20STi11 Posted July 22, 2014 Share Posted July 22, 2014 First off, hello there, my name is Brad. I am new here... and yes this is another SHOULD I BUY THIS post so any advice would be greatly appreciated. I've been searching my local area and nearby states for a Z car (specifically pre 1979... no ZX). I am planning on doing a budget build and not a restoration. I will be going for the classic JDM look (fender mirrors, flairs etc.). I am a performance car enthusiast and currently daily drive a 2011 Subaru STi, however performance is not my end goal. I already have a great performance car so I want something that looks different for cruising and taking to some shows. I love the way the classic Z cars look, even stock they are gorgeous. This may upset purists but imperfections don’t bother me and this car will be far from perfect for some time. The imperfections are character and show history. That being said I don’t want a complete ROT project, as many don’t. After searching I found what I think is the best deal I’ve seen so far and plan on going to check it out today with CASH in hand but would love to hear some opinions and words of caution from those more experienced than I. Here is the ad: http://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/4576768231.html This car is just up the road so it’s a lucky find in my opinion. Some more information from the guy after talking with him and looking at pictures he sent me. - The floor pans are not rusted through, only surface rust. - The electrical issue is because he had someone else wire the car and they used the wrong harness. Everything works (lights, turn signals etc) just some of it is mixed up, like the wipers are turned on VIA the defrost button . So nothing major and something I will fix. - He checked the wheel wells and strut tower areas and said nothing was rusted through (I will confirm this) - The car was originally from Texas but spent 2 years in Connecticut, that’s where the little bit of rust came from. It now resides in Columbia, SC. I originally set out to find a carbureted setup to eliminate EFI and having to work with ECU/tuning. I currently do that on my STi but it can be tougher than making adjustments to a ye ol’ carb setup. However he said it runs great and has no issues so I shouldn’t have to touch the engine much at the moment. The only issue comes in when I do have to. Maybe someone can shed some light on this part, is it a good setup, easy or hard to work with and so on. I think that is the only thing holding me back at the moment (besides the obvious that I haven’t seen it in person yet). I know I’m forgetting some small details so I will update if I can think of anything. Thanks in advance! Purchase Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted July 22, 2014 Share Posted July 22, 2014 Were I you I would ask - Was the engine rebuilt professionally (by whom, if so), or was it rebuilt in the owner's garage? What exactly does "rebuilt" mean? Where are the receipts? Which of the four FAST EFI systems is being used? Where is the dyno sheet? Then take it for a drive and see how it runs. Many people think that new gaskets and rings is a rebuild. Or new pistons and rings. Or just new gaskets. Your biggest problem is that you've been driving a newer maintenance-free car, and don't seem comfortable with engine work. You should probably take someone that knows engines along. People blow up fresh engines with turbos sometimes, just trying to tune them. Parts-wise, a professionally rebuilt engine, with a new FAST EFI system that works.might be worth the money alone. But an old engine with new pistons (because detonation destroyed the old ones) and a poorly tuned EFI system maybe not so much. The messed-up wiring has to make you wonder about the engine work. It does look interesting though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
20STi11 Posted July 22, 2014 Author Share Posted July 22, 2014 Were I you I would ask - Was the engine rebuilt professionally (by whom, if so), or was it rebuilt in the owner's garage? What exactly does "rebuilt" mean? Where are the receipts? Which of the four FAST EFI systems is being used? Where is the dyno sheet? Then take it for a drive and see how it runs. Many people think that new gaskets and rings is a rebuild. Or new pistons and rings. Or just new gaskets. Your biggest problem is that you've been driving a newer maintenance-free car, and don't seem comfortable with engine work. You should probably take someone that knows engines along. People blow up fresh engines with turbos sometimes, just trying to tune them. Parts-wise, a professionally rebuilt engine, with a new FAST EFI system that works.might be worth the money alone. But an old engine with new pistons (because detonation destroyed the old ones) and a poorly tuned EFI system maybe not so much. The messed-up wiring has to make you wonder about the engine work. It does look interesting though. Thanks for the help NewZed, I wrote down your questions so I CAN'T forget them. As for the FAST system, any particular one I should be looking for or avoiding? He said it cost him about $1,800. You might think my car is maintenance free but it's not... ... I've got a lot of work in it and I'm always have to adjust the tune. I guess it's a different type of "maintaining" but I'm not stranger to engines. I've worked on a lot of cars over the years. Restored a 1965 356SC Porsche, helped a buddy with his 351 Windsor powered RX-8 and so on. I'm also an engineer in the automotive (well diesel) industry, and I know that doesn't mean I actually know what I'm doing. Most of my fellow engineers don't know jack about engines or anything of that nature AT ALL. They could tell you sports statistics but when I talk engines... lights are on and nobody's home. My car isn't originally tuned by me but I do work with the tuning so I know a little. I know even less (OK... MUCH less) about these cars and their engines but I plan to learn every bit that I can before I screw it up. I'll be on here A LOT for research and advice. I do plan on taking a fellow engine guru buddy of mine that actually has an old Z. Hopefully he will be able to decide if it's a good deal or not. Again thanks for the advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted July 22, 2014 Share Posted July 22, 2014 Parts wise and price wise it looks like you are quite a bit ahead. I wouldn't be surprised if it did not last long König rewinds (I paid 300$ for just the rims of a used set) Rear disc brake (I paid 500$ for my kit without pads) Efi system (I paid 700$ for megasquirt) 280zx swap (last time I looked people were selling the complete swap for ~1k in decent condition) That alone adds up to 2500 or so, not a bad deal at all. I am with new zed on this one, definitely go and take a look. People's definition of surface rust and rebuilt are quite different. Badgering someone with a barrage of questions can be tiresome though, it may be wise to go up with a friend who is familiar with older cars or has done a restoration of some sort that meets your caliber of desire that knows what to look for. If you don't have a friend, join a local z club and see if anyone is willing to help. The rust is a bit concerning, this could either be a deal or a nightmare and it all depends on the condition of the chassis. It does seem like the seller is familiar with the cars given the work they have put in, and the pictures they have taken of the rust prone spots. Still a good idea to go with a strong flashlight and really prod and poke some areas with the sellers permission. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted July 22, 2014 Share Posted July 22, 2014 Actually, there are more variations than just four. I only know what I've picked up from various magazines and the internet over the years. http://www.fuelairspark.com/fas/efi-systems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
20STi11 Posted July 22, 2014 Author Share Posted July 22, 2014 Parts wise and price wise it looks like you are quite a bit ahead. I wouldn't be surprised if it did not last long König rewinds (I paid 300$ for just the rims of a used set) Rear disc brake (I paid 500$ for my kit without pads) Efi system (I paid 700$ for megasquirt) 280zx swap (last time I looked people were selling the complete swap for ~1k in decent condition) That alone adds up to 2500 or so, not a bad deal at all. I am with new zed on this one, definitely go and take a look. People's definition of surface rust and rebuilt are quite different. Badgering someone with a barrage of questions can be tiresome though, it may be wise to go up with a friend who is familiar with older cars or has done a restoration of some sort that meets your caliber of desire that knows what to look for. If you don't have a friend, join a local z club and see if anyone is willing to help. The rust is a bit concerning, this could either be a deal or a nightmare and it all depends on the condition of the chassis. It does seem like the seller is familiar with the cars given the work they have put in, and the pictures they have taken of the rust prone spots. Still a good idea to go with a strong flashlight and really prod and poke some areas with the sellers permission. Thanks for the quick price up, makes me feel even better about it. I planned on taking a nice pointy object and asking if I can poke around. Honestly I am a bit anxious about what I am going to find. Part of me wants to find a great deal the other half is afraid it will be a flop... Actually, there are more variations than just four. I only know what I've picked up from various magazines and the internet over the years. http://www.fuelairspark.com/fas/efi-systems I was on their site earlier. Looks pretty expensive. I'm willing to bet his is a bit older but I will take note of the model and look it up. Thanks for the link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 Even if it flops, if the engine, efi system, wheels, and suspension components check out you can always try to find a better condition shell and still end up a bit ahead. Honestly at that price the seller is either getting rid of the vehicle or doesn't want to deal with a bunch of hiding rust. I think on my local craigslist there is a guy selling just a rebuilt 280zx turbo motor for over 2k, so take it as you will. Personally if it drives, doesn't leak, and passes any scrutinizing with a point instrument, it looks like a good deal. ZRustGraphic.jpg Very good info graphic of places to look for. As long as your friend is familiar, it should be ok, although I have seen some Z's that I would consider scrap that people have advertised as just needs paint, and I have also seen Z's that are at the scrap yard that I could not figure out why they were there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted July 25, 2014 Share Posted July 25, 2014 Oh hell, it's cross posted... I was wondering where the hell my replies had gone for a second there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosaaen89 Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 Buy it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.