Dan_Austin Posted December 17, 2013 Share Posted December 17, 2013 Check the temperature rating of the Pro. It gets real hot under the hood, and every previous ECU in the MS family including the Microsquirt had strict warnings about installing in the engine bay. With the long stub harnesses you have you can reach anywhere under the dash for a very neat install. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted December 17, 2013 Author Share Posted December 17, 2013 The instructions say up to 176 degrees f. i do not have a battery so it will be place on the inner fender wall in the battery tray. The unit actually monitors the internal temperature. The big deal about the MS3 pro is that they made it for extreme conditions. I laid it out last night putting it there. I will look tonight about putting it inside as well If i can put it up under the dash somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
78zstyle Posted December 19, 2013 Share Posted December 19, 2013 Don't put it under your hood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted December 28, 2013 Author Share Posted December 28, 2013 (edited) Well I found a 92 Nissan Sentra SE-R in Atlanta. Went and got it. Had to fix the door latch and replace the a/c compressor. Running great!! So decided to paint the rims with plasti-dip and put coil overs. Thanks dad for the new suspension! Tried this combo... Did not like that so painted the whole wheel. Edited May 5, 2015 by tooquick260 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted January 3, 2014 Author Share Posted January 3, 2014 Holiday's and no work for the last 2 weeks has put a hold on the Z. Enjoying my driver though. I will hopefully get onto the MS3PRO soon. My dad will help and he has worked everyday but Xmas and New Years for the past 3 weeks. Plans are to remove the dash. Fix the cracks. I am going to put the AEM a/f gauge in the clock hole. I have decided to make another gauge hole between the tach and temp gauge. This will be formed just like the stock holes, hopefully it will look the same. Will take some time. I will put the AEM tru-boost gauge there. I will be fixing the heater control valve at the same time, it leaks. Replace the air duct hoses that are cracked. I will also be planning the reinstallation of the a/c. It does get hot here in Florida. Figure while I have the car down can handle all these issues at once. I will be deciding where to place the MS3PRO then. Without the dash I should be able to find a place for it under the dash. Figuring that there are a lot more wires in the harness than I will be using , best place to hide is in the car. Wires from ecu.... 1 wire for fuel pump 1 wire for crank signal 1 wire for AIT 1 wire for 3 bar map 6 wires for injetors 6 wires for coils 12 ground wires 1 wire for coolant tem 1 wire for cylinder head temp 1 wire for knock sensor I think thats it. There are alot more wires than that in the harness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan_Austin Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 You missed a few- 1 wire sensor ground (OK, this might be in your 12) 1 +5v ref used for MAP and TPS 1 for TPS 1 or 2 for Idle control 1 Boost controller (if you want it) 1 or 2 for e-fan control 1 for CAM sensor 1 for O2 sensor You won't be using the cylinder head temp sensor, so you get that one back. The ECU connectors used on the MS3pro are very, very easy to add or remove wires from. So I recommend making a list of what you need under the hood, what you might want and actually do in the near future and what you likely will not use. With that list you can remove wires you will not be using from the harness. When looking for a place to put the ECU, keep in mind that you will likely need to remove it in the future, or mod the harness. High and center behind the dash would be clean, but a PITA later. Depending on the connector height the factory ECU location behind the kick panel might be viable, provide easy access and be hidden in plain sight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted January 3, 2014 Author Share Posted January 3, 2014 You missed a few- 1 wire sensor ground (OK, this might be in your 12) 1 +5v ref used for MAP and TPS 1 for TPS 1 or 2 for Idle control 1 Boost controller (if you want it) 1 or 2 for e-fan control 1 for CAM sensor 1 for O2 sensor You won't be using the cylinder head temp sensor, so you get that one back. The ECU connectors used on the MS3pro are very, very easy to add or remove wires from. So I recommend making a list of what you need under the hood, what you might want and actually do in the near future and what you likely will not use. With that list you can remove wires you will not be using from the harness. When looking for a place to put the ECU, keep in mind that you will likely need to remove it in the future, or mod the harness. High and center behind the dash would be clean, but a PITA later. Depending on the connector height the factory ECU location behind the kick panel might be viable, provide easy access and be hidden in plain sight. Will not use the boost control for now. E-fans on separate own relay for now. No cam sensor. Forgot the O2 sensor though. Also have power for the ps3pro to hook up. Good Idea for future reference and yes don't want it totally hidden for future usage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 The instructions say up to 176 degrees f. i do not have a battery so it will be place on the inner fender wall in the battery tray. The unit actually monitors the internal temperature. The big deal about the MS3 pro is that they made it for extreme conditions. I laid it out last night putting it there. I will look tonight about putting it inside as well If i can put it up under the dash somewhere. It can get hotter than that under a hood, and if the ambient temperature is that hot, that leaves nowhere for the unit to dump its heat while operating, so its temperature can rise higher than that easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan_Austin Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 On the topic of a cam sensor, if you have a 82/83 turbo CAS (distributor) you already have a workable solution for cam and crank position. The MS3Pro should be able to use the stock 360/6 CAS wheel, but it absolutely can use the DIY CAS wheel that appears to ECU to be a 12-1 wheel, and is perfect for full sequential. Even if you think you will never move past wasted spark to sequential I'd run that one extra wire in the beginning instead of fighting to fish it in later if you do change your mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted January 4, 2014 Author Share Posted January 4, 2014 I have the DIY CAS wheel. I know that there are 2 signals that come out of the distributor. The green/white is the signal. Do I use the other as well with the DIY CAS? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan_Austin Posted January 4, 2014 Share Posted January 4, 2014 I had to dig a bit, http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/102891-whod-be-interested-if-we-made-a-l28et-trigger-wheel/page-7?do=findComment&comment=977997 , shows the wire color and purpose of each lead on the CAS, as well as how I installed the pull up resisters. The photo is of the CAS wiring harness after I replaced the factory connector with a weather-pak. I've been running it just like that for 18 months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted January 4, 2014 Author Share Posted January 4, 2014 (edited) I have the factory harness for the distributor with the round mail/female plug. I was going to use that and then connect the wires via soldering them in and using the resistors at the coupler. The wires I have coming out of the harness side after the 280zxt factory connector are. Black/white, Black, Green/black and Green/yellow. Given that black is ground. I know that Black/white is 12v power to distributor. I can then pull distributor out and spin it to see which wire gives crank or cam signals. Supposedly the cam will give more signals or faster than the crank. But I think the Green/yellow is the crank which leads to the Green/black as the cam. Dang I need to get started on this. Edited May 5, 2015 by tooquick260 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted January 14, 2014 Author Share Posted January 14, 2014 (edited) I have been procrastinating a lot. Got a new job and hopefully will be paying attention. I have decided to put the Megasquirt computer behind the passenger seat. Run the wires under the carpet to the passenger firewall back into the engine compartment. What I have done is removed the dash to fix the cracks. Also I am putting the AEM gauges in the dash. I am taking out the clock and putting the Air/Fuel gauge there. I am also putting a new hole in the dash to hold the AEM tru-boost gauge. My process has been cut out the cracked areas. Fill with expanding foam. Cut down. Sand. Fill with body filler. The new hole has been a little more involved. I cut a piece of aluminum into a triangle shape about 4 inches wide. Bent into an arch. I then cut a arched slit in the dash and pushed the sharp edge of the aluminum into the slit. This gives me a form to attach the spray foam onto, shape and then cover in body filler. Plan is to primer the finished product then paint with bedliner paint. Edited May 5, 2015 by tooquick260 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted January 15, 2014 Author Share Posted January 15, 2014 (edited) Made some progress today. I install the warning light from the knock sensor in the vacant accessory hole of the center ventilation panel. Here is the knock sensor controller. Mounted it under the dash. Mounted the coil pack on the battery tray. Now look at the wiring mess. I have wired the tach, power to fuel pump relay from ecu, 12v ignition on relayed to ecu, knock sensor, 02 sensor and 12v hot to the injectors. I am wiring for function for now. Once the car is up and running I will redo them neatly. Man there are a lot of grounds to run. Edited May 5, 2015 by tooquick260 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted January 17, 2014 Author Share Posted January 17, 2014 (edited) Worked on the heater control valve. Edited May 5, 2015 by tooquick260 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted January 19, 2014 Author Share Posted January 19, 2014 (edited) Duplicate Edited May 5, 2015 by tooquick260 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted January 25, 2014 Author Share Posted January 25, 2014 (edited) Duplicate Edited May 5, 2015 by tooquick260 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey240z Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 (edited) Cool build!!! If u dont mong me asking, what paint did you use? everything i have found chips or flakes off when touched. Edited January 26, 2014 by mikey240z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted January 26, 2014 Author Share Posted January 26, 2014 I used the Dupli-color bed armor. Worked well. Did about 6 light coats over the primer. Primer was a base of etching primer, then 3 coats of filler primer during the forming of the new gauge hole. For adhesion the last sanding was done with 180 grit for a good profile. I hope it doesnt flake off. The patching on the cracked areas turned out OK. i would next time take more of the dash material out and used more of the expanding foam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh280z Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 I like the idea of plasti dip for the dash it's been working out great for me. Just throwing that idea out there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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