while I sand only use very light pressure, keep it constantly moving and attack from all angles. Thinking I may need a higher grit pad, 120 grit is still a but ruff. I prefer tig welds for stuff like this because it is more malleable than mig, allows me to hammer and shape the weld with out it cracking and there isnt so much weld to remove, I control how much filler metal to put in, not only that if you tig it there really isnt a need to leave a gap between the work pieces to allow for penetration, for me anyways. I am still working on heat control, I still get warping but its not very bad. I just need to actually spend time practicing all this stuff, been pretty lazy about it, which is why I havent started on the rear quarter panels yet because that is something that needs to be done right since everyone will see that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rturbo 930 Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 No surprise, you're way ahead of me. I just ordered a handful of flap discs in different grits, should be able to get much better results with those than the one worn out mystery flap disc I have now. Regarding TIG vs MIG, as far as I know, a TIG weld will be softer than the surrounding metal, and a MIG weld will be harder than the surrounding metal (or something to that effect), so your TIG welds should be easier to blend than my MIG welds (no TIG sadly). My biggest issue at the moment is how fat my welds are. I'm a novice welder at best, so I'm sure there's a way to get em to lay flatter, but I haven't figured that out just yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disepyon Posted April 13, 2016 Author Share Posted April 13, 2016 For mig welding sheet metal, I am using .025 diameter wire ER70S-6, 75/25 mixture. I purchase most of my materials from weldingsupply.com, they have good prices and sales going on all the time. I havent really tried actually welding a small beaded section on sheet metal, just been using it for spot welding. Im not experienced enough to tell you what is needed to achieve a flat bead, I would have to go practice and play around with the settings. Only things I can really think of is trying various size diameter wires, using various settings and try different torch angles or push weld rather than pulling. Not sure if you heard of Jody Collier, but his knows is shit when it comes to welding. A lot of companies send him stuff to test out. This is his site, http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/ I see what your trying to say with the tig vs mig welds. A weld in general no matter what is being used will be stronger than the actual metal being welded to, if welded correctly. For the most part when a weld cracks, its usually on the edge of the weld or Toe/Foot of the weld I think is the correct term, at least most of what ive seen. Back in my high school days, In my senior year, I attended a tech school for welding during the entire school year (my school offered it for free) and certified in SMAW (stick Welding). Part of my certification was to weld, I cant remember the thickness of the plates/coupons, but they were pretty freaking thick that required multiple passes. The coupons had to be beveled to ensure penetration on the root pass. Anyways after all welded up, I had to cut the plate in multiple pieces, grind it smooth and take it to the bender which bent the coupons right at the weld 180 degrees and if done correctly nothing will break and crack. I really dont know why the tig weld is more "flexible" to work with than Mig and Stick welds, Could be the Filler rods used being the type of ingredients that are in tig rods that allows the tig welds to be easier to work with, I would have to read up on it. I like tig too because if you need too, you can just use the torch to smooth/spread out the weld. A lot of professionals who do body work/restorations that I have seen use mig welding, but then again some prefer Tig, I think its just preference, results can be achieved using either or. Practice Makes Perfect! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disepyon Posted April 20, 2016 Author Share Posted April 20, 2016 Been pretty lazy about working on my car. Some more progress. Man I need to get off my ass and get back at it or this thing will never get finished... Worked on the passenger side frame. Decided not to waste to much time taking it out, so i just drilled the holes in places where i cared about the metal and used the plasma to cut the rest out. Removed it all in one piece with the floor frame. New frame partially made. Need to work on the firewall side of it, does not quite set right against the wall, mostly my fault since I was in a rush making it. Now I have to suffer by spending more time making it fit right, should had spent the time in prep work. Also took the majority of those damn bendable anchors out on both the passenger and driver side fender wells. As you can see on the driver side tower, one of them completely rusted through both layers of the metal. Was hoping that the metal in the battery area would be good enough to just paint some silver POR-15 (silver version contains metal filler for badly rusted areas) paint on, but doesnt seem like it. There is one hole I see so far, with out really investigating this area yet. The front part of the fender well area was badly crushed/dented, not really sure why this is, could be some idiot in the past jacked in this area. Spent a little time straightening it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sirpent Posted April 20, 2016 Share Posted April 20, 2016 Inspiring, don't lose faith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1969honda Posted April 20, 2016 Share Posted April 20, 2016 Work looks good, keep it up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disepyon Posted May 14, 2016 Author Share Posted May 14, 2016 (edited) Thanks for the motivating words! Been pretty down and not in the mood lately considering I am out of work right now (been out off and on for awhile) and thinking that I may be out of work for awhile. I worked as a petroleum Landman and the majority of Landmen are contractors (field landman). Due to the oil business being at its all time low, there isnt much work for a person with not much years experience as a landman such as myself. Though I know how to do the job fairly well and not to sound cocky, but know I am able to do the job better than those Landmen with years of experience on top of me who suck at it pisses me off that Brokers are hiring them only because of the years they have in the business even though their job performance suck. Whatever, have fun over paying them and getting shitty work turned into you. Also sucks because it isnt stable and reliable what so ever, a broker can just ditch you in a New York second, and from my experience there are a lot of shady ass Brokers that or just terrible people in managing roles running the company. Just recently one broker I did some work for straight up screwed me out of work. Had me come in to an office meeting to discuss work and run full title and get some accounts set up for me. Well I didnt here back from them throughout the day so I finally emailed them asking when will I get my first assignment/Section to run full title on, turns out they had work just not for me.... yeah I know right!! Bastards!!! Thinking about changing my job outlook to coding/computer programming/software developer. I always liked computers and figured why not get into something that helps create the programs. Been reading a lot about it and it seems like there are people who hate coding and those who dont mind it, just personal preference I guess. Not only that it seems like there are a lot of programmers getting jobs without a computer science degree, my degree is in biology(B.S., the bull shit degree). Seems like quite a bit of employers just want to know what you know, able to actually program and able to expand your knowledge. Reason I got a Bio degree was because the health field was something that interest me. Sad truth is, I absolutely hate school, hate being in class listening to a professor talk/read their power point for an hour or two, hate being forced to learn something that real life work will never see and the money for school is just ridiculous now days. Anyways in the meantime plan A while I am out of work will be to learn some programming in place of work time. Been working on the Z off and on lately. So far only got the passenger side front frame made. Both rails for the most part are completed, just need to drill holes and weld nuts on the back side for tow hooks. Also added in plates for the tow hooks and completed the front part of the reinforcements. Decided to have the tow hooks come straight out from the end of the frame rail. Cut out some rust on the passenger side fender well. For the battery tray area of the fender well, I decided not to waste time and just replace the rust only in the area where the holes are seen. The rest of the rusted metal surprisingly still alright considering how pitted it is. Will just put some silver (contains metal filler) POR15 on it and call it a day. Also received my new Baileigh Magnetic Sheet Metal box and pan brake, my new favorite tool!! Though one thing that pissed me off was that they didnt supply you with a 220v plug. I spend all this money for this thing and not plug... I understand every ones outlet may differ, but could just put an option when ordering on which kind of plug you need. Edited May 14, 2016 by disepyon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disepyon Posted May 22, 2016 Author Share Posted May 22, 2016 (edited) Just like the Driver side, I welded in new metal in the lower fender well, though I do not have pictures of it completed, thought I had some but guess not. Made the lower radiator support/front cross frame to tie both rails together. Comparison pictures included against the stock support. This will be permanently welding in, only the upper support I will make it to be removable. Edited May 22, 2016 by disepyon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sirpent Posted May 22, 2016 Share Posted May 22, 2016 I'm just every time I see an update in this thread.................... Sensational work ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red76z Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 This work is outstanding. Lots of passion. Enjoy the build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
73Fairlady Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 this thing is amazing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disepyon Posted May 29, 2016 Author Share Posted May 29, 2016 thanks guys! Managed to get the passenger side Floor frame made, fabricated out of 16g CRS. Decided instead of having it like the original floor frame at the area where it connects to the front frame rail on the engine bay side, I went ahead and had it wrap up and over the front frame rail. Not sure if it helps strengthen anything or not, but did it anyways. Kind of got the idea from Sirpent when he added that cool looking supporting plate in that area. Unlike mine which probably isnt heavy enough duty, his looks like it will hold up against Superman. Comparison picture against the stock frames. What it will look like on the car. As you can see from this pic, the floor is pretty jacked up. Guess previous owners thought the floor would make a great jacking point or jack stand location. Next will be the driver side and then need to make the rear part to connect the floor frame to the rear framing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sirpent Posted May 30, 2016 Share Posted May 30, 2016 thanks guys! Managed to get the passenger side Floor frame made, fabricated out of 16g CRS. Decided instead of having it like the original floor frame at the area where it connects to the front frame rail on the engine bay side, I went ahead and had it wrap up and over the front frame rail. Not sure if it helps strengthen anything or not, but did it anyways. Kind of got the idea from Sirpent when he added that cool looking supporting plate in that area. Unlike mine which probably isnt heavy enough duty, his looks like it will hold up against Superman. Farrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrk ME ! Strong enough ? Help Strengthen !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Are you kidding ???????????????? And makes mine look like Schiest !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Why dont you put these into production along with the rest of the bling you are making ? I doubt you would keep up with the demand ! As always "I hate your splendiferous work" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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