alejohndro5 Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 if running all new fuel lines, (and using a Pallnet rail), why is it recommended to use 3/8 fuel feed line instead of 5/16? Are there really any benefits? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 Is this a turbo or NA application? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JIM73240Z Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 even with a turbo, clifton ran stock hard lines and was getting 450 rwhp. do not have to have huge lines to make big power. cant hurt though. jimbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alejohndro5 Posted August 8, 2013 Author Share Posted August 8, 2013 NA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alejohndro5 Posted August 8, 2013 Author Share Posted August 8, 2013 So, given the choice, 3/8 is preferable just for the upgrade potential down the road? What about the return line? I've heard that can be smaller. Again given the choice (I'm redoing the whole thing) what would you guys choose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 I'd choose to leave what's in there...in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffp Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 I ran -6 line (5/16) for quite a long time in my car. I did start to have delivery issues when I pushed the engine to about 550hp. Then I started to see some trouble. The biggest thing is to get injectors sized correctly. Pushing the fuel pressure up to 4 BAR is really a tough thing to do. Most of the pumps out there just will not provide good pressure with boost added to the mx. So unless you are running some high hp numbers (well realitivity high LOL)then keep what you have. I can tell you, there are very few shops, or people who will do a good line for you. Myself, I just went to 1/2 316L seamless line. I have never had any further flow problems since. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skirkland1980 Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 -6 line is 3/8". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cockerstar Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 -6 line is 3/8". +1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 (edited) JeffP meant what he said, he just mis-stated the Dash Number. He was over 500RWHP with the stock 5/16" feed, and 1/4" return line. When he updated, it was to 1/2" (-8) Feed and 3/8" (-6) Return of 0.035" wall T304L Stainless Steel which he used my Swagelock Benders (Thank You "Cost-Plus" Contracts!) This dropped 1 Bar(G) off his static pressure at the rear of the car at maximum flow, as I recall. Edited August 10, 2013 by Tony D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alejohndro5 Posted August 10, 2013 Author Share Posted August 10, 2013 I'd choose to leave what's in there...in there. Well... being as the lines are rusted through and broken off in a couple spots, I really really should replace them So i mean, sure 5/16 is fine, but 3/8 wont hurt right? Well.. techinically i guess it would take a hair longer to fill up and build the proper pressure but whos gonna notice! 3/8 feed and 5/16 return sound about right? is there any reason not to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alejohndro5 Posted August 11, 2013 Author Share Posted August 11, 2013 Just thought id share a real nice page i found with you guys: http://www.jdmgallery.com/2012/02/the-ultimate-l28et-guidewhat-you-need-for-350whp-hybridz/ mentions that 3/8 in and 5/16 out is a good choice for a build. I know i wont be pushing those hp numbers anytime soon but pays to prepare right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skirkland1980 Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 I'm using 3/8 supply and the stock return line. I think it's 1/4". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 Incomplete information up front wastes everybody's time. Put what you want in there, it's been beat to death it won't make a shite bit of difference in your application. Unless, of course you're playing more games and withholding more information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naptown Dave Posted August 29, 2013 Share Posted August 29, 2013 Tony, I snagged some swedgelok benders from work and they are the best. Next car I tube will be stainless tubing with swedgelok fittings. Did he flare any of the tubing for A/N fittings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted August 29, 2013 Share Posted August 29, 2013 No, as I recall he used the Swagelok fittings for the tubes, and the Swagelok to AN adapters (SS) at the ends where the interfaces were with his existing AN Softlines. He also put a -8 fuel line and -6 return into the stock tank sender unit... My suggestion to anybody doing this is to make the lines in three portions: underfloor (firewall to back shelf upswing), fuel pump/fuel tank section, and engine bay section. For people developing a project, the engine bay configuration may change several times, as may your fuel pump configuration. This allows you to remake and reconfigure the applicable section without having to drop your fuel line and make a break there later, under the car, crap falling in your face & swearing! Plus, it GREATLY simplifies the bending orientation. The complex stuff is at the ends and it's MUCH easier to handle as a 6' stick rather than one 12' long with orientation of every prior bend to worry about. I mean, you can try to duplicate the stock one-piece line and if you can do it in one go...more power to ya! But if you get everything perfect, and make the very last bend so the feed nipple now goes out the inner fender well, instead of towards the engine....don't say you weren't forewarned! And you will end up cutting it at the firewall anyway...muahahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted August 29, 2013 Share Posted August 29, 2013 Oh, you know what, he DID do AN Flares on that tubing! I remember the swearing.... It was seamless 0.035" wall stuff. If you can the get thinner stuff, it will flare easier, just use a LOT of MOLYKOTE on the inside of the swage area...and use a GOOD tool with the rollers on the cone, it will come out glass smooth on the inside then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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