PR280z Posted August 26, 2012 Share Posted August 26, 2012 In my 280zx I run Valvoline VR1 20w-50, the conventional kind. That engine was rebuilt with forged pistons, but I'm using stock ECU and such. In my old 260z with webers I used to run Royal Purple 10w-40 on a fresh rebuild. VR1 20w-50 for my turbo also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srgunz Posted August 28, 2012 Share Posted August 28, 2012 Go by John Coffey's post number 6. You have an old motor that is loose as a goose. Do not waste money on these expensive oils. Will do you no good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryan95i4 Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 VR1 20w-50 for my turbo also. Same here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 I've changed my mind! The best oil is anything from Motul! 'Course, it looks like I'm going to be a Motul dealer, but that had nothing to do with me changing my mind... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 I've changed my mind! The best oil is anything from Motul! 'Course, it looks like I'm going to be a Motul dealer, but that had nothing to do with me changing my mind... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 I've changed my mind! The best oil is anything from Motul! 'Course, it looks like I'm going to be a Motul dealer, but that had nothing to do with me changing my mind... I'm converted! I've been changed, born again even! John, when can I order some Motul oil from you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 For a street L6 I would run the Valvoline VR-1, as it has High zinc/phosphorus content, and is reasonably inexpensive. Pick the weight according to the climate you live in. For my vintage racer I use the Brad Penn 20W50. Sticky, gooey, good stuff. If you buy by the case, not too expensive. The Joe Gibbs is probably just as good, but I think Joe is getting a big chunk of the purchase price as his name is on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozconnection Posted September 2, 2012 Share Posted September 2, 2012 I now use Prad Penn 20w-50 too. I was sold on the higher zinc content, something that's important so I've been told. A close mate of mine who runs an 800hp small block in his race car swears by it too. Good enough for me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyler031734 Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 (edited) In my 280zx I run Valvoline VR1 20w-50, the conventional kind. That engine was rebuilt Why so thick BluDestiny? What is your pressure like? Cold/Hot. EDIT: now I read the rest of the thread and see a lot of people are running 20w/50w? Isn't that a bit hard to push through the oil galleys? The thinner it is the more oil you get over your parts, returning to the pan faster and remaining cooler due to a few factors. my 0.02 Edited September 10, 2012 by tyler031734 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 Why so thick BluDestiny? What is your pressure like? Cold/Hot. EDIT: now I read the rest of the thread and see a lot of people are running 20w/50w? Isn't that a bit hard to push through the oil galleys? The thinner it is the more oil you get over your parts, returning to the pan faster and remaining cooler due to a few factors. my 0.02 It really depends on your application and the ambient temperature you run at. If you run at all in cool weather, no need for 20W50. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oblithian Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 (edited) So I've been running 10W-30 for about a year and a half with no issues. However, in Australia they mainly run 60 weight oil, and the late-80s L28 Patrols run 10w-40. Is the low viscosity going to increase wear? Also, would it be worthwhile moving to 5W-30 in the winter (if it is often -20 Celsius or colder)? Not that 10W would even matter if you can run 20w-60 at -3 degrees.... Edited December 15, 2016 by Oblithian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S30Stig Posted December 8, 2016 Share Posted December 8, 2016 Because there aren't enough options for you to choose from already, I run Joe Gibbs Driven conventional 10w-40 break-in or hot rod oil on recommendation from my engine builder. I have a Datsun Spirit 2.7L 'stage 1' motor and the car seems very happy with that syrup. It is $10-11 a quart off amazon and supposedly the 'hot rod' oil is the 'brake-in' oil with a different label for the same price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rundwark Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 Maxima Racing Oils makes a nice conventional oil that has higher zinc content than Valvoline VR1 and costs less. I'm running their 10W40 in my L-series: http://www.maximausa.com/product/performance/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowlerMonkey Posted April 8, 2017 Share Posted April 8, 2017 Been swapping from rotella 15w40 and castrol standard 20w50. Staying now with 20w50 since all my stuff is now super high mileage. At another forum is a good text only post of test results. This same testing lies elsewhere and has pretty pictures but it loaded with advertisements in between. http://www.speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=31363 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacky4566 Posted May 5, 2017 Share Posted May 5, 2017 Using Rotella T6 5-40. Good stuff but the detergents are so strong i actually developed new leaks in the old engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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