mistah mofro Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 I have a l24 with triple mikunis that will not get going for the life of me. After changing out my plugs and cap I finally got the motor to idle fine and turnover in one try. Problem now is when I try to give the car gas it falls right on its face like no other and cant get pick rpms at all. I did a compression test to make sure I didnt have a BHG but it was 115-120 across the board so that checked out. Another thing is I'm running a Carter pump that runs a constant 7psi without a regulator so I'm thinking maybe the cylinders are getting floaded at full throttle? Can my timing be off although I have now a pretty smooth idle? If anyone is in the San Francisco area that cant help me diagnose this problem it would be much appreciated! Let me know if you need anymore info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kurbycar32 Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 you gotta start with the basics: You said your car idles: Verify and fix your fuel pressure. i believe you should be around 4 psi but i don't have mikuni's so you need to verify that Check for vacuum leaks Check the timing and adjust if needed Balance your carbs at idle After you have your idle established you can adjust the carb tuning and possibly jetting. When a car falls on its face after idle that usually means the gap between the idle and main jets is too much, the fuel needs to come on smooth on a nice curve (fuel curve, not fuel cliff). Having the fuel pressure off will mess with all of this so you need to take care of the above list first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 Way too much pressure-get a regulator. You will be chasing your tail if you don't correct that first. 3-5lbs max I have a thread here and on classic Z that might cover the basics for you. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistah mofro Posted June 18, 2013 Author Share Posted June 18, 2013 (edited) My setup was in another car and ran perfectly fine without a regulator before and my jets are stock which ran perfectly fine throughout the rpm range (carbs rebuilt aswell) . Only difference now is I have a e12-80 and rewired the car with EZ wire kit. Are the e12-80s clocked differently? Compiling info so when I work on it this week I can know what to look for. Theres no vacuum leaks remaining since we just put in new intake/exhaust gasket which was the only place I had a leak. Edited June 18, 2013 by mistah mofro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bone028 Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 What happens when you rev the car in neutral? Are you 100% sure your linkage isn't binding in any weird way? What is your timing at idle? Have you checked for synchronization? I'm curious about your statement that you transferred the complete setup from another car...engine swapped over as well? Lots of things could be the culprit to what you say is poor performance...but some More specific descriptions would be great. Such as: "when I'm in first gear at 1500 rpm and give 50% throttle, the car bucks and stalls out" or "in 2nd gear at 2200 rpm, and I floor it, the car stutters for about 1.5 seconds and then will stall out unless I put the clutch in". Etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 $50 says dirty fuel tank. Check your filters and banjo fittings for sludge or chunks. If they are clean, blow some compressed air thru the hard lines back toward the tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistah mofro Posted June 19, 2013 Author Share Posted June 19, 2013 Car doesnt buck at all it kinda just flat lines dont matter if its 25%-100% car just doesnt go anywhere or rev up at all, I'll take a video next time to sum things up since no matter what gear (even neutral) I'm in it doesn't rev up at all, Although I did noticed my distributor drive shaft has my dizzy at more of a 9oclock position than a 11oclock, so I was going to handle that first and confirm timing, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistah mofro Posted June 19, 2013 Author Share Posted June 19, 2013 Tank was clean when I got it, checked fuel multiple times, and when i turn the pump on the fuel flows fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 Shucks! Next time you are in Alabama I'll give you $50. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 Being more specific and a video will help. Something changed if the engine ran fine before. No, the e12-80 dizzy is clocked just like the rest. Are you sure your not missing some details about the swap-same airfilters? Same fuel pump? My Mikunis ran like that when I first put my CAI on , because I had blocked the float bowl vents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 Guys, before we delve further into this, I helped mistah mofro work on his car last week... Comp came out OK, but oil is white and milky. It could very well be from condensation but needs to be changed ASAP. Then, I confirmed TDC as best as I could (plugs out, looking with a flashlight into #1 plug hole while Alex turned the engine). We marked the pulley at TDC and then checked timing. Timing at idle is somewhere in the range of 0*-5* retarded with both distributor adjustment screws maxed out. This is why the car has no power and backfires through the carbs (and a nice big one from the tailpipe). We moved the plugs over by one spot but that resulted in so much advance that the car wouldn't start. I think the carbs were then tuned very rich to compensate (also carbs are out of sync but proper timing needs to be established first). I told Alex that he needs to re-orient the oil pump spindle per factory instructions, so hopefully that is done soon. The engine was swapped out of another car that was apparently running well and the only thing that was changed was the distributor. This leads me to think that there are minute differences in adjustment screw locations which in turn doesn't let the ZX unit advance as far as whatever distributor that was in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30 ounce Posted June 21, 2013 Share Posted June 21, 2013 Remove the distributor and turn it over, there is another adjustment for timing directly opposite the normal adjustment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 Remove the distributor and turn it over, there is another adjustment for timing directly opposite the normal adjustment. Yes, they were both maxed out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 Did he use the ZX distributor mount? See 6th picture down - http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 Did he use the ZX distributor mount? See 6th picture down - http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html I'm pretty sure he did, but I didn't check (nor know the differences between the two off-hand). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistah mofro Posted June 25, 2013 Author Share Posted June 25, 2013 Yes its a zx dizzy mount Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob240z Posted June 25, 2013 Share Posted June 25, 2013 Seems like your on the right track as it sounds like it could be a timing issue? Have you adjusted the valves? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistah mofro Posted June 30, 2013 Author Share Posted June 30, 2013 Valves have been adjusted properly when I put the motor together. The cam was off apparently by 4 degrees which has summed up most but not all of the issue. When throttle is applied its smooth until around 2000-2200 rpm and then stops accelerating. If I just hold my foot down to WOT it will begin to pick up with barely any torque but blow out a lot of fluid out of the PCV port out of the side of the block( cant tell what it is).. That being said my oil is very milky but my compression numbers were fine also the radiator doesn't have any milky-ness in it either only found inside the motor. The block is a E31 while the head is a E88 if that helps and going to put up a video aswell while im here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistah mofro Posted June 30, 2013 Author Share Posted June 30, 2013 Seems like headgasket 120 across the board when the minumum is 159 ...i think so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted June 30, 2013 Share Posted June 30, 2013 ...blow out a lot of fluid out of the PCV port out of the side of the block( cant tell what it is).. That being said my oil is very milky but my compression numbers were fine also the radiator doesn't have any milky-ness in it either only found inside the motor. Looks like you have coolant leaking in to the crankcase. A leak can happen at the front cover from what I understand. Doesn't have to be the headgasket. You're going to destroy the wear surfaces in the engine that depend on oil if you keep driving it with coolant mixed with your oil. Bearings, pistons, valve guides, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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