konradlip Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 I'm in the process of redoing a couple of thins on my l28et swapped 280z and i noticed that the oil line for the turbo is kinked in few places. I want to replace it while the intake and exhaust manifold is off. I dont want to go cheap but I also dont want to spend a 100 dollars. I was thinking maybe SS line or should I just get a brake line and bend it. I done some research and it left me with more questions than answers. I did find this http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CXR&Product_Code=OL-AN4-90S-51&Category_Code=FUSM and i was wondering what are your thought on it and maybe what else besides that would I need to mount it. Thanks guys. PS also I want to upgrade the turbo in the future to T3/T4 so I want something future proof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260ZT Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 I bought this one for my 260z conversion http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic18b/10-2114 It's a factory replacement at $73. It's worked well on my car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 eBay is your friend, Kunigawa makes some nice Nissan turbo feed/drain parts kits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
konradlip Posted October 28, 2014 Author Share Posted October 28, 2014 I would buy the stock one from z store but it seems to be more than a aftermarket one. Does anyone know what kind of fitting i need to connect to the little metal splitter where oil pressure sender is. I know the other end is a banjo fitting. Also what kind of oil restrictor do I need? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pac_Man Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 You can get adapters to go from metric to AN fittings. Banjo bolt should be 12mmx1.5 pitch BNPT. Not sure about the other side where it bolts into the T fitting on the block but I get the feeling it's 6 or 8mm. I'll check the nut size with a wrench later when I go work on my engine and that should tell me the thread size. Then get a couple adapters to go to a proper size. The stock feed line is around 3/16" ID so you wouldn't want to use anything bigger than AN-3 for the line. Even AN-2 should be fine but might as well stick to what the car came with right? Then it's just a simple matter of getting some braided line (you can buy this on ebay by the foot), some AN fittings, and putting it all together. AN fittings are a breeze to install. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scapy Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 I have a 280z with an L28et swap as well, but mine was missing the turbo oil feed line so I have absolutely no idea where it is supposed to go (So i cant just order a kit online because I don't know how long the tube needs to be).... Could you possibly take a pic or explain where it is supposed to connect to block from the turbo??!! Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
konradlip Posted October 31, 2014 Author Share Posted October 31, 2014 Pac_Man i was thinking about having a AN4 line with the end that is 0.08 in diameter from this website http://www.siliconeintakes.com/braided-stainless-steel-lines/-p-598.html along with the hose i mentioned above. Scapy- the turbo feed line connect from a little metal block (that has a pressure sender on the end off it) thats about 3 inches right off the oil filter to the top of the middle of the turbo. send me pics of what you got. sorry i dont have any but I just got a new phone today and all my pics are gone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scapy Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 Alright thanks for the reply konradlip, I see these on on the passenger side of my engine: ' Is it the one to the right of the filter? If so, I'm sure thats the wrong thing there, looks like the previous owner just put it there to plug up the hole (because it has teflon tape sealing it) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winstonusmc Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 that is an oil pressure dummy light switch. On my setup, I bought an NPT to AN3 adapter and retapped the origional T fitting. The origional T fitting is tapped for metric pipe threads. I just drill it out and tapped it and made sure it didnt leak. The AN3 fitting on the turbo size is available everywhere as its a standard T3. Dont buy a cheap one as the aluminum will deform and leak. I cant remember the length I used, but I wish I would have gotten 6 inches shorter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 The standard feed size is A/N-3, the -4 is needlessly big, and a restrictor will be necessary, for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scapy Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 Wait so the thread of the inlet plate on the turbo is 3an or 4an? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
konradlip Posted November 2, 2014 Author Share Posted November 2, 2014 its a m12x1.25 banjo bolt i believe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pac_Man Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 (edited) I've been looking into this myself recently and this is the best I can come up with. One of these (T3 AN4 oil feed flange with a 1mm restrictor): And a couple of these (45 degree AN4 fittings): And one of these (1/8 BSPT to AN4 adapter): And of course a few feet of line. Not sure off the top of my head how many feet you'd need but I'd guess somewhere in the 5-6 range. Always better to have some left over though. That's the best setup I've been able to come up with with very little work. Basically a plug and play option. 1mm restrictor was the smallest I could find. Edited November 3, 2014 by Pac_Man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 http://www.ebay.com/itm/141452891585 $9.00, be done with it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scapy Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 No Tony, Your line needs to be at least 45" long... 50" to be safe (measured it with some spare fuel lines i had sitting around) Trust me I tried so hard to find one of those kits that were not FREAKING 36" long........ why the hell wouldn't they have different lengths? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pac_Man Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 (edited) Plus, that has an NPT fitting on one end. The stock oil tee fitting is BSPT. I also came up with a measurement of ~4 feet of line today by doing a rough measurement. Generally you can only order in increments of 1 foot anyway. I think those 36" kits are directed toward those with 4 cylinder engines. Edited November 4, 2014 by Pac_Man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
konradlip Posted November 4, 2014 Author Share Posted November 4, 2014 Guys try this for help https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=3142 it should eliminate the need to re-tap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
konradlip Posted November 4, 2014 Author Share Posted November 4, 2014 Go to this website https://www.pegasusautoracing.com and check out this part numbers 1.HE050-03P-000 2.HE095-03P-000 3.3260-3-INCH Total cost is 55 without shipping but its quality and perfect fit. I'm thinking 44 inches should be enough Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pac_Man Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 I went with the setup I suggested, found sellers in the US to cut down shipping times (parts from China will be cheaper but can take a while to arrive... expect a week minimum usually 2 or more), and got everything for about $47. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 I was giving an example. As someone who owns pipe taps, and can have -3 braided stainless steel lines made up...this really doesn't present a big issue for me. I only used the above as an example. It is not the kunigawa setup I bought from Diamond Bar. It was asinine, I had to pay delivery from a street address that I literally could WALK to from my business office! If I recall, the price I paid was $32, and it all looped around the back of the engine nicely to to turbo with some nice high-temp adel clamps and fittings to go into the block, restrictor orifice fitting, banjo bolt, and some drain tubing stuff that I just tossed in the tool box. It was a direct bolt in for the stock L28ET I had in my red 260Z. It was not the 9$ kit shown above. That was just an example. Getting that hose made is easy just about anywhere stateside. Actually, the more rural, the better in most cases! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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