s30kid Posted July 22, 2012 Author Share Posted July 22, 2012 When the injectors get power they click. So what could it be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rturbo 930 Posted July 22, 2012 Share Posted July 22, 2012 When the injectors get power they click. So what could it be? He's saying that just because they get power doesn't mean they work. They might be clogged or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s30kid Posted July 22, 2012 Author Share Posted July 22, 2012 They are not clogged. About a month ago I took them all out and did what the man at Pepboys told me to do witch was, soak them in carburetor cleaner and really clean them out. Then take a 7 volt power source and an old injector plug. Hook it up to a temporary button so that when you press the button the injector clicks open and when you release it closes. I cleaned them out and made sure they sprayed before putting them back on the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted July 22, 2012 Share Posted July 22, 2012 Could be a clogged fuel rail itself? Stock fuel pressure is like 35. Are you getting 15psi right after the fuel filter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s30kid Posted July 22, 2012 Author Share Posted July 22, 2012 I do not have a pressure gauge yet when I get one ill check though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted July 22, 2012 Share Posted July 22, 2012 How did they measure it at autozone? I'm talking about something like this: You can get a cheap plastic POS at autozone for like $15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s30kid Posted July 22, 2012 Author Share Posted July 22, 2012 yes but is 15 psi enough? I thought I needed 45 psi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted July 23, 2012 Share Posted July 23, 2012 No, you should have 30-35psi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s30kid Posted July 23, 2012 Author Share Posted July 23, 2012 The inline fuel pressure gauges at autozone only go to 15. Id have to get it online Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted July 23, 2012 Share Posted July 23, 2012 I thought they had a gauge that read higher. I know I place in Burbank where they had just the gauge for $25 or get this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Hydraulic-Liquid-Filled-Pressure-Gauge-0-60-PSI-/261069826488?pt=Pneumatic_Hydraulic_Valves_Parts&hash=item3cc8f969b8#ht_500wt_1287 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s30kid Posted July 23, 2012 Author Share Posted July 23, 2012 Ill go down to autozone and pepboys and see what they have. After I install it am I looking for 35psi while cranking the motor or after a few cranks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenG Posted July 24, 2012 Share Posted July 24, 2012 Couldn't you use one from Home Depot? I'm pretty sure they should have a pressure gauge that probably shows a max of 100psi or less. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calpoly-z Posted July 25, 2012 Share Posted July 25, 2012 First of all, stop taking advice from guys at pep boys and auto zone. Most of those guys have no real experience working on cars. They sell parts. That's it. Next, last time I was at auto zone or oriellys they had fuel injection test kits that you could rent that would have the gauge that you need. You will have to pay for it up front but your money will be refunded when its returned. If its not available, make one out of pipe parts and a cheap air pressure gauge from the hardware store. Finally, soaking your injectors in carb cleaner and then opening them with a 7 volt battery (where the hell did you find a 7 volt battery?) does not mean your injectors are clean and flowing properly. In fact you may have hurt them if you held them open too long. Rule #1 when diagnosing cars is never assume something is working properly just because it was working previously (especially when its been 2 months since the car ran and you just tried some homemade quick fix.) Now, verify you have constant fuel pressure when cranking. About 42 psi without vacuum on the regulator if I remember correctly. If so, verify injectors are firing with a noid light. Sounds like you did this though. Check and clean ALL electrical connectors under the hood, especially injectors, AFM, and coolant temp sensor. If that fails find an FSM and work through the troubleshooting checks. Just curious, why was the car not started for 2 months? Were you having issues with it running poorly or was there another reason? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted July 25, 2012 Share Posted July 25, 2012 If he did this first - If that fails find an FSM and work through the troubleshooting checks. He would know that 36 psi is the correct fuel pressure number - Now, verify you have constant fuel pressure when cranking. About 42 psi without vacuum on the regulator if I remember correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s30kid Posted July 25, 2012 Author Share Posted July 25, 2012 calpoly-z, you asked why the car hadn't been running in two months. The answer is I got my Z about 4 years ago from a friends junk yard. I'm not sure how long the car sat at the junk yard, but it was the junk yard owners car with the typical "ran when stored" background. When I got a hold of it, it sat in a garage where I casually tinkered with it when I had the time. Over the past few years I cured all the cancer, Pulled out all the dents, Sanded, Bondo, Primer, Paint. The paint is only 7 months old. Painted it myself, no crappy half-a**ed 1day paint shop. I got new rims and tires, And new radiator. Also I needed a EFI wiring harness so I bought one off of ebay that came with the ECU. Then I got my license and needed a car so I started the engine work. I Flushed out all the fuel lines, Replaced all the Rubber fuel line, New Engine Oil, Coolant, Plug Wires, and spark plugs. Started the car and it ran with a slight idle problem, But my AFM was shot so that was the partial cause. Also the hoses on my Fuel injectors themselves were leaking. Pretty badly too. That was the only thing keeping me from registering it and driving it. So I set aside a day to pull the whole Fuel rail off and replace the hoses plus make sure the metal lines weren't clogged, Clean the injectors from any gunk stuck in them. When I put it all back together, That's when the car stopped running. Or stopped holding idle. Along with the engine work i'm re-doing my interior, cleaning it up, repainting parts. New carpet, headliner, front seats and recovered back seat still to come. This car is going to be my Hopped up daily driver, but until then i'd like it if it just drove. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calpoly-z Posted July 25, 2012 Share Posted July 25, 2012 Did you replace your AFM? With one from the correct year? Not all of them have the fuel pump contacts in them. If you don't already have an FSM the link below has digital copies of them. In fact I sent this guy one of my FSM's to copy. http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s30kid Posted July 26, 2012 Author Share Posted July 26, 2012 Yes, the AFM is correct. Its a 76 AFM I bought right here on hybrid z. It works great, it does have the fuel pump switch inside and it works. I took a detailed look at my engine bay. Looked for all the cracked or missing smog hoses, looked at all the connections on the wiring harness as well as some poorly done wiring around the engine. I know that there are 2 hoses that connect to the back of the intake that go around the back of the engine to where the fusable links are located that need to be replaced. all the contacts need to be deep cleaned. And some wires going to the distributor and coil area are in need of replacing and making sure they are connected to the correct locations. ill take pictures tomorrow of the wires and hoses. take a trip to autozone for parts and wire connection cleaner. Ill keep updating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zbratt23 Posted August 14, 2012 Share Posted August 14, 2012 Just a thought, maybe the car runs with starting fluid because the fuel injectors are being told to shut off. Mine did this when the fuel injection ecu went bad, it happened suddenly, and soon as I plugged in one of my buddies ecu's she purred like a kitten again. Just take 30 seconds to check if you know someone with a running Z to swap with real quick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zbratt23 Posted August 14, 2012 Share Posted August 14, 2012 Just realized my predictive text made me sound like a grammatical idiot, my apologies! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s30kid Posted August 15, 2012 Author Share Posted August 15, 2012 I figured out the problem. It was pin #1 on my harness. It was not connected to the(-) side of the coil, which controls injectors opening and closing. I wired it up. Started right up. Has a little trouble revving, and initial warm up. But idles great. And when I say trouble revving, it feels like it is taking its sweet time to rev. I havnt driven it yet to get an accurate test. It needs breaks first. Hopefully it just needs a little breaking in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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