capriottikidd Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 whats up everyone, so I bought a 73 2400z project, the previous owner started to swap a z32 rear sub frame but didn't complete it. After looking through Mull's project HUGO, it looks like he used 2" square tubing for the sub frame mounts. So my plan was to build the sub frame mounts out of 2x.120" square tubing, and connect the rear sub frame to front with 2x3x.083" tubing. Stock ls1 is going in now, but have plans for a 6.0 turbo making between 600-650whp Would this be appropriate for the power I plan to make? The car will be media blasted after I finish the subframe/frame rails, then primed and any major rust will be repaired. Basically I want to build it right the first time so I don't have to tear it all down in the spring. This forum is awesome and filled with so much helpful info! Thank You! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 I think there's a guy on LS1tech that's doing the same thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1525949-project-steezee-1973-datsun-240z-lq9-v8-build-3.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capriottikidd Posted October 9, 2014 Author Share Posted October 9, 2014 thank you! also I noticed you have techno toy tuning suspension on your 280z, I plan on running their front suspension parts. Do you have any comments/ recommend them over Arizona Z cars front suspension? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 It's heavy duty, that's for sure. I have never seen AZcar stuff in person, so I don't know what's better. The only complaint I have with the TTT stuff is that it's hard to get the car even. I had to put the tall 280Z strut bushing back on the rear because I couldn't get it high enough, and I can't get the front low enough to lo level the car. I guess it's made to be used with camber plates maybe? I had to crank the back up pretty hard that it's a very rough ride in the back while the front I have so far down that the spring is just starting to get loose. This is all with the car lifted off the ground. I would like the car to be an inch lower but I don't feel comfortable with having the spring rattle around almost an inch when the car is off the ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-E Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 The z32 subframe will be ridiculously wide relative to what was in there, if you're going widebody this may make sense, otherwise I'd recommend opting for one of the narrower ones, specifically s14... Post some pics of the progress they made? The "Steezee" approach isn't exactly a clean one, it was rejigged a few times throughout the build. I actually produce a subframe swap kit for the S12/Z31, it really simplifies the process if done right, and while I'm not suggesting it would help you a whole lot (hell I don't even know what you have yet), I think you might want to at least see it... http://responsetype.com/shop/gazelle-s12/subframe-swap-kit-2/ Replicating the mounts and notching the body will let you swap between s13 and s14 subframes using their offset solid bushings, the S13 has more anti-squat built-in, which is great for drifting, the S14 is favoured by road racers. The Z32 subframe geometry is somewhere between, but closer to S13, and a whole lot wider. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube80z Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 whats up everyone, so I bought a 73 2400z project, the previous owner started to swap a z32 rear sub frame but didn't complete it. After looking through Mull's project HUGO, it looks like he used 2" square tubing for the sub frame mounts. So my plan was to build the sub frame mounts out of 2x.120" square tubing, and connect the rear sub frame to front with 2x3x.083" tubing. Stock ls1 is going in now, but have plans for a 6.0 turbo making between 600-650whp Would this be appropriate for the power I plan to make? The car will be media blasted after I finish the subframe/frame rails, then primed and any major rust will be repaired. Basically I want to build it right the first time so I don't have to tear it all down in the spring. This forum is awesome and filled with so much helpful info! Thank You! Why are you using a 240Z? You're adding a frame that sounds more like it's built for a 3/4 ton truck. Why not go with the heavier 280 body and reinforce that. If you're using 2x2 why not thinner? I would think 0.65 would be more than enough and you can almost get two for the price of one weight wise. I'd personally have some sheet folded that mimicked the front rail to add in the back. Then up top do the same but tie into the seat mounts and tranny area boxing that in. Then complete an X rocker to rocker. Take a look at the maier reinforcement for the convertible 65 mustangs. The X will help with stiffness more than two parallel connectors. http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/Suspension/images/PNMS2214B_App_650w.jpg Cary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capriottikidd Posted October 14, 2014 Author Share Posted October 14, 2014 Why are you using a 240Z? You're adding a frame that sounds more like it's built for a 3/4 ton truck. Why not go with the heavier 280 body and reinforce that. If you're using 2x2 why not thinner? I would think 0.65 would be more than enough and you can almost get two for the price of one weight wise. I'd personally have some sheet folded that mimicked the front rail to add in the back. Then up top do the same but tie into the seat mounts and tranny area boxing that in. Then complete an X rocker to rocker. Take a look at the maier reinforcement for the convertible 65 mustangs. The X will help with stiffness more than two parallel connectors. http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/Suspension/images/PNMS2214B_App_650w.jpg Cary Cary, those tube sizes came from a bunch of searches on this topic. Maybe 2x2x.083 through out would be good? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capriottikidd Posted October 14, 2014 Author Share Posted October 14, 2014 The z32 subframe will be ridiculously wide relative to what was in there, if you're going widebody this may make sense, otherwise I'd recommend opting for one of the narrower ones, specifically s14... Post some pics of the progress they made? The "Steezee" approach isn't exactly a clean one, it was rejigged a few times throughout the build. I actually produce a subframe swap kit for the S12/Z31, it really simplifies the process if done right, and while I'm not suggesting it would help you a whole lot (hell I don't even know what you have yet), I think you might want to at least see it... http://responsetype.com/shop/gazelle-s12/subframe-swap-kit-2/ Replicating the mounts and notching the body will let you swap between s13 and s14 subframes using their offset solid bushings, the S13 has more anti-squat built-in, which is great for drifting, the S14 is favoured by road racers. The Z32 subframe geometry is somewhere between, but closer to S13, and a whole lot wider. Ill post up some pics of their progress made. I just got the body in the air today actually, used modified Harbor Freight engine stands for a DIY rotisserie. Im working on the car thursday and friday! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
str8pipez Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 2x2x065 is way common. If you are having trouble finding it try Alro Steel, they are nationwide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eskwire88 Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 I used either .083 or .065. cant quite remember. Z32 is ridiculously wide, i can attest. I had to widen the car 8 inches and still had to use +45 offset wheels to tuck them under. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capriottikidd Posted October 15, 2014 Author Share Posted October 15, 2014 I used either .083 or .065. cant quite remember. Z32 is ridiculously wide, i can attest. I had to widen the car 8 inches and still had to use +45 offset wheels to tuck them under. Thanks for the pictures, this is how i envisioned my set up to be as well. Do you have any more pics of your build? Did you fab custom floor pans too? Ill be replacing my floors too and am curious to how you did yours. Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eskwire88 Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 I just made flat floors, raised to the pinch welds along the rockers. A rotisserie is pretty much mandatory for fabbing the rear subframe. Can't imagine doing it any other way. Mine was scrap plywood and 2x6's. Strong enough to stand on, did two cars with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eskwire88 Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 Sorry for tiny pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 I did the 2x3 0.083 frame rail connectors, you do end up in the cabin if you try to maintain the rocker height. I have seems some people run 1x3 .083 to get around that problem. In the front I used 2.5x2.5 .120 to replace the front portion of the frame rail that had rotted away, I will have to echo that .120 really is quite thick, had to use a lot of amperage to get good penetration, and welding that onto the thin sheet metal was not a fun task. I think .065 might be a little bit on the thin side, but as long as you didn't crush the tubes and used posts where applicable it should be just fine, I think .065 is that's the thickness of the tube that is holding up my fuel cell, structurally sound, but I'm not sure it would handle a twisting load from the chassis directly for long periods of time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capriottikidd Posted October 16, 2014 Author Share Posted October 16, 2014 Little update... I spent some time today really getting to see how much was done(wasn't much besides cutting aimlessly) It needs a lot of work, i have a pretty good mental plan on how i will run the new subframe mounts. Im going to replace the cut out frame rails and mount it directly to that with studs welded in with a sleeve inside the tube. Then connect the front and rear subframe mounts. I also measured the thickness of the old frame rails and they were .065" so I'm going to be ordering some 2" square tubing in that thickness tonight. Hopefully will be here early next week. Unfortunately my phone decided to delete the pictures i took today so i will add them tomorrow…. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TUME Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 I think you are messed up geometry with mounting subframe so low. Yes I know it´s much easier like that but control arms will be funny positions if you like car is decently low. This is how you should do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
primeral Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 Tume, got any more pictures of this build? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TUME Posted December 20, 2014 Share Posted December 20, 2014 (edited) Tume, got any more pictures of this build? http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/120418-arttu%C2%B4s-240z-never-ready/ <- Short story, I can add more info if intrested.... Edited December 20, 2014 by TUME Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zilverbullet77 Posted May 17, 2015 Share Posted May 17, 2015 (edited) I did the 2x3 0.083 frame rail connectors, you do end up in the cabin if you try to maintain the rocker height. I have seems some people run 1x3 .083 to get around that problem. In the front I used 2.5x2.5 .120 to replace the front portion of the frame rail that had rotted away, I will have to echo that .120 really is quite thick, had to use a lot of amperage to get good penetration, and welding that onto the thin sheet metal was not a fun task. I think .065 might be a little bit on the thin side, but as long as you didn't crush the tubes and used posts where applicable it should be just fine, I think .065 is that's the thickness of the tube that is holding up my fuel cell, structurally sound, but I'm not sure it would handle a twisting load from the chassis directly for long periods of time. I don't mean to hijack your thread but I have a question I have been searching for, for hours. This is the closest thread I could find to answering my question.Is the bottom side of the frame rail level with the rocker or is it lower? If lower, how much? Thanks Edited May 17, 2015 by zilverbullet77 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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