s30kid Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 I'm looking to install this fuel rail - (http://www.coldfusioncnc.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=96&Itemid=178) I don't know much about fuel injection. Just that you need the right amount of pressure and gas to make the injectors fire. 36 psi My question is, What pressure regulator should I get? Because from my understanding everyone who installs one of these puts a regulator at the back near the firewall and that its necessary to have. I'm installing this on my stock 1977 280z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 Any adjustable pressure regulator will do the trick. You could even reuse the stock regulator if you wanted to, providing it's in good condition. I would just stray away from super cheap ones that come with gauges as those don't have a great track record of being accurate. Spend a few bucks more on something made with quality. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motomanmike Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 Did you get any idea how much he's asking for these? Most people mount regulators where they can bolt them up solid (firewall, fender well, frame rail etc) and can easily run fuel line too. Gollum is 100% right, you get what you pay for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 I know pallnet makes them, as well as cockerstar. They cost about $150 shipped to you and come with all the fitting needed. I know when I got mine I got the regular brass fittings, but when I actually put it together I opted to go SS for looks. Here is a cost breakdown: $150 for rail and rail fittins $120 for the FPR $60 in misc AN fittings $50 for the SS line $25 for an AN fuel filter I used this bad boy. No problems yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s30kid Posted July 31, 2012 Author Share Posted July 31, 2012 Well the one in the link comes with the hose fittings and he's only asking for $100. Ill just need to buy extra hose and clamps, a fuel pressure regulator and just tune it? For the regulator I was just thinking one off of a 78 Z like this... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-PR8-Fuel-Injection-Pressure-Regulator-Datsun-2-8L-/330752718125?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3A280Z&hash=item4d0265f52d&vxp=mtr#ht_2186wt_944 The pressure regulator on my 77 Z looks like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Nissan-Gas-Fuel-Injection-Pressure-Regulator-Part-/310309627726?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3A280Z&hash=item483fe5274e&vxp=mtr could I use this one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 If you're going to all the trouble of putting on a fuel rail, do you really want something that looks like that hanging near the firewall? If you have the cash just get an aeromotive or fuellab fpr. You don't really "tune" anything. Just prime it to get pressure up, start the car and adjust the fuel pressure while its running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s30kid Posted July 31, 2012 Author Share Posted July 31, 2012 well, at the moment I don't have 150 for a pressure regulator. I've got the one on my car or one off a 78. My fuel rail at the moment is shot. That's why instead of replacing it, why not upgrade it and never run into the same problem again. (plus i always wanted on of these rails) Could I use the '77 one? what parts would need to be blocked off? the 78 one would probably be easier to install too. it only has 3 hose connections. the 77 one has 4 connections. I work minimum wage so money isn't vary abundant.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yhlz Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 (edited) If you just need a replacement fuel rail, why not search your local Pick-n-Pull junk yards? It would save you the extra money. Edited July 31, 2012 by yhlz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indey Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 Funny, I'm in the process of doing this right now. I'm using a JSK Fuel Rail w/ Aeromotive gauge, and a Edlebrock FPR. Regardless, if you don't have the money to do it correctly the first time, then don't do it at all. As the others have suggested, get a replacement rail from a pick a part, and go from there. I understand wanting to upgrade to something better. However if you half ass it due to the lack of money, you'll regret it in the long run, and potentially run into more problems. Do it once and do it right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 Regardless, if you don't have the money to do it correctly the first time, then don't do it at all. You know, it's funny that I agree with you, but what most people are failing to grasp here as that for most people (even those sharing in this very thread) this is a COSMETIC modification. I love that a rail makes it easier to pull the injectors in the future, and that it can provide more stable flow if you're running HUGE injectors, but that simply isn't an issue for this guy. You're doin' it on the cheap. Mount the FPR UNDER the car next to the tranny if you're concerned about the looks, otherwise just find a way to bolt the OEM FPR in a convenient location. Just make sure to get the flow direction correct. The only reason I WOULDN'T go this route is that the OEM FPR's are known for not being reliable after 20+ years and I've replaced my fair share. I'd rather have something NEW and then verify it with a GAUGE than just take a shot in the dark with an unknown OEM. But if you engine was running fine and you're saving every dime, there's nothing mechanically saying you can't reuse the FPR you have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indey Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 While I agree it's a cosmetic modification, it does also simplify the system, that is a tad bit over complicated from the factory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 While I agree it's a cosmetic modification, it does also simplify the system, that is a tad bit over complicated from the factory. Again, I agree, the stock system is a bit complicated and a general pita to work on. I just firmly believe that there's nothing "wrong" with using an OEM FPR even if it's "ugly". For the most part I'm a Function>Form kind guy and couldn't give a hoot if a part is ugly if it's worth it. And in THIS particular case, I'd personally trust an OEM FPR over any ebay special FPR for under $50, even if it doesn't look as great. Those OEM FPR's have put over 300k on some L motors with no drama. I doubt the same could be said for those chinese specials you see at the bargain bin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indey Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 Again, I agree, the stock system is a bit complicated and a general pita to work on. I just firmly believe that there's nothing "wrong" with using an OEM FPR even if it's "ugly". For the most part I'm a Function>Form kind guy and couldn't give a hoot if a part is ugly if it's worth it. And in THIS particular case, I'd personally trust an OEM FPR over any ebay special FPR for under $50, even if it doesn't look as great. Those OEM FPR's have put over 300k on some L motors with no drama. I doubt the same could be said for those chinese specials you see at the bargain bin. Oh I agree completely, I'd much rather run an OEM one over a cheap eBay junk one. Function is essential, the car has to work, because let's face it, how cool can you look broken down on the side of the road? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sidewaz Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-280z-Aluminum-Fuel-Rail-/160856645688?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2573cda038#ht_500wt_1202 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 Please explain from an Engineering Standpoint how the rail is 'over complicated'? I can explain to you why the large diameter SINGLE FEED rail needs such large volume though! The stock rail works in a simple loop to feed the injectors from TWO ENDS with pressure regulation in the middle, meaning only three injectors are pulsing on a branch fed by the line. Now, if these whiz-bang aftermarket rails had a center-return regulator and dual feed arrangement, maybe it would be an improvement over stock... But for a stock engine it's a retrograde step in terms of injector feed... Pressure fluctuations in the system are much bigger. Get a good piezio pressure sensor and hook it to an o-scope and run it on a dyno on a STOCK car in both configurations and I think you will understand what I'm saying, and why I'm saying it! Sometimes the engineers that designed the thing actually did know what they were doing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben's Z Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 Tony, I'd like a billet fuel rail, but understand what you are saying. Should I buy some of that fuel stock and cut it in half with two feed lines coming off of a TEE on my future Bell RRFPR and then another TEE tying the two lines together for the return line? Can I eliminate the return line and dead head the rail? Please explain from an Engineering Standpoint how the rail is 'over complicated'? I can explain to you why the large diameter SINGLE FEED rail needs such large volume though! The stock rail works in a simple loop to feed the injectors from TWO ENDS with pressure regulation in the middle, meaning only three injectors are pulsing on a branch fed by the line. Now, if these whiz-bang aftermarket rails had a center-return regulator and dual feed arrangement, maybe it would be an improvement over stock... But for a stock engine it's a retrograde step in terms of injector feed... Pressure fluctuations in the system are much bigger. Get a good piezio pressure sensor and hook it to an o-scope and run it on a dyno on a STOCK car in both configurations and I think you will understand what I'm saying, and why I'm saying it! Sometimes the engineers that designed the thing actually did know what they were doing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meister2020 Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 you could probably just drill a hole in the middle with a 90 degree fitting in the middle of the fuel rail instead of completely splitting it, use the 90 for the inlet and plug the original unless you want you run an outlet there as well. if you do run the outlet through the inlet T the hoses off before the pressure regulator. i haven't tried this yet but is my plan for my 78 280. either that or a duel rail setup, haven't decided which way to go though. btw does anyone know where i can get a fuel rail that mounts up to the L28 without modification and matching injectors? i'm looking for injectors that don't need the fuel hoses clamped on the the fuel rail and injectors to clean it up a bit and reduce maint on the system but i need to find both. also does anyone know if an AEM FPR will work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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