Need some opinions

[boomnn]

Ok so a couple days ago I was given a 73 240z that runs roughly and needs a little body work and new seals and interior is kinda rough. I was also given a 75 280z that doesn't run but the body and interior are in a lot better shape. both cars are 1 owner cars with less than 150000 miles on them. Which in your opinion mite be a better way to start in on a project? body work and minor engine work vs. a new motor and less body work?

 

I realize this is kinda vague and is hard to judge without seeing the cars but I am just asking based on a more general aspect.

 

Thanks in advance for your input!!

[PLATA]

You a lucky fellow, two z cars as a gift , wow, pictures will help in order for members to chime in 

[boomnn]

I'll try to put up a couple pictures tomorrow if I can.

[Pharaohabq]

Yeah Pictures would really be nice.  As for the Z's, well the 240Z is Carburated and 2.4L , the 75' should be fuel injected and 2.8L so right there you've got some advantage to the 280Z, but the 240Z is lighter w/o the huge bumpers.  It's really going to be an asthetics theme between the two.

 

Also what is your goal?  Are you looking for a good daily driver?  If so I'd tell you to fix up the 280Z.

 

If you're looking to race and such, then the 240 may be a better option.  But really you need to look more carefully at the condition. Look for Rust in all the usual places, how are the frame rails? Does the 280Z have a 5 speed?  There's really a lot of factors so it's hard to tell you to go one way over another.

 

Paint is nothing compared to rust repair. The engines for each are a dime a dozen to pull out of junkers. These cars are all 35+ years old so keep that in mind when thinking about parts cost, new parts = $$$  So, look at the project and think about where you want to be with them, Tell us that and we'll give you a better idea of what we'd advise you to do.

 

In the end it's your money and your call, but lets start with some pictures and what you want to use the cars for...

[boomnn]

 

 

 

 

This is the 75 I will do pic's of the 73 tomorrow

[PLATA]

Not bad for freebeeZ, good luck on your adventure, get that wallet ready  

Edited July 10, 2013 by PLATA

[madkaw]

Bodywork is the slowest and most expensive repair

[beermanpete]

I suggest working on the car with problems that require the skill, tools, and related resources you already have or are most likely to learn and acquire easily. For me, I don't do body work and don't have the necessary tools for it so I would favor the car that needs mechanical repairs.

[RebekahsZ]

If the green car is the better car, I would work on it.  Try not to invest too much money in a car that has rust.  Rust never sleeps and any rust repair is temporary-it ALWAYS comes back-that's why we call it "cancer."  Have fun but be realistic-these cars are basically worthless as an "investment."  As soon as your costs exceed $1000, you have overspent on the entire car.

[900ss]

Not bad for freebeeZ, good luck on your adventure, get that wallet ready  

What they said. I wouldn't mind a few freebie Z cars like that over here  !

[NewZed]

Combine the best, part out the rest.  Many parts will swap between the two.

[Pharaohabq]

Well, I see the 280Z pictures, it doesnt' look too bad, BUT there is some rust.  Rust isn't good, but almost all these cars have some.   The rear arches look to have a good amount.  I'd expect there's rust in other locations.  You'll need to read up on where it's common.  Mainly though, you want to be sure the frame rails are intact, floor pans, rear deck, tirewell, and especially the inner fenders in the front tirewells need to be checked.  It all can be fixed.  Panels are availible to repair most of it from Tabco.com.   Now the 73' is there a lot more rust on that body as compared to this?  

 

Again, What is your goal, What do you want to do with the cars? You'll really need to figure that out before you take on these projects. Figure what you want and we can help you get there, it's just a matter of how much you want to spend doing it.   Are you just looking for a daily driver?   Without seeing picts of the 240, I'm recommending the 280 at this point. 

 

How long have these cars sat?  you could have some bad gas/jellied gas issues which can be a seriously pain in the * to fix.

 

 

 

 

oooh post 1500 for me

Edited July 12, 2013 by Pharaohabq

[boomnn]

Ok so here are a few of the 73 i have not seen the car in a couple years as it has been covered. When i uncovered it it looks in worse shape than i remembered!! uggghhh!! the engine bay is pretty clean, the inside is not in such great shape, i noticed a little rust in the inside door jamb at the floor seam, my green one doesnt have near the rust!! floors have no rust and battery has no rust i can waork on the surface rust i dont want to become a metal fabricator! I think what im gonna do is swap around parts to make the best car i can, then i will have to figure out what to do with the 73?? maybe trade it for a motor if anyone has a spare?? lots of choices now.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 13, 2013 by boomnn

[PLATA]

Combine the best, part out the rest.  Many parts will swap between the two.

^^^ a totally agree, one thing, please use the back panel and skinny bumpers of the 240Z on what ever you do 

[srgunz]

The only real value of both of those cars is as parts cars for a project car

in far better condition. IMO.

One can say they are free, but I look at it as someone handing me a bill for Thousands of dollars.

[Tony D]

"Try not to SPEND too much money on a car that has rust.  Rust never sleeps and any rust repair is temporary-it ALWAYS comes back-that's why it's called "cancer."  Have fun but be realistic-these cars are basically worthless as an "investment."  As soon as your costs exceed $1000, you have overspent on the entire car."

Amen bro!

 

I dub it "The RebekahZ's corollary of Rust to Dighera's Law of Automotive Investing" which states:

 

"An automobile is a hole the air, suspended there by four rubber doughnuts.

Doughnuts which you can not eat.

Into this hole, you throw money, which you will never see again!"

[Chris Duncan]

The green one by far. Don't sell any parts until the project is near completion.

 

most parts will cross over. I would use the 280 long block and some early 240 carbs

Edited July 14, 2013 by Chris Duncan

[boomnn]

Hadn't thought about usin the carbs instead of the EFI will have to look into that!

[Pharaohabq]

You think that 240Z is bad???  Wow really???   I've seen some that are WAY worse than that. Especially if you say the floor pans are still good.  That 240 needs rear arches over the rear tires and some 3M hitemp glue for the headliner. otherwise it doesn't look so bad.   I'm sure you could easilly get $1000 bucks for it if you filled up the tires and put in a battery. more probably if you washed and waxed it.  you'd have to unbend that front bumper, but that's not hard to do.  It really looks like it's pretty intact.   If you take any parts off you'll immediately drop it's value by easilly half, when you go from complete roller to parts car.  You could take that $1000 bucks and buy a 280ZX turbo engine and 5 speed tranny to drop in the 280Z. 

 

That 280Z needs arches too, so I think you're in the same boat with both. But the 280 looks like it needs less body work, but do either of them turn over? 

 

If I had $1000 handy I might consider driving the 600 miles to Denver  Aspen to buy that 240.  Interior parts you can get cheap off Ebay or through your local Zclub/dismantler/hybridZ buddies on here 

Edited July 18, 2013 by Pharaohabq

[boomnn]

Pharaohabq: Thanks for the more encouraging words.