hooahh3 Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 Hi all. New to this forum and slightly new to Z's. Had an 05 350z before now onto a 76' 280z. I have a 5.3/4l60e waiting to swap in at the moment. I had planned on going full fiberglass front quarters, doors, hatch to rear quarters to drop weight and get the flares built in for a better look. But something that I just thought of is twisting. With all the steel panels replaced with fiberglass I wonder how much rigidity would be lost from the over all car vs. stock. Especially when you add a 330ish hp tourqe monster v8 in the equation. Would the car just twist like a pretzel as soon as I get on it 1 good time? Does anybody have experience with this happening or know of such? All the searches I did pulled up people installing body panels nothing after they drive the car. Thanks for any insight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
budgy Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 Body panels themselves have very little effect on the chassis twisting if at all. The weight lost if anything might reduce the stress on the chassis because it is not strictly power that harms anything it is GRIP with lots of power behind it that causes these kinds of issues. So if you put sticky tires on the back end which I am assuming you will because you are running a V8 then you should reinforce the chassis somehow. Bad Dog Frame rails and/or a cage would probably be worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooahh3 Posted August 25, 2015 Author Share Posted August 25, 2015 Not going full sticky, this will be street driven a lot more then tracked. Probably just some really good P zero's or maybe some cheater slicks. Thanks for your input, ill look into those frame rails. Probably not going cage just yet. If I start getting serious with the track then defiantly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 The nickname for the 240Z was the "flexi-flyer" because of it's lack of torsional rigidity. The 280Z has more steel in it and is somewhat stiffer but will still flex. I would strongly recommend front and rear strut tower braces and at least a 4-pt roll bar. If you can tie the roll bar to the roof of the car that would be even better. I have this without being tied to the roof and it has survived an LS1/T56 installation for 12 years of driving. The 280Z has full length frame rails where the 240Z did not. If you're going for torsional rigidity then stronger frame rails really aren't going to contribute to that all that much. If your stock frame rails are in good shape you shouldn't have to do anything there. Look at Racetep strut tower braces. They are not adjustable but are very sturdy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooahh3 Posted August 26, 2015 Author Share Posted August 26, 2015 yes. strut bars are on my "definitely" list. Im going to keep the truck style intake for its tourqe factor so im undecided on the front bar. ill have to make a custom cowl/corvette type hood(will be a great ram air setup). Not sure i can run a traditional bar with that. Maybe do some triangulation and tie them into where the old hood latch is(going with pins)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooahh3 Posted August 26, 2015 Author Share Posted August 26, 2015 In what you said about the 280z having more steel, i was thinking part of that may have been in the body its self(like with crash bar in the doors) so i was worried about taking all of that out by accident Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 You will be fine; we have forum members with 1000hp and no chassis stiffening. Get to work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rturbo 930 Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 You will be fine; we have forum members with 1000hp and no chassis stiffening. Get to work! We do? Regardless, 1000hp in a stock chassis isn't a good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 930. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/119982-2jz-overkill-z-for-sale-35k-obo/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 931 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 Don't tell them that-they are having too much fun! Specifically jnjdragracing, 1 QUICK Z, and thezguy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooahh3 Posted August 27, 2015 Author Share Posted August 27, 2015 2560lbs!!!!! with out me in it. Got the car weighed at a local scale house today. Thats all stock panels, junk in the back and no AC or bumpers. That's awesome! well on my way to my 2550-2600lb finished goal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 There are people who run no chassis stiffening with huge hp. Not the best idea, but you can do it for a while.If you decide to go down that road, search "chassis stiffening" and you'll find a TON of info on how to improve the situation. My favorite example for a street car is Dan McGrath's car (username 74_5.0L_Z -- check his photo album). He basically did a convertible cage inside the Z body, so no A pillar bar or halo to smack your head on, and his car was wrecked in the front so he did a whole new tube front end. You could use the existing front and still make use of a lot of his ideas. His whole damn car is pretty awesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texis30O Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 I am in WAY behind at 624..... but bumping up to 800ish at the end of the year..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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