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Manual trans????


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Ok so im planning to put a sbc into my 240z using the JTR kit but my question is what trans to use so I can keep my car a manual transmission I have tried to search but still couldnt find an exact answer on what transmissions to use. Any insight to help me is much appreciated. And again yes I did use the search button. And no it dont matter if I use a 4 or 5spd transmission

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I went with the WC T-5 since it was really cheap compared to the t56. (spent $250 for mine with new clutch and flywheel off of cl, compared to a T56 on CL for $1200 without the extras). I'm pushing close to 310hp/340tq and have had no issues with it all.

 

For the T5 you have to trim the shifter hole a tad on the drivers side, but not much.

 

DSC06500.jpg

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To be pedantic, this probably belongs in the "drivetrain" subforum.

 

The "world class" T5 is probably adequate for most applications, as the limiting factor will likely first be rear-wheel traction, rather than driveline stresses.

 

The disadvantage of most domestic 4-speeds is the narrow spread between 1st and 4th gear. For a torquey engine in a light car, all of that shifting will be superfluous. And the highest gear is still too deep for comfortable highway cruising. A good example is my own mistake: I went with a Doug Nash 5-speed. Yes, it's a 5-speed, but 5th gear is 1:1. First gear is 3.27:1. So the highest to lowest ratio, 3.27 to 1, is quite narrow. The 4-speeds are even worse... some of them have a 2.2:1 first gear and 1:1 fifth.

 

Unfortunately manual transmission options have not been improving over the years with anything close to the vigor that we've seen on the engine side. When the JTR manual first became popular, in the late 1990s, the LS engine series was just starting to hit the market, and the Datsun swap of choice was the traditional carbureted 350. The manual transmission choices were T5, the then-cumbersome T56, and the 4-speeds. Well, the T56 is still cumbersome. Just about the only change in the past dozen+ years has been the aftermarket support for the T5 (Forte's, G-force) - which is substantial and very good, but also very pricey ($2500 for a G-Force T5 upgrade).

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I used a muncie 4-speed in my 280z. I made a bracket for the hurst shifter that extended it towards the rear so that the shifter would come up in the original hole. You will also have to extend the shifter rods. I just spliced in some extra rod til it was the correct length. I had to massage the trans tunnel a little to have room for the shifter and rods, but it wasn't too bad. I made my own motor mounts so I offset the engine just a tad to get room between the headers and the steering shaft, so you might have a tighter fit. I'm not familiar with the JTR kit.

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  • 4 weeks later...

You can get the internals for the T5 to make it almost bullet proof. I believe they use cobra internals.

 

Yep, that's what I did. Got everything from 'thegearbox.org'. I've had no issues, due to the fault of the trans.

 

T5 is also lighter and smaller than the T56. You can make it as strong as you need it to be.

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I used to work as a ford dealer tech and repaired t5's-I really didnt see any problems from an overloaded trans.1 of the other techs was drag racing a 88 mustang with a t5.engine was out to 347" and had a supercharger.Car was running high 10's in the 1/4 mile.The trans broke at about 80 runs.After removal it was found the the owner had forgotten to install a pilot bearing in the back of the crank.Since I am more of a road course kind of guy I would have no problem running a t5

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World class or non-world class T5 are both good. The important thing is to get a T5 from a V8 car and not a V6. The number of splines on the input shaft is the way to tell if it is a V8 or V6 trans. I forget the exact count but i think it is 26 splines on the V8 trans and around 10 on the V6 trans (easy to see).

 

Just go easy on the trans. Shift kind of slow, try to avoid full power in 5th gear and dumping the clutch.

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