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have fuel and spark, still not firing


spiff

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Tried to start my newly swapped L28ET today...It's getting fuel and plugs are firing, still it wont start, just ocasional loud pops from the turbo(I have not hooked up exhaust yet), like its backfiring or something.

Timing is around 10 degrees when cranking. Plug wires are double checked to be in the correct firing order (1-5-3-6-2-4 counterclockwise)

What else to check?

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If you checked timing, fuel, and spark, air or compression would be my next guess. How is the valve clearance? Are you getting any compression? 

 

It would also help if you can confirm how you know you are getting fuel and spark, have you pulled the injectors? Are they firing? Have you physically seen a spark on the plugs? (Obviously don't do these at the same time...)

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Compression is next on my list.

I know its sparking because I have pulled all 6 plugs and checked for spark. Strong spark on all.

I know its getting fuel since all plugtips where moist and smelling of gasolin when i pulled them after many attempts to start it.

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While the plugs are out clean them up with some carb or brake cleaner, possibly its flooding out. If compression shows good, Buy a can of starting fluid and clamp off the fuel line going to the rail. Spray some starting fluid in the intake air boot and see if the engine starts. Less chance to flood out using starting fluid. If it runs off the starting fluid, release the clamped off fuel line and see if it will run off the fuel.  

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Compression is next on my list.

I know its sparking because I have pulled all 6 plugs and checked for spark. Strong spark on all.

I know its getting fuel since all plugtips where moist and smelling of gasolin when i pulled them after many attempts to start it.

You have wet fouled. The plugs. Do not use the cold start valve at al during initial start. Use a shot of starting fluid if that...

 

Pull the plugs, dry out the cylinders, burn off the plugs using a MAPP Gas torch until the ground electrode glows red and no more orange flame comes off.

 

Best if you can install thm and retry while still hot.

 

I like to poof off fuel in the cylinders while I have the torch...but smelling gasoline, I'd check to make sure it's not puddled in the manifold now from extended cranking.

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How long has it been sitting?  Squirt some oil in the cylinders to get a good ring seal and cylinder pressure.

PO said he pulled the engine about two-three years ago, filled it with oil and has since sat in his garage. Engine turns over smoothly but maybe some valves are sticking or injectors. I don't know

 

You have wet fouled. The plugs. Do not use the cold start valve at al during initial start. Use a shot of starting fluid if that...

 

Pull the plugs, dry out the cylinders, burn off the plugs using a MAPP Gas torch until the ground electrode glows red and no more orange flame comes off.

 

Best if you can install thm and retry while still hot.

 

I like to poof off fuel in the cylinders while I have the torch...but smelling gasoline, I'd check to make sure it's not puddled in the manifold now from extended cranking.

 

I don't have a cold start valve, even though it's and efi engine, startup enrichment is probably handled by the injectors like on newer cars...

Gonna try heating the plugs today and buying a can of starter gas. Also check compression.

 

A friend of mine said it appeared to be firing on the downstroke, like when you put a dizzy cap on 180 degrees wrong, but then again this cap has a notch so can't be put on more than one way.  Same goes for the oil pump shaft connecting to the distributor right?

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Not sure if I follow you here, how do you do that? I have checked timing, its around 10 degrees

How did you determine your timing was 10 degrees with a rotor 180 out?

In fact, on a reluctor-based timing system, how did you check your timing without a timing light?

 

I'm curious.... good to hear you got it running, but I'm questioning your setups integrity.

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I just hooked up the timing light and when cranking the timing mark was at the 10 degree mark...

I have since checked with engine running at idle and its around 20 degrees now.

What puzzles me is how or why the rotor is pointing the wrong way with nr1 cylinder at tdc and all timing marks lined up.

Engine runs super smooth though, i'm just wondering what should oil pressure be at idle?

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  • 1 month later...

Spiff, this is exactly what is going on with mine!

 

Do you mind me asking what your setup is?  I have an 81 turbo motor and ECCS, 82/83 distributor/CAS.  When I installed the oil pump and distributor EXACTLY according to the FSM (follow the punch hole on the oil pump, put the rod through the spot for #1 plug on the cap, and line up the rotor), and couldn't get ignition at all.  We tried moving the oil pump spindle one tooth at a time at  until we were 180 degrees off and distributor rotor were 180 off.  It finally fired up!

 

BUT, unlike you, my timing is about 55-60 degrees advanced, as measured with a timing light.  you said you redid the spark plug wires.  Do you mine going into a little bit more detail on what exactly you did?

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Spiff, this is exactly what is going on with mine!

 

Do you mind me asking what your setup is?  I have an 81 turbo motor and ECCS, 82/83 distributor/CAS.  When I installed the oil pump and distributor EXACTLY according to the FSM (follow the punch hole on the oil pump, put the rod through the spot for #1 plug on the cap, and line up the rotor), and couldn't get ignition at all.  We tried moving the oil pump spindle one tooth at a time at  until we were 180 degrees off and distributor rotor were 180 off.  It finally fired up!

 

BUT, unlike you, my timing is about 55-60 degrees advanced, as measured with a timing light.  you said you redid the spark plug wires.  Do you mine going into a little bit more detail on what exactly you did?

 

I have a euro l28et so I don't have the optical distributor but what I did when it wouldn't start was to check the engine timing. Since it was firing but backfiring trough the intake I knew that valves where not closed when the combustion occured, this led me to the timing of the engine itself.

I removed the rocker cover and distributor and turned the engine over untill cyl1 was at tdc, then I checked that the camshaft was in the right position and that the timing marks on the chain and camsprocket lined up(note that you might need to turn the engine a couple of times to tdc for the marks to line up). Then I checked the position of the halfmoon on the dizzyshaft, which at tdc should be at approx. 11:25 position. So everything was fine with the engine timing, I then put the distributor back on, but without the cap so I could see the rotor and thats when I found the fault, because the rotor was pointing backwards(toward cyl6) when at TDC it should point straight ahead towards the radiator. At that point it was just a matter of putting the nr1 ht lead on the cyl6 position of the dizzycap and installing the rest of the leads in a counterclockwise fashion.

 

When you installed your oilpump and shaft, was the the engine at TDC? Did you check that the half moon was at the 11:25 position after installing? Here's how it should look like:

oilpumpshaft2.jpg

 

Come to think of it the shaft for an optical dizzy might not look like this?

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