dylanh Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 A buddy of mine is selling a new precision dbb 6262 at a steal and I'm curiousto see how everyone thinks this turbo will behave. The car is a 3.0l stroker 8.4:1 700cc injectors, vipec stand alone, water Meth injection, port and polished n42 head with a cam intake .488 lift 262 duration,exhaust 488 lift 252 duration with 114 lobe split, and 3.7lsd. From everything I've read this turbo spools better than a 35r and makes more power because of the billet blade design. I'll be using a spacer between the mani and turbo with an external waste gate similar to big phils Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dylanh Posted November 1, 2013 Author Share Posted November 1, 2013 Also I am considering going with an air to water intercooler to minimize lag because of the tremendously short (1-2ft) of distance the piping would be between the intake and turbo. A friend of mine has had great success with this on his high hp daily driven mr2 spyder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 (edited) Piping volume will not make a significant different to "lag" perception. Unless you are drag racing with the air/water, the extra plumbing needed is usually not worth the trouble or expense. How do you intend to drive, and what are your power goals? Edited November 1, 2013 by SleeperZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dylanh Posted November 1, 2013 Author Share Posted November 1, 2013 Well I've seen back to back dynos and the graphs speak for themselves and the system would only cost around 5-700. The purpose is just a fun car to take out on the interstate.Plans are to be able to take it to events like tx2k night meets. Power goals basically is as much as I can get safely. I probably will also do a 109 race gas tune. I'm currently running a 60-1 with a stage v turbine but it doesn't fully spool until around 4k which revving to 6k leaves a very small power band Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat1 Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 A 6262 is a badass turbo the supra guys love them. What size exhaust housing? The A/R make a huge difference in spool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dylanh Posted November 2, 2013 Author Share Posted November 2, 2013 .82 t3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 (edited) Apply the turbo correctly to the engine and cam and that shite turbo performance will go away! 4K spool is TERRIBLE! A 700+ L28 with spool at 3200 and pull to 7500 is easily attainable if you size the components correctly. The only reason for a Air/Water unit is to get better than perfect intercooling by using an ice-chest and pump system to get it below ambient. The above mentioned 700HP L28 runs a steady 40-43C inlet temperature in 35-38C ambient conditions. And most 'experts' say "wow, you got a small intercooler".... Edited November 2, 2013 by Tony D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dylanh Posted November 3, 2013 Author Share Posted November 3, 2013 Trust me I know how horrible it is, I'm pulling the head tomorrow and will take a good look at the turbo to see what kind of shape it's in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skirkland1980 Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 I had the same late spool problem. A cam swap cured it. I was working with about a 1000rpm power band. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 Cam should "come on" near boost threshold or slightly higher. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffp Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 interesting, I really never had a spool problem, or a cam problem, well except the time I compromised on the cam because the builder/cam guy thought he knew best, turns out he was wrong, ended costing me more money to do it correctly the second time, but in the end I have to say @ 3100 RPM @ full boost of 22psi was almost unmanageable, but you know water cooler talk is just that. Have fun with it take copious notes each build and one day you will get just what you want. open your wallet though, needless to say you will need more then .500 lift to start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zdan Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 (edited) A billet wheel will spool no faster than a cast wheel. A billet wheel will shine at higher boost levels. This is the only advantage to a billet wheel. Billet wheels have been used somewhat in the diesel industry mainly for durability. Edited February 16, 2014 by 240zdan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l28stockecukingofdyno340p Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 Hi menbers the 6262 is a potent unit I´m using T04b 60mm inducer on my set up and do you know somebody on the forum rolling the dyno to 340 at the wheels and 370cc svo injectors and fmu regulator. Please let me know who maybe in the future the 6262 is a good choice for a l28 turbo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 (edited) JeffP's build is running a GT35 and is now pumping over 500HP at 7,400 on a bone stock L28ET bottom-end using a Fel-Pro Head Gasket. Quit looking for the "Magic Bullet"! The reasons you guys are getting such atrocious spools and low specific horsepower is you are listening to anecdotes and simply assembling a basketful of parts without a clue as how they interact with each other. I'd rethink that name as well. 340HP on a "Stock ECU" hardly qualifies as "King of the Dyno" -- there are photos at this site of someone making over 600HP to the rear wheels using the L28ET ECU. Self-Promotion, it works great, until you're caught. I don't know if the DYNO sheet was ever posted here, but the car running 224mph at Bonneville and experiencing a tire blowout is posted on You Tube. There was high performance before aftermarket ECU's! Edited January 17, 2015 by Tony D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l28stockecukingofdyno340p Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 Do you believe that ask to profesional guys like Rebello performance about 600 hp stock ecu the maps on the stock computer can control big injectors to feed the boost. You have to modiefied the fuel and ignition maps That means isn´t stock and My dyno number are with stock block , stock intake ported matched head and ported exhaust manifold no body has this numbers. soon i will post the dyno page and 91 octane shell gas at 18.5 and the fuel mixture was at 10.3 little rich if i can set mixture to 11.0 to 11.5 and more i can increase this power 340 and 372 pound feet of torque I am king of the dyno baby super setting ha ha ha ha giiiiiiiiiiiihaaa . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 (edited) "You have to modiefied the fuel and ignition maps " Believe what you will, sir. The evidence exists. People were making power with turbos well before HALTEC. And yes, on stock ECUs. You don't go 224mph at Bonneville with under 500HP in a 280ZX. That was 1991. Stock Datsun ECUs...no technology available to alter the stock L28ET boxes existed then, and still doesn't. No more "unstock" than your setup is, in fact! I wouldn't get too boastful on saying a set of 370SVO injectors and an FMU is "stock" either. I stand by what I posted. I have no skin in this game, I just call it when I see it, and this is "it"! JeffP has a stock L28ET Block making 475 on a stock intake and exhaust manifold. But he's running a Z32 NA Box. People have run the NA Boxes in Turbo Applications for years...in fact, the EuroZX had 200bhp bone stock in L28ET form without the fancy ECCS, using an E12-80 Distributor with a Turbo Boost Retard canister on it. And that setup make 386 HP reeeeeal easily if you know your way around fueling! That Dyno sheet was posted here some years back as well. Edited January 17, 2015 by Tony D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skirkland1980 Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Tony. What are your recommendations to get a broad torque curve using a stock turbo intake and my tc4305 turbo? I was thinking about relocating the injectors further up the runners, fabricating an additional plenum and plumbing the plenum into the existing injector bungs. I would use some sort of valve to apply the extra air at a predetermined rpm. Do you think this will work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Lotta work... Not really up on the 4305 specifics. Generally speaking the best way to get torque is get your boost threshold as low as possible, use a higher lift cam with the head match ported for the lift (if your ports flow 220 at 475", then stick with a 45 lift cam, etc...) Get the cam timing to bring the cam on after you hit full boost and pull. Uncork the exhaust. Most people I see have an A/R far too large. JeffP thought he "needed" that .82 on the hot side...but in fact when tested his wheel cut and 0.63 had no more exhaust backpressure than inlet pressure (something Corky Bell says only happens in F1....) That smaller hot side brings the boost in lower, and gets you 2-3# right off. That in a cammed engine makes for a LOT of torque. If you want to add methanol, and put your timing back to what an N/A normally runs, that gives you gobs of torque back as well. But there's that tank capacity issue. There's only so much that's going to happen from injector placement. If you're starting from a clean sheet that may be one thing but retrofitting to an existing engine piece will always have it's payback limitations. I'm not really following the second plenum feeding secondarily into the injector ports...is that for some 'swirl' to tumble the mix and get a more homogeneous inlet charge? The injector angle is not optimal for that, you would want something tangential to the valve bowl area....and that may be pretty counterproductive for clean laminar flows acting like an "Air Knife" at a drive through window...effectively hurting ultimate flow into the cylinder rather than helping it with additional injected air at the valve pocket. I guess the only way to know for sure is to try it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l28stockecukingofdyno340p Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 hi tony d the only way to make those numbers is with alcohol injection , adittional injectors, high octane gas, and more than 25 psi of boost my numbers was at 18 p.s.i. please the only thing you has to do is don´t compare me with other people and give me credit and that,s It mynumbers are awsome stock ecu 370 svo injector with fmu I´have a friend of mine he make 420 hp with n/a 280zx ecu at 28 psi but he use alcohol injection and 440 cc supra injectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l28stockecukingofdyno340p Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 Tonyd what is jeffp set up because he is not on the the list set up l28t you can tell me where he is to see how he reach those numbers are amazing with stock ECU Im proud of him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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