xringx Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 Pics say it all....rusted, spongy crappy crap Drivers side 1st Passenger side 2nd.. I really dont want to scrap the car, as you are seeing the worst. I am a fair welder with an excellent shop and tools. Here is what I am thinking: 2.5" square tubing all around. Mary up some Badog floor pain rails? I have never done this on a car. Is this thought process correct? 1. level car, measuring level on the door frame sills. 2. cut out front frame at the bend on the top where its spot welded to body work (need repair there also) 3. cut out rest of rusted sheet metal parts 4. repair sheet metal in prep for new frame rails 5. level new frame rails, weld in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rturbo 930 Posted July 5, 2015 Share Posted July 5, 2015 What does the rest of the car look like? I know you said you don't want to scrap it, but I'm just looking at the holes in your strut towers, inner fenders, and your frame rails, and wondering just how much of this car is left. If you do decide to fix it, square tubing is what I would use. It's been done a few times on here. 240hoke has done it, and so has wheelman, and a handful of other people that I can't remember. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xringx Posted July 5, 2015 Author Share Posted July 5, 2015 Rest of car is good to very good.. very minor outer damage to the body (spot on the hood).. no rust damage in the back end. There are some pinholes where the front windshield gasket was and water would be trapped..but other than that.. its all very good. Floor pans need replaced and firewall needs repairs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xringx Posted July 5, 2015 Author Share Posted July 5, 2015 Also.. really appreciate the names of those that have gone before me on this... I have trouble searching on here for some reason... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rturbo 930 Posted July 5, 2015 Share Posted July 5, 2015 (edited) Both of them did it long time ago, and I wasn't sure if all the pics, etc. were still up. So I took a look, and found it. Might've been hard to find otherwise. http://www.vikingds.com/zcarguy/rebuild-status.html http://www.vikingds.com/zcarguy/rebuild-status.pdf Same content, different formats... I have no idea if 240hoke's build is still up. But you could probably PM him and see what he has to say. I know there's others who have done it, just can't remember who... Edited July 5, 2015 by rturbo 930 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TUME Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 Been there, done that. So has "Mull" etc. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/51969-1971-n1-rb26-240z-project-hugo/?hl=%2Bproject+%2Bhugo Pretty much like you said. Level the car, on rockers. I made it upside down. After that i made new frame and after that weld it back to chassis. Or fenderwells and floor, to be precise. Btw, as you can see i made it 40x60mm tube, because i wanted raise the crossmember, to get better geometry to front suspension. Also did those tension rod mounts to chassis little different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 Parts car. Pull all the good parts and body panels and then scrap it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 Depends on how much you got it for. You could square it up, and potentially fix it, but it depends on your skill level as a fabricator. I've met several people who were confident on their welds and looking at one of their beads I knew they would fail at any certification test. This requires stripping all the surrounding metal and cutting away rust, locating the frame and welding it back in and filling the gaps. Once the main square frame is installed then you have to locate the tension rod mounts and the cross member mounts. These will all have to be located in space as you will most likely have to remove the factory mounts. This means body alignment comes into play. If you got it for cheap then I agree with John, pull good parts and even good sections and scrap the rest for scrap costs. Find a better shell and put on the good parts. If there are no cars close by, you are not willing to fly/ship, or you are willing to dump money and time into what you currently have, then put a plan together with how you are going to level, locate, align, and try to upgrade your fair welding to competent by attending a class or getting some tutelage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube80z Posted July 21, 2015 Share Posted July 21, 2015 If you do decide to rebuild I would look very hard to modern cars and how they have reinforced the tire well near the driver's feet. If your welding in tubing it wouldn't take a whole lot more to strengthen that area. It is one of those things you never want to find and when you have an attachment to a car it doesn't help. If you can overcome that and objectively look at what you have and different options you'll be money ahead in the long run. Good luck, Cary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.