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High hp build questions


Sapper

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Hi, I'm currently working on collecting parts for a high horsepower rb26 swap into a 77 280z. The engine was pulled out of my r32 gtr, and had between 600 and 700 hp with a stock block and bottom end. The block had 180k km on it, so I decided to leave it and just bring back the head. I'm getting a n1 block and crank. I'm using a Chevy transmission and a ford 9 inch rear end with a cage. My hp plans are between 1000 and 1200, and I want it to be able to be driven on the streets. Not exactly daily driven, but I don't want to have to trailer it to the drag track and would like drive it medium distances, for example my mother in law lives about 125 miles away and I want to be able to drive it there.

 

I did a search, but wasn't able to find exactly what I was looking for. First, I don't know a whole lot about suspensions, since I'm doing a custom rear end, would springs/shocks be better or leaf springs? I know I want something stiffer to keep the tires from bouncing, but don't know if one is better than the other. Second, I'm getting a pair of slicks for the track, but how wide should I get for street tires? My gtr had 265 and I never had any tire spin, but it was awd and I'm adding quite a bit more hp. I have my old rims, they are 18x9, and I can fit 285r tires on them, but would that be wide enough for rwd and my hp plans?

 

Thanks for any help.

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If your running that kinda power and an automatic trans, I would think the stall convertor would be pretty insane and would be hard to street it. Not to mention 800whp in a S30 is insane anyway. A dyno queen is one thing but streetablity is another. If you looking at that kind of power i would just do a Rb30 block stroked to a 32 or a straight up rb30 with the 25 or 26 head.

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That's not really extreme power for an rb26, especially with a n1 block. Without changing my turbos, it has a pair of hks on it, can't remember the model number but they are a little bigger if any at all than stock, they just have steel fans instead of ceramic, I could probably squeeze out 900 to 1000. I haven't looked for one yet, but I'm going to be looking for a manual, not auto. I'll see what I find when the time comes though. If all you are looking for is 800 hp, you don't really need a 26, a built 25 will do that all day for a lot less money. I kept my 26 and sold my 25 because I wanted to build a monster.

 

Thanks for that link. It didn't completely answer my question, but it did point me in the direction of looking more generically and I found what I was looking for.

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N1 turbos are garbage, they would be a downgrade from what is already on it. They are hardly better than stock turbos. I'm replacing what I have with a pair of td06 turbos. Full spool will between 5 and 6 grand, and I'm going to redo the head so I can rev it to about 11000. I dont know why you assume I'm going cheap on this, I've already spent 6000, and when it's finished I will be surprised if I only spen another 20000.

 

And as far as being a dyno queen, I doubt the car will ever even see a dyno. The hp I'm expecting is a guess based on what the head already has done and what I'm planning on still doing before its finished. Final numbers might be closer to 900, or they might be around 1400.

 

But, since there are so many misinformed people here about the potential of the rb's, maybe I will dyno it when I'm done.

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Man thats funny , if you have 40+psi with a gt42 and 10000rpm it might get there , 1000+hp 26 is a nice dream , i have built more than 1 , dry sump and alc fuel and 55psi and 80k and rebuild very often , be real about your dream ,

 

 

I kinda agree. I have an honest 300hp rb25 in a 260Z. Its mildy fast. Having been in a 490hp RB25 S30 chassis I can say that is very fast as well. We are talking about very quick cars beyond that and even quicker in a lighter chassis S30 example 240z. Looking at Stony's car and RIPS cars that are closer to what your trying to do, id say honestly buy Stonys car. You will save money and get exactly what your after, though it be far from ever being really streetable. Those HP goals are just figures. Anything close to 500hp is probably gonna smoke about any mass produced stock car on the road and be streetable in an early Z. Shooting for a ridiculous power range is just smoke unless your in competition and/or have actually experienced a real car like that. Personally anything with that much power in these cars would scare me crapless. My personal goals for my own rb25 are set to build something that safe at 550hp, but I will just be happy with a really fast 260Z that in the end I built myself to my own standards even if I fall a hundred hp short. If you really want a 800-1000hp Z I would seriously contact Stony as he has stated he may want to sell his car(which is registered in Alaska already). The only downside is that you did not build it yourself, but its almost unanimously agreed that the car was built right.

 

gl

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The hp I'm expecting is a guess based on what the head already has done and what I'm planning on still doing before its finished. Final numbers might be closer to 900, or they might be around 1400.

 

But, since there are so many misinformed people here about the potential of the rb's, maybe I will dyno it when I'm done.

 

I have to ask - do you mean the horsepower guess is based on a previous guess, or based on a previous measurement? 600 to 700 HP measured?

 

And I only see one RB comment, from the one guy who seems to know more about making power than 99% of people who post on the internet. Who are the other "so many misinformed people"?

 

Just stirring the pot, but they're valid questions, I think.

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There isnt a dyno on Okinawa, so the 600 starting is a guess, but it's probably a low guess. The engine made enough power to, in this order, break the front half shaft twice, the driveshaft once, both engine mounts and the tranny mount, and the final death blow to the car, break the frame. The engine made a lot of very fun power, although it spent quite a bit of time broken in my driveway. The engine compartment had around 10k put in it when I bought the car, I got a hell of a deal on it.

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10K on a RB build is the tip of the iceburg. Hell i have that in a clutch, oil pump and the fuel system on mine... probably more than that.

Here maybe, but it was built in Japan. The guy that built it got parts from mainland for cheap. As an example, he got a replacement clutch for my wife's Evo 4 for $90, when before I met him I paid $1200 for the nismo clutch in my s-14. Basically everything was replaced except the bottom end internals and intake manifold. Also he didn't charge for labor, so that was all parts.

 

I have been toying with the idea of just getting the Jun 2.8 stroker kit instead of piecing together one, so that 20000 might quickly turn into 30000, but it's not like I'm in a huge hurry to finish it. Then again I might just keep the power under 800 and get it finished by next summer. I'll see what happens after I get the block.

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Thanks for that link. It didn't completely answer my question, but it did point me in the direction of looking more generically and I found what I was looking for.

 

Did you totally miss the first part that said "Read, read, read". There are enough RB drag cars out there to find your answers. BTW the last time I checked ZGad was in the 8's with a puny little 700 hp. Perhaps you should build a car that will hold up at the track First, then start adding the extra 300-500 horse power you seek.

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So I don't have to keep arguing whether or not it can be done, http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/115186-finnish-rb26-pushing-over-1000-hp.html

 

I knew someone in Okinawa with a proven 1300 hp r32 gtr. It can be done, and it can be very streetable. As I've already said, I don't have an exact hp goal, I know about what I'm starting with, I know most of the parts I'm replacing, and a good idea what I want to do with the rest. If it ends up being 800, I'll have a 800 hp street car. If its more it's more. My only goal is to still be able to drive it at least to the track.

 

And as far as huge power goes, can't remember which company makes it, but there is a 3000 hp turbo kit out there for the 26. If I can find it I'll edit with a link.

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I was wrong, the 3000 hp turbo kit isn't made for the 26, it's for big blocks. I know the stock block can't handle it, want to say it starts to crack at 1600, but a stock bore or titanium sleeved n1 maybe. But that's a whole lot more than I, or more than likely anyone else, would want to spend on one.

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Rips will build a Rb30 block all forged out for 7000. Thats what I will probably be doing shortly. If not that then maybe the Tomei 2.8 stroker, availability is about 1 month out on that. Brian Crower makes a 2.85 or a 2.95 stroker, if you want to max the stroke with that kit you have to sleeve the block and do the 87 or 87.5mm pistons if i remember right, which would leave you resleeving the block again if something ever happened. Keep in mind a 500whp S30 will outrun 600cc crotch rockets all day.

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Sapper, you don't seem to be getting the point. We aren't arguing about whether you can build the engine. Most of us are saying that you don't want 1000HP in an S30 chassis to be streetable. The R32 is a totally different machine. THERE IS VERY LITTLE CORRELATION!

 

Having driven a 450HP S30 on the street for a few days, I'm glad my car only has 200. I'm not as fast...but it is far less irritating to drive home from work in. I wouldn't even get in a 800HP street-driven S30. Not even to sit in the driver's seat in the parking lot.

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You guys should give the guys at McKinney motorsports a call. I talked to a guy a week or so ago with a 1600 hp twin turbo 350 in a z that he runs in the street class. They can handle the power no problem.

 

Just because you guys feel the need to floor it at every single light doesn't mean I do, I'm not 18 anymore. Having over 1000 hp in a street car doesn't mean I will be using all or even most every time I get in it. Grow up

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