seattlejester Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 Yes something like that, it would need red locktite to make sure it doesn't spin with a bolt you put in, and you would have to make sure it would be rated for the proper load, some other things into consideration are the thread engagement length, the amount of room you have, but like all fixes it has up and downsides. That is just one of the methods here and probably not the best. NewZed is right, you might want to find someone more mechanically inclined who understands the problems that you will run into to help you with the installation or to see about one of the other methods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted August 25, 2016 Share Posted August 25, 2016 Way too much overthinking. Put a thread insert into it and be done with it. Whatever size. The nut plate is a minimum 10mm thick, that is the largest bolt it will support. Put a case-saver or thread zert in there or double helicoil... There is nothing here requiring anything to be cut out and welded nor replaced. Argh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stunt Posted November 8, 2016 Author Share Posted November 8, 2016 UPDATE: Got my transmission mounted back up. Engine is running but running too rich. I got the front SU carb to perfect air/fuel according to the Gunson tool. The rear SU carb is too rich even if I totally lean it out. Still perplexed, but determined to get it running good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calZ Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 How did you end up solving the problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calZ Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 How did you end up solving the problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stunt Posted November 8, 2016 Author Share Posted November 8, 2016 I ended up cutting the old floating frame nuts out bending the tab down and bending it back. JB weld the metal back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calZ Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 Which tab? The one that supports the nut? I hope you're not saying the transmission crossmember is supported by JB weld. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stunt Posted November 8, 2016 Author Share Posted November 8, 2016 I cut out an upside U-shaped tab where the floating nuts would be and bent it down. Then bent the tab holding the floating nut upwards. Changed out the floating nuts. Bent both tabs back into place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 calz is making the point that the weight of the transmission is hanging on the nuts which are sitting on top of the metal tabs that are glued in place. Not a bad fix if you had welded instead of JB Welded. If the JB Weld fails the back of your engine will drop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stunt Posted November 8, 2016 Author Share Posted November 8, 2016 I'll take a pic soon and post it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 I think Stunt is saying he cut it from one face, so technically it is still supported by other faces. I don't think that was a good idea. It is boxed in and you cut out one side of the box and glued it back, JB weld is good for somethings, but really not adequate for others. Especially if you are gluing edge to edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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