dylanh Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 I just replaced my head gasket and blocked the timing chain so it wouldn't move and now I've got the head back on but I can't seem to get the sprocket high enough to put back on. It only need about a 1/4 in higher to go on. Am I missing something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 Maybe need to turn the cam to meet the sprocket hole? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dylanh Posted November 7, 2013 Author Share Posted November 7, 2013 I cant get the sprocket quiet high enough over the initial lip to worry about that yet. I'm quiet stumped, granted this is my first time pulling the head off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 Sounds like maybe the tensioner eased out a little. Try shoving your chain block further down or something Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mannyvig Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 Tensioner came out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dylanh Posted November 7, 2013 Author Share Posted November 7, 2013 should I make a thinner block to try to really get down there and relieve the tension or? anyone have any advice? ps thanks for the quick and helpful responses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xnke Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 Tensioner probably dropped out. My block slides all the way down to touch the crank sprocket, and is about an inch wide at the bottom. If your tensioner has dropped, you will need to pull the entire front timing cover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dylanh Posted November 8, 2013 Author Share Posted November 8, 2013 darn....since I bought the car and it has a cam I do not have the cam card I dont believe which will make it impossible to time it correctly, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 There are pictures and descriptions in the FSM that explain cam/crankshaft coordination. There's a notch and a groove and a timing mark that tell all when combined with general knowledge of #1 cam lobe position. Align and orient four things and you'll be safe, after you get the tensioner back in to its hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 Pull the front cover and fix it---don't rotate anything. This isn't a big deal, you don't need to pull the head or the pan to get it off and access the tensioner. You may find, however, that pulling your radiator and working in front of the engine is nice... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xnke Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 I have never been able to do the job without at least lifting the head...I always have torn up the headgasket doing it that way. Just because it's got an aftermarket cam doesn't mean anything about timing it...Time it exactly as it would be done for a stock cam, UNLESS you have a vernier-type cam gear or the Nissan Comp timing gear. Both of those will come with instructions on usage, though. It's just a lot of bolts to be careful not to loose or get out of order, they're mostly all 8mm diameter, but there's at least three different lengths and they need to go back in the holes they came out of. There are 4 oil pan bolts, two bolts at the top front from the cylinder head, some in the water pump, and then all down the sides of the timing cover...Make sure you time the oil pump/distributor correctly, as well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 I've read accounts of people using long screwdrivers to get the tensioner re-inserted. But I've also seen accounts of lots of time wasted trying. If I was in the situation I might at least try to fabricate a tool that could be used to lift and push on it. Worth a shot. Maybe work through the access hole on the front of the timing cover so you can see better what you're trying to do. Seems like someone would make and sell a modified tensioner plate that only allows so much travel so the tensioner can't pop out. Like the one in the attached link. People would probably buy it just for insurance or ease of head work. Maybe that's why Kameari uses it. http://kameariusa.com/L6_AdjTimingChainTensioner.php Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve260z Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 (edited) Pull the front cover and fix it---don't rotate anything. This isn't a big deal, you don't need to pull the head or the pan to get it off and access the tensioner. You may find, however, that pulling your radiator and working in front of the engine is nice... Just take the the water pump pulley and front cover off. You may need to loosen the front 1/3 of the oil pan bolts or not. On my motor the front cover will come off without touching the oil pan bolts. Don't forget about those small head bolts that attach to the front cover. 8mm IIRC Edited November 9, 2013 by steve260z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShaggyZ Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 I'm a self-proclaimed pro at fixing that situation in about 10 seconds. Way cheaper and safer than turning a single bolt, though you could end up doing that if you somehow screw this up. 1. With tension on the chain (pulling up), remove your block 2. Stick a long screw driver (or some other long rod that will allow you to see where you're sticking it) and rest it on top of the tensioner (the slider part) 3. While pushing gently on the screwdriver, gradually relieve tension in the chain until the tensioner drops down and pops in 4. Immediately pull up on the chain and remove the screwdriver It should make a gentle "thunk" as it slides in and 9 months later you're a dad. I got so good at this, I started doing it for fun, even seeing how far out I could get it before I had trouble getting back in. As I recall, I eventually let the chain kinda fall into the hole and don't need a block anymore. When I first ran into this issue, it came WAY out, as in nearly dangling and I could see the spring... I think. Obviously, these steps assume the tensioner deflected UP out of the housing, not down. If it went down somehow, you could try a bent coat hanger to pull from above; not sure about that. Another option is to remove the oil pump and push up on the tensioner from below while a friend works your chain from above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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