JoeK Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/gtx2-front-lower-control-arms-and-tc-rods-datsun-240z-260z-and-280z Has anyone seen or tried these yet? They are pretty new to the website, and looks like the same pictures as the ones for Celicas and maybe some other cars as well. Their original set comes out about $40 more. They look, to my untrained eye, stouter but with less adjustability. Just wondering if anyone has thoughts on these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube80z Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 Years ago we did something like that and found using the double rod ends didn't work. Under hard braking the wheels hopped. If you replaced the rod end on the control arm it was fine. I don't see how these would solve that problem unless I'm missing something fundamental. Cary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miky360 Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 About to find out. Installing them some time this month and tracking as soon as I'm done alignment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 So, tube80z, so what you are saying is that there needs to be a rigid attachment from the control arm to the T-C rod? To keep the control arm from flailing around in a rotational direction? I wonder if a pin and clevis would work better without a bearing at the control arm/T-C rod junction. Most guys still active on this site will likely never see what some of us call "heavy braking". How "heavy" are you talking about? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeK Posted May 9, 2015 Author Share Posted May 9, 2015 The TC Rod from AZC also has a double rod end design. Miky360, could you post some pics of the actual parts? And let me /us know your driving impressions. Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube80z Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 So, tube80z, so what you are saying is that there needs to be a rigid attachment from the control arm to the T-C rod? To keep the control arm from flailing around in a rotational direction? I wonder if a pin and clevis would work better without a bearing at the control arm/T-C rod junction. Most guys still active on this site will likely never see what some of us call "heavy braking". How "heavy" are you talking about? Yes, just need to remove this extra degree of freedom. Braking level was 1 G or so. Wheel hopped so bad it broke the rod end. If you have the strut off and just the steering arm on and you move through rotation and it suddenly flops from front to back that's a sure sign you'll have an issue. At lower load never a problem. The other issue I see in this is that you're going to see higher tie-rod loads. So on a car where those are older or marginal you might have a problem. It's an easy fix if you do run into the problem. Simple sub in a solid rod and and declare victory. Cary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-E Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 Yes, you need the two arms solidly attached, and then the two rodends at the body make it act like a bind-free A-arm. If you look at the AZCAR kit you see they use a clevis which prevents deflection somewhat. I really don't understand TTT, they make a lot of noob mistakes in their designs, like making something super strong, with a super weak spot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spooky_Intentions Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 What is everyones opinion on what the best front control arm set up that you can buy non custom is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 They make the one with the heim only on the inbound end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 Stock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miky360 Posted May 16, 2015 Share Posted May 16, 2015 They look exactly the same as the pictures online lol if you really must then look up my Instagram is there: miky360 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miky360 Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 (edited) I think T3 needs to include instructions with this setup. Had to send my stock steering knuckle to be machined in order for the LCA to fit. Sooooo that also means any aftermarket steering knuckle like the AZC will also need to be machined to fit. Sorry it took a while for install. Had coilover issues and had to order a new setup which took a month for arrival. Edited July 15, 2015 by miky360 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeK Posted July 15, 2015 Author Share Posted July 15, 2015 What part of the steering knuckle did you have to get modified? Would bump steer spacers have made any difference? And did you talk to T3 about the issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miky360 Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 No, I also have the bump steer installed. I'll take a pic when I get the knuckle back from the machine shop. It's the middle hole between the bump steer ones Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeK Posted July 15, 2015 Author Share Posted July 15, 2015 So the hole that the ball joints bolts through to was the wrong size or taper? Interested to see the pic. I'll be at T3 Friday to drop off some parts and will ask about it. Maybe I'll bring a steering knuckle with me as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeK Posted July 20, 2015 Author Share Posted July 20, 2015 I asked gabriel about any issues he has heard of with these. He said he's already sold around 200 sets and the only thing he has heard is on the very early cars the ball joint pin is smaller, 11mm I think he said, compared to later models with a 17mm? taper pin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miky360 Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 Here's another issues I ran into over the weekend. My front wheels are 15x9 -13. Damaged my watanabes pretty bad. Had to run a 25mm spacer just to clear this much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miky360 Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 I hand tightened it for reference pictures but the damage was done when it was fully tightened Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeK Posted September 8, 2015 Author Share Posted September 8, 2015 Thanks for the warning. I'll bw running 17's, so should have more clearance but will certainly check to be sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miky360 Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 Update: It's not clearing because of the AZC Roll Centre Adjusters/Steering knuckle. (They're adding about another inch or so) But usually, when you order aftermarket arms, chances are you have coils or some kind of lowering setup and RCA's are almost mandatory no? So I wonder why, T3 didn't consider this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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