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2jz mounts


JacobsZ

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  • 4 weeks later...
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Quick question to those making mounts or have a jz already installed. When making mounts like most have been making replicating Beta, why make the cross member? Why not simply make the mounts directly to the frame? Or if you are crafty to the stock mounts? Because when I dropped my motor to make measurements the s30 stock cross member was in a good spot for the 2jz to sit on. It wasn't right in the middle of the motor but if the mounts failed the motor wouldn't drop to the floor the cross mount would hold it up? So why make another cross mount? Is it for safety or is it just easier to build something like that than putting it directly from motor to frame. Im just curious.

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For the 2JZ, the oil filter is pretty much in the way of where a datsun cross member to engine block mount would be easy to make. I have seen people run a clocked mount from the stock jz engine mount location to the stock datsun cross member, but that mount looks like it can go potentially wrong.

 

My understanding of doing the new cross member style was to spread the load between the frame rail. The frame rail, especially near the battery tray area/firewall tends to be on the weaker side in a non rust-free car, so having a welded in cross member would help spread the load to the driver side as well.

 

Even more important is what avernier suggests in clearing the steering column/shaft. To build it to avoid the steering you would have to essentially weld to the side of the frame rail and that would most likely rip it out of the side. 

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That make sense. My friend built his mounts to go to the stock location. It didn't look weak but it didn't look right. I wouldn't know how that would pan out until its done. I figured directly to the frame would cause some issues, that oil filter is a pain lol. The crossmember ive been seeing looks easiest.

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Legitimately we are supposed to have badjuju's motor in, in the next few weeks. I'll take a look at all three styles, just for the hell of it. He will only be using one of them which I will make a jig out, so I should have a jig or an actual mount to build a jig off of for all three.

 

Honestly as Avernier has repeatedly said, it really shouldn't be too hard. 

 

2 pieces of 2x2 inch 90* either cut from a square or just angle iron.

 

1-3 pieces of tubing depending on if you have a bender or not.

 

2 pieces of steel for the mount to bolt to, reinforced with bits.

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I prefer 1x3 tubing, cut at a 30* angle to make the crossmember. Either end welded to angle iron that hangs from the frame rail. Two uprights, one on each side for the motor mounts to sit on. Boom. 1 hour tops, finished. \__/ like that, but with two uprights right where the slashes meet the underscore.

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As long as you arent cutting notches in the tubing, its not going anywhere. Im rocking 340 ish whp daily, and by daily, i mean boosting through every gear every time i take off while driving to and from wherever im going, tons of clutch kicking and drifting, lots of burnouts and soft launches. No issues, im about to jump to 18psi and see the dyno to see what it puts down. Its already scary. I dont like doing 3rd gear pulls.

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Oh I don't mean like crushing from the engine, I mean like crushing from tightening the engine mount to the cross member. Did you just drill a single hole through and put a nut in the back? Or did you put a sleeve through to keep the tube from crushing when you tighten the engine mount down.

 

Edit: Actually I recall you said you solid mounted. I guess you wouldn't use the rubber mount, just plate steel back up to the motor?

Edited by seattlejester
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  • 2 months later...

Good information here guys! I am very interested in the 2jz swap and the only thing holding me back is the lack of mounts and I don't have the ability to make my own so I would definitely be interested in this kit if the price is reasonable!! Also just out of curiosity what are you guys running for engine management on your 1/2jzs? Just oem or have you guys been going with ms3? 

 

Another side note, how many of you have done the 2jzge from the soarer/sc300 then done the na-t route? From my understanding the 2jzge and gte are very similar; the whole bottom end is the exact same and the major differences are just the pistons, head gasket, oil squirters, and the ports on the head. Seems like a pretty easy swap and cheap swap... I bet the junkyards will let those na motors go pretty cheap! 

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