RebekahsZ Posted December 25, 2011 Share Posted December 25, 2011 I am working to reduce the rear track of my 240z to allow some wide wheels/tires to fit inside stock rear fenders. I have the tires clearing the rear fenders with the use of camber plates. But, I now want to reduce the induced negative camber. I don't want to raise the ride height, and I don't want to cut/flare my fenders. I have some offset bushings, but they don't reduce the track enough. Do any of the after-market control arms allow for REDUCED track/de-cambering? Has anybody out there cut and welded their stock lower control arms in order to shorten them? Anybody got a set of spare, straight LCAs that they would sell me to experiment with? Next question will be: how much length to remove? I'm kind of thinking an inch or more... Input??? Send pictures if you got em'. Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19762802+2 Posted December 25, 2011 Share Posted December 25, 2011 If you shorten the control arms too much your going to have clearance issues around the strut tower, With all the angles considered your moving the angle of the strut towards the center as well so you would have clearance issues with a stock strut setup, Might have more clearance with Coilovers but then you still have problems with the mounting surface of the strut tower. They are plenty of options for adjustable Control arms, Techno Tuning for example that can give you some options for decreasing and adjusting camber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
un-fairlady z Posted December 25, 2011 Share Posted December 25, 2011 another option from the T3 RLCA are Z force productions or if you have extra dough to spend, you can check out the arizona z car rlca which have a bit more adjustability such as toe adjusment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted December 25, 2011 Share Posted December 25, 2011 You'll also have problems with halfshaft length, especially if you were going to go with Z31 CV's. If you got my shafts, then you could get about 3/4" of range before the CV's bottomed. I might be able to do a shorter set. Really though, I'd suggest camber plates first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted December 25, 2011 Share Posted December 25, 2011 Have you considered getting wheels with the correct Offset? What size tire are you trying to fit in the stock well? What sIze and type of wheel do you have? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted December 25, 2011 Author Share Posted December 25, 2011 Thanks for all the recommendations, sounds like I'm in unchartered waters. Mr. Mortensen, I'm planning to use your axle shafts no matter what-saving Christmas money right now-just got a little more! I'll start with your current design and see if that will work before trying something special there. If the shafts are too long, I'll let you know and we'll go from there. One of the problems is that I've got to study my geometry to know how much to shorten the LCAs. I'll add a photo of my camber to this thread and maybe somebody can advise me on how much I should cut out of the LCAs. I already have coilovers and camber plates, and the correct offset rim-I'm maxed out on all the traditional stuff. I am equally crowded between the tire and the fender, and the tire and the strut. I have checked with Arizona Z, T3, etc, all of their LCAs are built with INCREASING length in mind and they are not set up to be shortened less than stock. I'm gonna have to either cut something or get skinnier wheels/tires. I'm running 26X8.5X15 (which has a 10" section width) slick on a 7-inch wheel with 4.5" BS. Think of the tires as being 10" wide. I'm gonna wait two or three more days for more advice, then I'm gonna buy some LCAs and start working on it. Last guy I'm hoping will weigh in is JohnC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted December 25, 2011 Share Posted December 25, 2011 (edited) I had the same problem -- my drag radials weren't taking kindly to the camber that my non-adjustable LCAs were giving, so I went to something adjustable. I used the MM adjustable LCAs. I had to shorten the adjusters in order to decrease the camber, but I was able to take about an inch out from each side. I am using coilovers with shorter springs to put the lower perch above the tire, so I've got things tucked in pretty much as far as they can possibly go. I'm also using Z32tt CV shafts and was able to achieve full suspension travel without binding them. This allowed mounting MT ET street radials in 305/35-18 on a 10.5" rim, with what used to be called the MSA "Street" flares. If you are planning on going that far inboard, I'd highly recommend pulling the springs and running the suspension through its full travel - I ended up having to clearance the inner fenderwell in order for it to clear at full bump. Edited December 25, 2011 by TimZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted December 25, 2011 Share Posted December 25, 2011 Arizona z cars of style of tubular control arms will do what you want. I have a set on my car and have done what you are trying to do with these arms. Cobra Matt is selling a pair for 250. That is a killer deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted December 26, 2011 Author Share Posted December 26, 2011 Mark and TimZ- Can you each describe in more detail what you did with the various brand control arms you have used. The sites say the control arms can't be shortened, so before I spend money, I'd like to really have my act together. Got any pictures that show what changes you did to the LCAs to make them shorter. I'll contact Cobra Matt and check into his parts. I'll also surf the brands you recommended and watch for your replies. I have ordered a spindle pin puller, so I'm serious about doing this mod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted December 26, 2011 Share Posted December 26, 2011 You can shorten the LCA length using the Modern Motorsports arms. But Jon is right, there are hard limits on what you can do based on you halfshaft/CV shaft lengths. I suggest that, for drag racing, you raising the ride height and decamber as much as you can using the camber plates. You have adjustable coil overs in back, use them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted December 26, 2011 Share Posted December 26, 2011 Not to beg the seemingly obvious, but custom Ford 9" setups and weld-in four-link universal back-half setups are available through the major vendors. If you want to run steamroller tires, converting to a dedicated dragrace rearend won't really make you suffer too much on the short trips to and from the track (or on and off the trailer!) Compare the prices of this route compared to the other routes... Especially when F9" stuff shows on EBay regularly, and your ratios are cheap and virtually unlimited! Just a thought. Unless you're limited to the the 'stock' rearend by some rule requirement, why reinvent the wheel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Posted December 28, 2011 Share Posted December 28, 2011 A full backhalf treatment would be pretty radical, and remains rare on Zs. And it would only be consistent to do a full cage and to deal with the consequences. What are the performance goals for this car (forecast/desired 1/4-mile time)? How aggressive is the powerplant? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted December 28, 2011 Author Share Posted December 28, 2011 Thanks guys, but this is a multisport car: show, cruise, road trip, daily driver, drag, autocross, and maybe a little drifting. I toy with all of it, but am not super serious with any of it. As a result, the car will probably not stand out and shine in any particular category, but I'm ok with that. So, no solid or backhalf for me. I am serious about reliability and quality construction. No junk build here. Mods, please kill this thread if you can; I've started a new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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