~KnuckleDuster~ Posted April 11, 2015 Author Share Posted April 11, 2015 (edited) So I've decided to change directions completely. I was at a point where it would take mega squirt or some other form of engine management to get my motor running up to par. The excessively long warm ups and lack of tuning ability was ruining the fun I could have been having with the car so it sat in the garage and was rarely brought out to play. The choice was to mega squirt an already aging motor that would just be waiting for the next road block OR go with a different motor entirely. As much as I love a turbo car there is something about N/A that's just more pure..and reliable. I opted for an RB25DE again. It reminds me of a modernized version of the 432 240z, dual over head cam and all the modern touches while keeping true to the n/a straight six heritage. I had put a DE motor from an R33 in my previous 71 Z project in 2008: This time around I found a RB25DE NEO motor out of a 99-02 R34 Skyline. The differences are roughly 200hp vs 185hp in the R33, solid lifters rather than hydraulic, revised camshafts, with on/off solenoid Variable VCT, a hotter 82 °C thermostat, model-specific coil packs and a revised inlet manifold (the runner diameter is reduced from 50mm to 45mm to increase air velocity and low end torque) in particular the RB25DE NEO which had two inlets going into the inlet manifold. The combustion chamber of the head is smaller so GT-R spec connecting rods are used to compensate as well as model-specific pistons. All in all they are quite a different engine in their own right - a culmination of 20 years of Nissan RB engine building rolled into one. (stolen from wiki) Here she is: The sound of it is intoxicating Edited July 29, 2016 by ~KnuckleDuster~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terse Posted April 11, 2015 Share Posted April 11, 2015 very nice! did you do the install yourself or did you have a shop do it? and where did you source your engine from? which engine/trans mount did you go with? sorry for all the questions haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted April 11, 2015 Author Share Posted April 11, 2015 very nice! did you do the install yourself or did you have a shop do it? and where did you source your engine from? which engine/trans mount did you go with? sorry for all the questions haha I have a local shop I go to for the big stuff like this. The engine came from http://www.sunrisejapanese.com/ I paid right around $1700 shipped for it and I've parted out most of my motor and made $2000, so far so good. Ill be going with the Mckinney mounts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted April 19, 2015 Author Share Posted April 19, 2015 Got some new parts in. Plugs, pcv valve with gasket, rear main seal, magnetic oil drain plug, alt & water pump pulley. Cleaned out the trans and have the new clutch and flywheel on the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted April 22, 2015 Author Share Posted April 22, 2015 Clutch kit arrived. Flywheel is 14.8 lbs. I would have liked to get an extra pound or two off that but this should do just fine. The plan is to get an aluminum driveshaft as well if all goes according to plan. I want this thing to rev nice and freely! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winstonusmc Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 What header you going with? I tried the Fujitsubo header and there is nowhere near the room. I am thinking just fabbing one up. Not long before I attempt the RB25 install again. Had to put it on hold when I left San Diego. Thats ok, got to drive my Z 500 miles on MS3 and L28ET power. Fun times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted April 24, 2015 Author Share Posted April 24, 2015 The only one I can find that isn't 600 + is this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/261244814957?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT It looks like the one I had before which barely fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winstonusmc Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 I ran the Coby header from New Zealand in an S14, which some have used in an S30 with a little adjustment. That header you are talking about has similar design and price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winstonusmc Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 (edited) Deleted Edited April 24, 2015 by winstonusmc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted April 26, 2015 Author Share Posted April 26, 2015 I ran the Coby header from New Zealand in an S14, which some have used in an S30 with a little adjustment. That header you are talking about has similar design and price. Nice. Yeah it's most likely a Coby knock off. To get the last one to fit I had to cut about 6-8 inches off the end and cut a small piece of the motor mount off. Then I was using different motor mounts which didn't have the motor as far back as it will be with the Mckinney mounts. I'm hoping that means a better fit for the header this time around but I'm betting I will still have to shorten it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MidnightRider Posted April 26, 2015 Share Posted April 26, 2015 Whatever happened to the splitter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted April 26, 2015 Author Share Posted April 26, 2015 (edited) The 3.3 ratio R180 diff is going to give the car terribly long gears so I picked up this R200 w/ half shafts from an 82 ZX n/a with a 3.9 ratio, just need to collect up the other bits needed for the swap. Gave it a coat of POR15 and will eventually shine the cover up some too. R200 Mustache Bar with Poly Bushings, powdercoated lime green (not by me!) Edited January 14, 2016 by ~KnuckleDuster~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted April 26, 2015 Author Share Posted April 26, 2015 Whatever happened to the splitter? I still have it, plan on putting it back on. I need to revise some of the mounting points. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winstonusmc Posted May 24, 2015 Share Posted May 24, 2015 Worked on your harness a good bit today. I will make a list of things that will need to be done on the car to get a complete install. The check engine light wire is there with the necessary power wire, all you need is a light from an auto store. Also, the "check" wire from the diagnostics port is labeled with the necessary power wire, which will allow the check engine light to blink the codes when connected. All you need for that is a momentary button to connect the two wires. Things that are done: 1) removed all unnecessary wires (ABS, A/C, windshield wiper) 2) labeled all under dash wires (diagnostics, check engine light, tach, ign on, temp sensor, fuel pump, start signal) 3) separated knock sensor, backup light, and alternator connectors from lower harness Things yet to do: 1) wire up 3 relays with fuses for power 2) change temp sensor connector to work with the L24/26/28 sensor 3) run a power wire for everything that connects to the battery lug on starter (hidden in harness) 4) re wrap some of the untouched harness for looks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted May 25, 2015 Author Share Posted May 25, 2015 Looks so much cleaner than before! Couldn't do it without the true gurus like yourself! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted June 2, 2015 Author Share Posted June 2, 2015 Extractors came in today, will need a fresh coat of paint, or maybe header wrap them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cbb Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 Extractors came in today, will need a fresh coat of paint, or maybe header wrap them? Now THAT'S beauty. Since you're sticking with NA, are you going to stay with the stock RB25DE TB setup, or go all out with an ITB setup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted June 3, 2015 Author Share Posted June 3, 2015 Now THAT'S beauty. Since you're sticking with NA, are you going to stay with the stock RB25DE TB setup, or go all out with an ITB setup? I plan on staying with the stock tb and intake manifold for a while. ITB's are definately out of my budget at the moment but I love the idea of it. winstonusmc has a really nice itb set-up on his rb25de. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cbb Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 I plan on staying with the stock tb and intake manifold for a while. ITB's are definately out of my budget at the moment but I love the idea of it. winstonusmc has a really nice itb set-up on his rb25de. They're definitely high up there. I've seen some ITB setups around and they're pretty sweet. I actually just took a look at his, and it's definitely a cool get up. Aside from that, thought about doing both paint and wrap? I've always thought about doing so, rather than just using titanium wrap, doing both, I would imagine, makes it so that any moisture trapped will be held in between the paint and the wrap. Wouldn't have to worry about rusting out the headers, then again I don't know how you'll be able to cure the paint though, and I've only ever thought about it, without much more thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winstonusmc Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 (edited) Too bad Nissan changed the flange in between the RB25 and 26. My ITB setup is on a 26 head though. Boy were the velocity stacks expensive though. Edited June 3, 2015 by winstonusmc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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