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Best oil pump?


Cody 82 ZXT

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I really don't want to start a really long debate here. tongue.gif Unless it's needed but, I just bought an oil pump from a local auto parts store and when I got it home I noticed that it's made from cast iron instead of aluminum. Other than the weight difference and it's kinda ugly is there anything to be concerned with? I bought one made for the automatic turbo even though I have a manuel with oil cooler. Should I return this one and get a different one? Maybe the competion one from Nismo? Would I need the competion one. It's mainly a street car that gets beat on almost everyday but, other than that I really don't race it.

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Hard to get a definitive answer, but his is what I know. The NISMO mega pump is just their hiflow pump with better spring. The turbo auto pump is supposedly the best, but I can't get hard #'s on its flow. If you were to buy a pump for a turbo, non-turbo from your local auto store it is all the same pump. Best bet, get the turbo pump from MSA for $69. I run it with no problems.

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Originally posted by Z Speed auto:

heat soke is what comes to my mind

shut the car off and the oil bakes

i would not put it in a car i worked on

Heat soak? On an oil pump? Somehow I doubt a cast pump would be any different than an aluminum one in that regard, especially given the pump is located nowhere near the exhaust.
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Z speed auto does bring up something that I hadn't really considered. Any merit to the heat soak idea?

 

James heres the info I found on the comp. Nismo pump. The high volume is just the turbo auto pump but, what about the competion pump?

Here's the specs as listed in the description of the pump.

 

FLOW RATE IS 13.7 GPH AT 4000 RPM. OVER 90 PSI COMPENSATES FOR INCREASED BEARING CLEARANCE AND/OR THE ADDITION OF AN OIL COOLER. INCLUDES OPTONAL COMPETITION INNER AND OUTER OIL PUMP SPRINGS.

 

Is there any differnce between this pump and an auto pump with the comp. springs? This engine won't have the tightest clearences so i thought this might be a good idea if it's worth the extra dough. At the moment every penny counts!!

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Guest Anonymous

you know the radiator is a long way from the Ext manifold too

rule, fact,

1/3 the power of a N/A motors power goes in to the coolant as heat

radiator and oil

1/3 get lost out the Ext

1/3 makes it to the top of the piston

 

do i have to finsh this frist year auto class?

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Well I am going to weigh in on this one. First of all, I want Z speed to tell me how and oil pump, regardless of material, is ever going to reach a temp high enough for oil to coke, which is really all anyone would need to be concerned with. I just don't see material being an issue with an oil pump, and I would not be scared to run a cast iron one at all. Probably last longer to boot.

 

Cody, you can also shim the pump spring to increase pressure, but you will need to do something to restrict the flow to the turbo, to much pressure can push oil past the seals in your turbo, which makes a pretty mess.

 

The turbo auto pump is the way to go, and I would not worry about the springs or extra pressure unless yours is low. I am running a standard spring in mine, and I did not cut anything in the machining process when I built my engine, so all my stuff is standard, and I have no problems with pressure.

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Guest Anonymous

has not your mom ever told you it hurts less to learn form others mistakes?

next

my spelling sucks so im gona do this buy pointing out things

Nissan has fair more $$$$$$$$$$ to spend on things like iron or not on a oil pump

so dose Buick

try and find a dry oil pump on a motor that worked that's iron (stock)

mind you iron cost less

you will find iron pumps in the oil pan whair it has oil to cool it

not out side with only air

try and find a dry oil pump for a top fueler that's iron

you would think at the psi they have you would need it so the thing don't crack

next

(if you read this earlyer i dont need the hole eastrn see bord calling him by name)

so lets try this

why dose a 2 row aluminum radiator work better than a 5 row brass

do the math on that

next

what happens to something under psi

 

example;

add 1 lb psi to H2O how much dose this rase the boiling point how much dose it rase the temp

 

you dont think this applies to oil?

 

do the math on this and we can beging to talk

twak.gifmalebitchslap.gifbonk.gif

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I agree with you Yo, I was in a big hurry when I leftthe parts store and when I got to work and had a minuite to go outside and look at it I was likewhat the hell is this? It weighs a million pounds. weird.gif I was kinda pissed, Not what I was expecting. :(

 

It's getting real close to install time so I really don't want to be haveing wait on shipping and all. I think I'm going to call Courtesy Nissan tommarow moring and see if they have the turbo auto one in stock and that will be my deciding factor. I live within reasonable driving distance so I'll just make the trip if they can get me one. Plus, they give me 25% off on items. I may even get it cheaper. I'll let ya know.

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Z speed, if I follow your logic then I need to get rid of my cast iron block, since it is going to crack too.

 

Raising the psi of H2O doesn't have anything to do with wether this oil pump is good to use or not.

 

Aluminum makes a good radiator since it is fairly strong, and you can work with thinner thicknesses than you could with a copper/brass core. Copper is actually a better conductor of heat though. But this doesn't have anything to do with the oil pump either.

 

Most of the oil pumps on domestic V-8's that I have seen have been cast iron, and they are not necesarily immersed in oil either, after all why would they need a pick-up if they were?

 

Personally I don't see the point in debating on it. Its an oil pump, just use it. If you are uncomfortable with it, change it. I would use it without worry.

 

But that is just my opinion.

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I'm in Argos, Indiana on buisness, logged on just to see what's up. this one made me laugh out loud.

There is another issue that no one really mentioned. the trash factor. cast iron will not score as easy as alum.. Also, cast iron is dimensionaly stable at higher temps than alum., temps that this pump should never see....

I would run the pump.

Luigi

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Guest Anonymous

I beg your pardon,

But BUICK and all most all BUICK pumps are outside the block and are alluminum.

YES THIS MEANS V8

 

If you would like to see, i have 2 455's at my place, 1 out of a 70 wild cat the the other a 73 GS.

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Originally posted by Z Speed auto:

I beg your pardon,

But BUICK and all most all BUICK pumps are outside the block and are alluminum.

YES THIS MEANS V8

 

If you would like to see, i have 2 455's at my place, 1 out of a 70 wild cat the the other a 73 GS.

Dude, chill. First of all I qualified my statement with the phrase "that I have seen". A follow up question would have been to ask what I have seen, not assume I have seen a buick one, and just did not know the difference.

 

Second having a pump outside the block is not limited to buick, Plymouth likes to do that too.

 

And as far as seeing them, I will take your word for it. After all I am pretty much a nissan man, and Buick V-8's are really not in my area of interest.

 

Peace :D

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Ok, lots of mud slinging here....

Before I start, I do need to menetion this. Z speed auto, while I could care less about your spelling and grammar, I find your posts very hard to understand. Your sentances often leave me questioning what you are trying to say. So if I am missing something, that is why, and please correct,(everyone here would enjoy the laugh at my expense).

Zspeedauto said:

try and find a dry oil pump on a motor that worked that's iron (stock)
That worked? They ALL work. Do you mean a OEM outside the motor cast iron oil pump? I'm quite sure they exist. The cast iron replacement for our aluminum oil pumps WORKS fine. I don't understand what you are getting at?

Next:

try and find a dry oil pump for a top fueler that's iron

Are you refering to a dry sump pump? I will admit I am not intimately familiar with the exact rule requirements of top fuel beyond the 500 cubic inch maximum. They may require wet sump and internal oil pumps, I don't know. But most of the high end drag cars and nearly all high end race cars I have seen run dry sump systems. And they are aluminum because that is a rather large piece of equipment, significantly larger than our "regular" oil pumps, so I don't think a comparison is valid, again, back to the head discussion, too many variables. I think weight is a big factor there as well as heat dissapation.

And:

you would think at the psi they have you would need it so the thing don't crack

next

(if you read this earlyer i dont need the hole eastrn see bord calling him by name)

The oil psi they top fuel dragsters run at? They run the minumum necessary plus a small margin for error. Pumping the oil pressure any higher only robs horsepower. I am not aware that they run much more than your avereage built V8 at 60-100 psi. But again, your second sentence left me wondering. calling who by name? I saw no reference to someone else. Did I miss something?

And:

why dose a 2 row aluminum radiator work better than a 5 row brass
Because brass doesn't conduct heat as well. But we already covered that copper does a superior job to either brass or aluminum. But we are not talking about brass oil pumps, but iron. I think I know why you are using that example, but it is a poor one for your case.

add 1 lb psi to H2O how much dose this rase the boiling point how much dose it rase the temp

you dont think this applies to oil?

First, you are comparing two different forms of pressure. Boiling temperature of oil is really not something we are ever concerned with in our motors and at no time is there really any significant pressure over the oil. Second, adding pressure above a liquid,(water in your example), does nothing to the waters temperature. I will admit it has been a few years since my Thermodynamics class, but not that long. Incresing the pressure of a liquid itself does not increase its temperature of any significance. We are not dealing with a GAS which follows the ideal gas law of an increase in pressure increases the temperature. I'm not going to try and compute out the exact differences, for as I said, they are minor at best. So, the increase in temp. the oil sees from going through the pump is for all purposes, non-existent. Think about it, if it did increase in temp. everytime it went through the pump, it would steadily continue to increase on each pass through the pump until it overheated. (on edit, just to be clear, I realize there is a small amount of heat transfer from friction and the pump body, but I am ignoring that and addressing just the increase in the fluid pressure)

O and the guy that maid the pump its not on his car

Again, I obviously missed this reference. Could you please point it out to me. Are you talking about Ken Jones?

And this is from James:

The turbo auto pump is supposedly the best, but I can't get hard #'s on its flow. If you were to buy a pump for a turbo, non-turbo from your local auto store it is all the same pump. Best bet, get the turbo pump from MSA for $69
The turbo oil pump has 5mm larger internal rotors, hence the greater flow than your standard oil pump. I can only assume you mean you will not get an actual turbo pump when you ask for one at your local parts counter. I have gotten the correct one,(a turbo pump) three times out of three.

A whole bunch of misinformation, or worse, partial information floating around. I'm gonna stand by my insistence on more concrete proof. Z speed auto, you are not the first person whose post I broke down. Craig,(Lockjaw), is a recent victim. It is nothing on you, but rather the information you present. I think in your case, the presentation is severely hurting your delivery because many of us can't understand what you are trying to say. So if I misinterpreted any of your comments, please correct me and give others here a chance to laugh at my follies. Otherwise, address my issues.

-Bob Hanvey

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I was going to raise the issue of V8 pumps all being cast iron but Lockjaw beat me to it.

 

The oil pump is drawing directly off the sump, so that is probably the coolest oil in the system. If your oil is cooking in the pump then I would hate to see what it is doing inside the crank shaft passages.

 

And yes, copper has a MUCH higher thermal conductivity than aluminum. Look it up in a CRC manual. The only real advantage of aluminum is weight.

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