grillhands Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 Previous owner did this for some reason. What are my options? Do I really need the gland nut? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 It was probably coming loose. If you're replacing struts, the new struts should come with new gland nuts. I'd be more worried about the threads on the strut housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 Previous owner did this for some reason. What are my options? Do I really need the gland nut? Tack welds to keep it from spinning, or completely around? You'll understand the gland nut's purpose after you grind the welds to free the nut. BUT, you may actually be looking at the welds that hold the gland nut together itself. Aftermarket nuts typically have a flat hexagonal plate, for wrenching, welded on to a threaded core. Post a picture before you tear things up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thezguy Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 Yes you need the gland nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 A single, clean spot weld isn't a bad idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 You need to download a copy of the factory service manual (FSM) before you start working on the suspension. Some of the FSMs are available in one of the forums. Or do a google search. Also a Haynes manual. You are aware that you will need a spring compressor if you have to remove the strut (shock absorber). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grillhands Posted May 24, 2014 Author Share Posted May 24, 2014 He welded the entire gland nut, threads and all. I already removed the driver side but when I got to the passenger side it was all welded. I'll post a pic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grillhands Posted May 24, 2014 Author Share Posted May 24, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grillhands Posted May 24, 2014 Author Share Posted May 24, 2014 This is one side. The other side is much worse. It's a long bead but I already grind it off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 Looks like he/she/it used shock inserts that were too long and redneck engineered a way to make them fit. Depending on which side of it you are on, it is either brilliant or criminal. If you plan to keep this car very long, I would start looking for new tubes. Look on the bright side: good excuse to get some pre-made sectioned coilovers. It's gonna be lots of work, but you can turn lemons into lemonade! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sideways Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 Looks like he/she/it used shock inserts that were too long and redneck engineered a way to make them fit. Depending on which side of it you are on, it is either brilliant or criminal. If you plan to keep this car very long, I would start looking for new tubes. Look on the bright side: good excuse to get some pre-made sectioned coilovers. It's gonna be lots of work, but you can turn lemons into lemonade! Thankfully sugar isnt very expensive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grillhands Posted May 25, 2014 Author Share Posted May 25, 2014 Lol. Thanks guys for the help. Since we are the topic of red neck engineering I made a bandaid until I can get new tubes. I welded 4 small tack welds evenly spaced around the tube. Then I went to home depot and bought a 2 inch high density rubber plumbing cap. I drilled a hole through the center for the strut and t clamped the cap making sure the clamp was under the 4 welds. I took it on the worst road I know and hit some good size bumps. Got it home and jacked up the front and it didn't budge. It's memorial day weekend so I gotta have to roll up to barbeques lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grillhands Posted May 25, 2014 Author Share Posted May 25, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grillhands Posted May 25, 2014 Author Share Posted May 25, 2014 Here's my baby with a broken leg lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TTZ'sofSWMO Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 My strut tube has been cut and the threads are gone now and the tube is to short for a gland nut to reach the tube. I have a 8/73 260z. As I understand it, the strut tubes from 70-2/74 are the same, late 260 tubes are like half an inch longer. The thread of the gland nut is a m48 x 1.5p. U can order a tap on eBay from China for 120 bucks and takes 4 weeks. I called fastenal and a few other similar places and was quoted the same wait time with prices from 300-500 bucks, unless I want the tap in 6 days, them it cost 600. U could take it to a machine shop and have them cut threads in with a machine but will also be costly. What I did was made a bracket that went over the gland nut and welded it to the strut tube with my brand new strut installed. The strut rattles around in a strut tube until u get the gland nut all the way tight, so I had to get the strut in there and my bracket on there as tight as possible to hold it all as well as a gland nut would. I put a thick gasket material on the bottom of the strut and used a press to squish it all in tight while I welded it. I just used a few healthy tacks on each side and seems plenty strong. U could also make two 90degree angle pieces and weld it to the tube and drill a hole and weld a nut on bottom and use a bolt to thread through that and press down on the gland nut. This is all just temporary until a new strut tube is sourced. U can get em from zcarsource.com from 300 to 600 bucks. I am currently looking for a used one, and honestly looks more cost effective to get a cheap parts car. Until then,my bracket will work just fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 That's a super nice car. Definitely worth repairing when the time is right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m1ghtymaxXx Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 Just a thought, you could still use those strut housings to build coilovers with Bilstein dampers using the method shown in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/98897-step-by-step-coilover-conversion/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grillhands Posted May 26, 2014 Author Share Posted May 26, 2014 Thanks guys!! I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet. I just bought a washer dryer set because my wife demanded it lol. That money was supposed to go to my coilovers and wheels but she put a big X on that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.