75 distributor in 73 datsun

[suparman]

I know this has been asked as I have seen it some where, Just not sure where. So here it is again after a couple hours of mulling it over.

What I have is a D6f4-01 5604 distributor I believe came off of a '75 I got it for free and can kind find all sorts of info on putting a zx distributor in but since this is what I have this is what I want to do

Any links or info on installing this in the '73. Please help this is my daily driver so the sooner it runs the happier I am. Thank you.

[neotech84]

Just do the Gm HEI upgrade and slap it on. The difference between the early model and zx dizzy is the the ignition module. The zx is attached to the side while the early series is in the cabin.

[suparman]

I understand wiring diagrams and pictures. Can I remove the black box's inside the distributor? The other confusing part to me is all three of the wires coming out of the distributor are light blue.. no difference.

[NewZed]

If there are three wires then you probably have one with dual pickups. You only need one pickup (two wires)for the GM HEI module. It's probably a rebuild, that's why the wires are blue. Take a look right at the pickup coil in the distributor and you'll probably see a green and a red spliced in to the blue wires.

 

The GM HEI module used with a variable reluctor distributor isn't really written up well anywhere that I've seen. In short, on the HEI module, B connects to switched battery voltage (coil positive is a convenient source), C to coil negative, G to the green wire from the distributor pickup coil, and W to the red wire from the pickup coil. Make sure that the module mounting points (holes) are electrically grounded, since that is part of the module's control circuitry.

 

Edit - here's a popular link specific to the 240Z - http://www.sonic.net/~kyle/ztech.html

Edited May 12, 2012 by NewZed

[suparman]

Alright I used the blaster 2 coil wired it as instructed from the link. No spark .....The only thing I can think of is on the pickup in the distributor both wires are blue. I looked at pics of other and the top wire was red so I treated the top blue wire as the positive if this was wrong would this fry the HEI module? Even when I reversed the wires there was no spark... confused. I have double and triple checked the wiring I know it is right. Any suggestions?

[suparman]

I put the module on a piece of aluminum from a license plate with the goo under it and used sheet metal screws to bolt it to the body for the ground.

[suparman]

I have a 12.6 volt reading at battery, 12.2 at coil pos. ignition on, 9.9 ish during cranking, 12.2 coil neg ignition on, 10.3 ish cranking, 12.2 on b terminal ignition on 10.3 cranking, same for c terminal, g terminal reads 1.32 ignition on 1.62 cranking, w reads 1.32 ignition on and 1.62 cranking. hope this helps... Because I am flustered

Edited May 19, 2012 by suparman

[suparman]

I did use the battery negative as ground for all of the tests

[Poundz9oh9]

Sub'd

 

Just mounted up a new coil and HEI module in my 77. The wiring is a little different from all the writeups online, so hoping to have some light shed on it before I start frying stuff.

[s30red240z]

I think any other module, could work, ford, HEI 4,7 MSD even E12-93 nissan, but i saw E12-93 got advance timing at 1700-4000 rpm. with centrifugal shaft part locked

[NewZed]

Have you checked for power at the coil? Battery voltage on both sides with the key on? Did you ground the HEI module to the aluminum plate and the plate to the body (back to battery negative)? The mounting holes in the module are the electrical ground circuit for the module, the mount is more than just a heat sink. A little work with a volt/ohm-meter might clear things up.

 

Here's another link with the original link to the one I posted inside. Go down to "Index of Technical Articles, then to Engine - Ignition system, 280Z/GM HEI Module for your 240Z, then inside that article you'll find "Here's the source..." with more details on how to troubleshoot the new parts. Sorry I can't just post a direct link, it's an odd web site format.

 

http://zhome.com/

 

It shouldn't be too difficult,if you break it down in to the basics. For example, if the coil has power, you can test for spark by tapping a jumper to ground from the coil negative. That's what the module does, makes and breaks the coil circuit. If you don't get a spark that way, the module won't give one either.

[Leon]

I put the module on a piece of aluminum from a license plate with the goo under it and used sheet metal screws to bolt it to the body for the ground.

This is somewhat unclear, but it sound like you just glued the HEI module to the aluminum and attached the aluminum to the body. This electrically isolates the module and thus you have no ground connection. Read what NewZed said.

[suparman]

I have a 12.6 volt reading at battery, 12.2 at coil pos. key on, 12.2 coil neg key on, 12.2 on b terminal key on, same for c terminal, g terminal reads 1.32 key on, w reads 1.32 key on.Hope this helps. Yes the the coil when jumped to a ground is providing spark, yes the Hei unit is on a aluminum plate but the mounting screws are embedded in the fender well volt meter has confirmed they are grounded here is a pic of my setup.

[Six_Shooter]

Have you checked for power at the coil? Battery voltage on both sides with the key on? Did you ground the HEI module to the aluminum plate and the plate to the body (back to battery negative)? The mounting holes in the module are the electrical ground circuit for the module, the mount is more than just a heat sink. A little work with a volt/ohm-meter might clear things up.

 

Here's another link with the original link to the one I posted inside. Go down to "Index of Technical Articles, then to Engine - Ignition system, 280Z/GM HEI Module for your 240Z, then inside that article you'll find "Here's the source..." with more details on how to troubleshoot the new parts. Sorry I can't just post a direct link, it's an odd web site format.

 

http://zhome.com/

 

It shouldn't be too difficult,if you break it down in to the basics. For example, if the coil has power, you can test for spark by tapping a jumper to ground from the coil negative. That's what the module does, makes and breaks the coil circuit. If you don't get a spark that way, the module won't give one either.

 

Here is a direct link:

http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/gmhei.html

 

With the voltage staying high on the negative side of the coil while cranking, this indicates that there is either no trigger or a weak trigger signal to the coil negative.

 

Having 12V on the negative coil terminal with the ignition on, engine off is normal.

 

What you should see is the voltage on the negative terminal fluctuate and drop to near zero with a DMM on the DC voltage setting. You can actually use the AC voltage setting on the DMM, to test for proper trigger, if you know what to look for.

 

Posting some pictures of what you used and how it is all connected will likely help to sort out your issue.

 

FWIW, I used a GM 8 pin ICM on my car a few years ago, when I did the EFI conversion, so that I had computer controlled timing. I have since gone to DIS.

[suparman]

If you look at the module the screws through it are grounded and in contact with the metal inserts of the module. Is there another way I should have done this?

[NewZed]

Your numbers here and in Post #7 look right. It should be sparking. If the G and W leads were backwards you should still get spark, as I understand it, but the timing would be erratic. It won't hurt anything to swap the G and W leads and try it.

 

Maybe there's a reason that distributor was free. The resistance across the pickup coil leads (disconnected from the module) should be ~720 ohms according to the FSM.

 

Edit - to add a little to Six Shooter's - you could also measure the voltage across the distributor pickup coil leads as you spin the distributor (it can be hard to see though with a digital meter). It should rise and fall as the star-shaped reluctor tips pass the pickup coil. You didn't mess with the pickup coil did you? It needs a certain clearance to work right.

Edited May 19, 2012 by NewZed

[suparman]

More pics

[suparman]

Resistance is reading 717 ohms. I did not change anything except take out the second pickup on the distributor. I hooked up the old analog meter to the wires ground lead was grounded to the engine the white wire now hooked up to g terminal showed the slightest bump when distributor was turned counter clock wise. the green wire connected to w terminal showed zero response.

[NewZed]

You might try a dedicated ground wire from the mounting hole to a good ground on the block. The fender that your sheet metal screws are attached to might not have a good ground.

 

Otherwise, everything looks good. Here's something to look at, that I've done before - did you remember to put the rotor on top of the distributor shaft? So the spark can get from the main coil wire to the plugs? You've shown that all the pieces are good, maybe it's just a bad connection between the coil output and the plugs.

[Six_Shooter]

Try disconnecting that second connection on the coil negative. Use just the output from the ICM. I'm not sure what that other wire would be for.

 

You will also need to swap your tach for a later model tach to function correctly.

 

The '73 tach is "current triggered", this change requires a "points triggered" tach. A tach from a 280Z will work, though some do require an internal resistor to be bypassed.

 

You won't need to run a ground from the ICM to the block, when I was running mine I had a single drywall screw through one hole in the module to the inner fender, and worked fine for about 8 months, well it probably would have worked longer, but swapped to DIS.

Edited May 19, 2012 by Six_Shooter