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wiring harness and ecu question


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I dont understand why I cannot just find the right distributor for the motor. Why the need to drop the oil pump? For example if the motor is an 83 then an 83 dizzy should bolt up no issues right. I gues Im missing something here. Is my motor a frankenstein (l28 bottom l28et head)? I searched lotsa swaps but found no info specific to my issue. So if my motor is running a 78 2850z dizzy then what does that mean? Does it mean the bottom end is indeed a na L28? Thanks very much.

Rick

 

That engine is NOT a stock L28ET. So, ya, it kind of looks like a "frankenstein"... You may have to see what the stock engine really looks like to understand the differences.

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Define easier, megasquirt still requires the distributor be changed. Any ecu will require custom wiring and then there is the tunining. For some of us tuning is not "easy".

 

What is the breakdown on your turbo setup? What distributor, ECU, ect?

 

Factory option is plug and play once you understand what parts you need.

 

He can use the dizzy he has, just add a GM HEI 7 or 8 pin Ignition Control Module. This will work with both MS and Delco.

 

As far as MS goes, there's plenty of people here and elsewhere running the same or similar combo that can provide a very good file (MSQ I believe), that probably would not require much in the way of tuning.

 

Also there are people around that can tune it for him, I'm pretty local, and would be willing to give pointers, and some help.

 

If you're asking about my set-up, it's pretty much all in my build thread.

 

Just quickly:

-Delco ECM (Service Number 1227749)

-GM DIS ignition (original conversion used a 280Z dizzy connected to a Delco 8 pin Ignition Module), This same DIS could be used with Megasquirt.

-Modified code that was used in the turbo Sunbird and Syclone/Typhoon, to have some additional features. (www.code59.org)

-Borg Warner 6.5L diesel Turbocharger

-3 BAR MAP sensor

-36 lbs/hr injectors

-Walbro fuel pump

-more parts and such, but not really relevant to the topic.

 

All I'm suggesting is that because it seems to be difficult to source the factory original stuff, in good condition, or working order and getting harder by the day, that going to something that will all for more room to grow later would be best, since the stock EFI can only be used to support so much in the way of more boost, bigger injectors, intercooling, etc. There comes a point where a different system is needed. I haven't known ANYONE that has installed a stock turbo system and left it alone for the entire time they owned the car. The boost bug bites, and they need more, so it makes more sense to me to buy something now that will work in the long run, instead of buying it twice. ;)

 

Here is a picture of my car, with the dizzy shortly after the conversion, running on a Delco ECM:

Hard to see the dizzy, but I was using it to trigger the GM ignition module. I locked out the mechanical advance, and just left the vacuum advance disconnected. The DIS works MUCH better though, and recommend it over any dizzy now.

turbo%20driver%20day%20front.jpg

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Here's the only thing I was refering to (which is the only thing you can really tell from your pics) - Pics of bone-stock L28ET Intake Manifold, J-pipe. Yours is obviously altered - not saying that's necessarily bad - just that you may need to understand the differences...

post-5024-028253400 1339454957_thumb.jpg

post-5024-017837600 1339454973_thumb.jpg

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Looks like you have a turbo engine and head with 1978 EFI parts attached to try and make it run. That's probably a rising rate fuel pressure regulator sitting on the fuel rail. It's a fairly common way to try and get by if the factory parts aren't available. I've never seen anyone report that they love that setup after it's done though. Most say it's "ok".

 

So you're back to your original question about the automatic harness versus the manual harness with a manual ECU. Odds are good that it will work. If there is an issue, it's probably just a wire or two that can be easily fixed. If you check the wiring diagrams in the engine Fuel section of the FSM, you'll probably see a dotted line or two labeled "automatic" to show what's different.

 

That's my semi-educated guess. You'll still need the distributor with drive shaft though, to work with the ECU.

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Both the automatic and manual ecu's can be used with either the manual or automatic wire harness. Agree on the distributor and distributor drive. Will need the turbo afm as well.

Edited by ctc
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That's probably a rising rate fuel pressure regulator sitting on the fuel rail. It's a fairly common way to try and get by if the factory parts aren't available. I've never seen anyone report that they love that setup after it's done though. Most say it's "ok".

 

Its a fuel pressure regulator. The previous owner used it to leaned out the fuel mixture is my guess. The dizzy only has 2 wires coming out of it where the turbo dizzy has 4. Still there must be a CPS sensor in the dizzy cause theres not one near the crank. That Im certain. The engine shouldnt run without the cps right?

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Some EFI doesn't need a separate crank position sensor, it just needs to know that the engine is turning and at what RPM. The coil negative trigger will do in many cases and is what the early Nissan EFI used for reference.

 

Other systems, while only using a simple pulse from a dizzy, can run much more complex systems, because they are still based on simply knowing that the engine is turning and at what RPM, other sensors, like the MAP or MAF, TPS, etc will also be used to make the engine run well.

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Heres the 81 turbo dizzy I got with my harness afm and ecu this weekend.

2012-06-12084626.jpg

 

Am I correct in understanding you now have a complete 1981 ECU, Wiring Harness, dropping resistors and AFM?

 

Compare your set up to this thread and report back if you have all these components.

 

Complete 81 L28ET swap Guide in FAQ

 

The link is a complete guide in how to install the 81 system.

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