J-hop Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 (edited) Hi everyone,so i've run into a snag on my project car. The car is currently missing all brake lines downstream of the brake distribution block. I was hoping to find a pre-bent kit but I can't seem to find one. The closest I got was a mention of "classic tube" in an old thread but it appears they no longer sell their pre-bent kit for the 240z (unless I'm looking in the wrong spot?). Are there any companies selling pre-bent kits? (I am not concerned about pricing) My next option if there are no companies selling pre bent kits I would think would be to buy pre-flared lines (as I don't trust myself to make good flares) and bend them to fit. Black dragon does sell what they claim to be lines properly flared for the Z application in different lengths (page 89: http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/ZR/full.aspx?Page=89 ). My question is are these quality lines and the correct flare/fittings as they claim to be. Not to bad mouth black dragon as I've had some great experiences with them, but after a few bad experiences with product quality (motor mounts with incorrect threads and pins cast in the wrong position for example) I am wary of purchasing safety critical items like brake lines from them. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Edited October 21, 2012 by J-hop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emeraldlion Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 I bought pre-flared lines at OReily auto. I am not sure if they have real long ones s I was doing the pre-dist block but I bet you can order them. They had the correct flare and nut. I think they were generic japanese brake lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snailed Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 If price is not an issue, just buy a quality flaring tool and make them yourself. Flaring is only hard if you have crappy tools. The good tools are very easy to use and fast too. Then you can just go to the auto parts store and buy a mess of tube nuts and a roll of line. I would strongly recommend cunifer/ copper-nickle tubing. It's very easy to work with and lasts longer than steel and it's cheap. $35 for 25 feet of 3/16". Figure about $200 for a really nice flaring tool and ~$75 for supplies and you will be able to make brake and fuel lines whenever you need. That's what I would do anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 Bend & flare them yourself. It sucks at first but every one you do will be better than the last one. By the time you are done, you'll be a pro and have hands like a gorilla! Buy a $25 roll of 3/16 line tubing cutter and a flaring tool. Use a vice and watch a few videos on YouTube. Start with the short lines. Plan on buying a few flaring tools as they are cheap and fall apart. Luckily the z has all female flares and no bubble flares. YouTube search double flare. Double flare is less likely to crack. I know from experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six_Shooter Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 I also suggest learning to flare the line yourself. You'll likely find that even if you buy pre-flared lines, that at some point you will need to cut a line shorter to fit, which will require a flare, or one of the supplied flares isn't right and leaks, requiring you to re-flare the line. Also piecing together shorter pre-fared lines can not only get expensive, due to the need for multiple couplers, but also has more potential for leaks, that using a roll of tubing and flaring each end at the correct length. Don't forget about a good quality tube bender as well, it makes for nice radiused bends, and some small line doesn't like to bend nicely without the use of a bender. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-hop Posted October 21, 2012 Author Share Posted October 21, 2012 (edited) Thanks for the suggestions so far, just did a quick search and am looking at this flaring tool: http://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html Any comments on the quality of this tool? I am still not confident flaring my own lines but i guess with snow on the ground i've got several months to learn! Edited October 21, 2012 by J-hop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six_Shooter Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 I haven't used the one you linked to, so I can't comment on it, but I do own and use one of these (sold under the MAC name brand though); http://www.eastwood.com/universal-hydraulic-flaring-kit.html It's the best flaring tool I have ever used, and is one of the few that will do the special Ford and GM fuel injection style flares (Something I do every so often). The hydraulic aspect to it really saves the forearms and cuts down on the time needed to make a good flare. You can also use it in hard t reach areas, while the line is attached to the vehicle, when doing repairs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snailed Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 I haven't used the one you linked to, so I can't comment on it, but I do own and use one of these (sold under the MAC name brand though); http://www.eastwood.com/universal-hydraulic-flaring-kit.html It's the best flaring tool I have ever used, and is one of the few that will do the special Ford and GM fuel injection style flares (Something I do every so often). The hydraulic aspect to it really saves the forearms and cuts down on the time needed to make a good flare. You can also use it in hard t reach areas, while the line is attached to the vehicle, when doing repairs. That's a good one (bad price though, it's around $320 other places) and the one I usually use at work. We use it a lot and have gone through two sets of hydraulic seals though. You can also use some of the dies to make a nice bead for a rubber hose to go over even though the directions don't mention that. J-hop, your link is the one I had in mind for you. The only problem might be using it to flare a line that is already in place on the car, which probably won't matter for what you are doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six_Shooter Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 That's a good one (bad price though, it's around $320 other places) and the one I usually use at work. We use it a lot and have gone through two sets of hydraulic seals though. You can also use some of the dies to make a nice bead for a rubber hose to go over even though the directions don't mention that. J-hop, your link is the one I had in mind for you. The only problem might be using it to flare a line that is already in place on the car, which probably won't matter for what you are doing. Yeah, I didn't pay that much for mine, around $450 CDN IIRC, off the MAC truck. Funny you mention making small bulbs for rubber hose, I've always used the beginning of a double flare for that, manual or hydraulic flaring tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snailed Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 Funny you mention making small bulbs for rubber hose, I've always used the beginning of a double flare for that, manual or hydraulic flaring tool. That works well, good tip. I was thinking of the quick disconnect dies which make nice beads that are held back from the end of the tube a little bit. That is nice if you are trying to slip on something reinforced like fuel injection hose. Both good things to remember. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 When you get your tool, cut about 10 four inch lengths of brake line and flare each end. Once you get through 20 flares you'll be able to do in in your sleep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-hop Posted October 23, 2012 Author Share Posted October 23, 2012 When you get your tool, cut about 10 four inch lengths of brake line and flare each end. Once you get through 20 flares you'll be able to do in in your sleep. good idea. I think I'll do practice flares until I don't want to flare another brake line in my life... then do a few more and after that I'll try the final product. After watching a few youtube videos I'm a little more confident I can do this. Thanks for the suggestions, I will keep you guys posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RACERZ Posted October 23, 2012 Share Posted October 23, 2012 Dont forget to lube the fittings befor you begin to flare them it will make a slicker product. Also use old coat hangers to figure out you bends befor you start bending the tube (we were repluming the race car and had a few bend going 90 deg wrong and had to start over. It will save you some time and cash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarkspeed Posted October 23, 2012 Share Posted October 23, 2012 I say buy the pre-flaired lines. Available locally in most any size you need in 3/16 Dia. Standard unions for long runs and standard tees easy to get. Just buy some standard to metric adapters to convert the ends. Save yourself a bundle. Unless you are restoring to concourse level. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heavy85 Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 I went both directions. Started with prelared lines from the farm store then cut one end to length and reflared that end. The cheap tools from Autozone arent worth your time as they dont work well and strip out. Replaced with a kit from NAPA ($100ish if memory serves) and it makes much better flares. From my limited experience either it leaks right away when you bleed the brakes or it seals good and doesnt have a problem. Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarolinaTZ Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 I can agree with making/flaring your own lines. My car sat in storage for many years so I decided to make my own lines and while I had never made brake lines, it went great. Part of the reason is using Cunifer...I totally agree with Snailed....the stuff is softer than steel so it bends, flares and seals very well and is very forgiving. It was developed by Volvo to be used as brake lines and it won't corrode like steel. Taking your time, following directions carefully and having an eye for detail (to get the flares right) and you will be able to make them yourself. Keep us posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreenState Posted November 2, 2012 Share Posted November 2, 2012 That Eastwood tool is awesome! I bought one of the cheap flaring sets and did nothing but waste time and make awful looking flares. I returned it and ordered the Eastwood. I've had nothing but perfect results ever since the first flare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-hop Posted November 10, 2012 Author Share Posted November 10, 2012 Thanks for the additional replies, the Eastwood tools just went on sale so I will order them pretty soon here. I have two more questions that google doesn't seem to return the answer on: My car is missing the rear brake line T. Now with my 73 I believe I have the proportioning valve up in the engine bay mounted on the firewall so the rear T should be exactly that, just a simple T. The nissan T appears to be out of production and not available anywhere as far as I can tell. I attempted to search up a generic T through sites such as fedhill but the only one I can find for a double flare are 12mm x1.0 not the 10mm I require. Any options that others are aware of? Second; the 10mm double flare fittings from fedhill come in either long or short(will update with link later), any idea which one to use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 Get the tee fitting from a junkyard. Either flare nut is fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-hop Posted November 11, 2012 Author Share Posted November 11, 2012 Get the tee fitting from a junkyard. Either flare nut is fine. ah, could be hard, Zs don't come through the junk yards in my city. The closest we get are zx's every once in a blue moon and I saw one anomalous 510 that came through a year or two ago. Might have to find someone parting their car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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