L28 will not stay running

[logo113]

Hello everybody, I can not get this thing to stay running, I guess a little info will be good. I have a l28 with stock injectors (185cc I believe), a 240sx throttle body, ls2 Yukon coils in waste spark configuration, using a 36-1 wheel from an edis car, MS3x with the relay board. and just to see if it made a difference I installed the stepper idle valve, car starts then in like a second it dies, I have been at it for a week straight and cant get it to stay on. does any body have some guidance for this poor soul that wants to have this 240z running ?   Thanks for your help in advance.

 

[NewZed]

Did you install the parts or buy someone else's project.?  Verify that fuel pressure is maintained after it starts (use a gauge).  No fuel, no run.

[logo113]

Fuel pressure is good, the pump primes to 42 psi when I first turn the key to on then as the car pulls vacuum on start, it lowers to 36, then the car dies,

 

I bought the ms3x from DIYAutotune, already built. Im using the stock coolant temp already calibrated, and a GM IAT sensor.

The car starts strong, better than before when it had the stock  Bosch fuel injection, but then it just dies.

 

 If I open the throttle it goes up and down from 300ish rpm to like 2200ish rpm, if I close the throttle it dies.

[logo113]

Well I feel like a dumb ass. After I decided to put the old fuel injection system back on, car wouldn't run right.

What the hell?...... Spark plugs were fouled. Understandable, I was trying to start it for a whole week, no problem I took them out and cleaned them.

Put the plugs back in, then car still wouldn't want to run right.

 

Here is the dumb part, I was using the thermotime switch instead of the coolant sensor. Swapped that and then the car ran like a champ.

So now next weekend ill try the megasquirt again this time with the right sensor. The thing is that the temperatures were like 5 degrees off, between the GM IAT and the thermotime switch. That's why I didn't think twice about checking the coolant sensor.

[winstonusmc]

How did you attach the EDIS wheel to your pulley? I would like to use the 36-1 wheel.

[madkaw]

Would you share how you mounted your coils also?

I am attempting to mount the d585 truck coils myself and using MS3x to run everything. I think I have my coils mounted worked out but would like to see others

[Dan_Austin]

I mounted the D585 coils on the cheap:

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/103766-mounted-ls2-truck-coils-today/

[logo113]

^{For the Edis wheel. I had a machine shop shave a bit behind the pulley for a press fit. for the coils I made a bracket out of 90 degree angle aluminum, and a 2 inch wide aluminum piece of metal, Ill take some pics later.}

[madkaw]

Thanks for the ideas guys.

Dan, I've seen setup s like yours before. Only thing I don't like is having all the harness above the coils.

I'm working on an aluminum 2" square bracket that bolts to the block where the heater hose attaches.

It's a shame those 585 coils are such a funky shape, it makes it a challenge to set up

[Dan_Austin]

Fair comment on the harness location.  #1 was rubbing slightly on the hood,

but a small bit of tweaking solved that.  Keep in mind your plug wire options.

I ended up with a set of Magnacor KV85 for a GTO, which are about .75~1"

longer than I would like, but came with 2 spares for the same price of a custom

length set.  If you mount the coils lower you will need shorter wires.

[madkaw]

My set up will use stock 5.3 wires. I will eventually get a pic of it.

Wherever you put them it seems there is hardly enough room!

Edited August 7, 2013 by madkaw

[logo113]

I got some photos. Car still doing the same thing, starts and dies. It didn't matter if I used the coolant sensor or the thermo-time.

One thing I noticed was when I didn't have the map sensor hooked to the manifold, the engine stayed running, but it was pig rich on the wideband (9.5 AFR) and really low rpm. once I hooked the hose to the manifold and tried again, no luck starts and then just dies.

[loy]

Hmm whos map are you running? Sounds like too rich? Maybe you need to scale back your injectors or the map.

[logo113]

Nobody's map straight out of the box per say. I did see the fuel load gauge drop as the engine started. I'm using the stock injectors, want to get it running before I put the other ones I got. I did the required fuel calculation in tuner studio and it came as 10.6 ms.

[Chris83zxt]

I got some photos. Car still doing the same thing, starts and dies. It didn't matter if I used the coolant sensor or the thermo-time.

One thing I noticed was when I didn't have the map sensor hooked to the manifold, the engine stayed running, but it was pig rich on the wideband (9.5 AFR) and really low rpm. once I hooked the hose to the manifold and tried again, no luck starts and then just dies.

 

Edit: Nevermind, saw my answer RE: the yukon coil mount.  Looks good.

Edited August 10, 2013 by Chris83zxt

[Dan_Austin]

I'll second the kudos on the bracket.  If you can reproduce it easily, I am sure

you would find a good list of buyers, I know I would consider it. 

[logo113]

Finally I got the car to idle. For some reason I had the engine size as 1753cc's.

 

One question, When I use the VE analyzer live it throws the idle out of whack, it starts bouncing up and down. Is that normal?

[loy]

Good  that you got it running. It most likely writing to the controller live. This is probably what you are feeling. 

[Xnke]

The VE analyze live is NOT for tuning until you have a good map first! You can't just turn it on and drive away, or you will have idle problems and probably big holes in your tune. You will need to actually do some hand-tuning to get the car driving nicely, then you can use the VEAL to close up the gaps and smooth things out.

[mattb3562]

I'm not gonna go and do Tue math for you, but if I had to guess, you're required fuel should be way on down closer to 7. Mine is running slightly rich at 9.0 with 440cc injectors.