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Dexter72's 2JZ NA-T Budget Swap..

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post-3128-0-10004800-1448135065_thumb.jpg  Looking Sweeeeet.


FFIM finally i found one that wasn't $800. Lol  Ebay companies had sold out of these so the only one left that had them wanted $800 each. Lol Since i had to wait on my turbo manifold anyway. I waited and searched daily for 3 weeks and finally found someone selling his on ebay. So I just paid his $125. buy it now price for it... 2 weeks after i bought this, the ebay companies started stocking them again.




Firewall is a mess and inner fenders are as well. Cleaned them up and painted them with Bedliner paint.






Checking intake clearance, about 1/2 inch of space between brake booster and intake. Firewall and fenders all finished.. Engine is back in for the last time. Crappy looking valve cover is on. Making sure i can remove them if needed. I removed the rear most valve cover studs at the back of the head, And added bolts, otherwise you can't take the valve covers off.


post-3128-0-04418400-1448136281_thumb.jpg  Engine parts all painted up on the stand. Under the spark plug cover you can see the oil feed line i ran. I bent it and ran it under the cover. Just looks better to me, the cleaner you can run lines.





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Now we get to the fun stuff. How am i going to run this engine.




Running a toothed wheel setup.. DIY.com  Ford Edis 6. from a Mid 80's 6cyl Ford Ranger... Toothed wheel sensor from a Taurus. I already had a Megasquirt 2 Stand alone system, running the L28NA-T on my start page.


I ground down some of the crank bolt so the wheel would sit flush on the balancer with the bolt tight.. 2J balancer only has 2 bolt holes to bolt a trigger wheel onto.. I wasn't comfortable with that.. So in my searching i found that the 1JZ balancer has 4 holes in the balancer. But the 2 extra holes are just holes, no threads but they are all perfectly centered. Only difference between the 2 balancers..  I bought a 1J balancer. Drilled the 2 extra holes so i could put thread inserts in them.




You can see the Trigger wheel and Sensor on the front of the engine.




As the picture says.. We only had one guy that I worked with who was thin enough to get their arm all the way inside the intake. I say he was 120lbs Soaking wet. The intake is bolted from the inside, I added studs to the rear intake plenum before having him tighten them up for me. My man was Shoulder Deep up in it. Lol  Hope all his young ladies appreciate how deep he will go.






Put all the goodies on it and Started labeling and running the sensor wires and Edis wires.


Now where to mount the Edis6 coil pack, to keep the clean look going.




Inside the cowl works for me. I removed the wiper motor and parts 13 years ago. Since it rarely rains in Phoenix anyway.. Choices were RainX or don't drive it when its raining. I have a small bottle of RainX in my glove box, just in case i get caught in the rain.




When i was waiting on my exhaust manifold i was still working on things and figuring out things.. Made this shield to protect the wiring that has to run on top of the passenger side frame rail.. Factory wiring for the lights and alternator.. Made a heavy duty battery mount similar to the factory battery mount. I will have a couple of things bolted to the battery mount.










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The Transmission sits forward a little over an inch then i expected. I did the measuring before i got the 2j bell housing. Found out afterwards that the 2j bell housing is an inch shorter than the 5mge bell housing the trans came with.. Damn.. SO that made the driveshaft that much shorter.. I ended up buying a 1 1/2 thick, aluminum drive shaft spacer from ebay, to make up for the gap. I had it drilled to match the rear pinion flange bolt pattern.. I swapped the Datsun drive shaft front yoke for the Toyota drive shaft yoke. I kept the Datsun drive shaft.. I found a u-joint that was perfect for that. Had to press the Old Staked In u-joint caps out. and it was done.. 




This is my 3/4 inch aluminum plate to mount the throttle body to the Xs power intake.. I couldn't find a Q45 throttle body, which is recommended for that intake. But i found the throttle body off the Lexus LS 400, non Traction control, would work.. So I worked on how to mount both up. I ended up drilling the plate to match the intake thread holes.. But I drilled one of the holes way off. :angry:  Went to Harbor freight to try out those alumi weld rods, to fill in the hole and re-drill the plate. Well the damn things worked out fine. I heated up the aluminum plate with a torch.. Had a peice of steel underneath the plate. And it took 2 rods to fill in the hole. Let it cool on its own over night.. Checked it and it was good to go. Drilled the hole in the correct spot with no issues. I tapped threads into the front of the plate for studs and the throttle body slid right on. 


post-3128-0-18202800-1448419655_thumb.jpg Working on the inter cooler mounting brackets. My beat up 7MGTE Inter cooler..



  Working on Inter cooler pipe routing. You can see my Pcv abd booster hoses coming through the firewall




Fuel pressure regulator mounted, fuel hoses run.. Oil Dip stick tube bent to come up between the intake runners.. Made a bracket to mount it steady..











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For the throttle cable i used a long cruise control cable from some toyota.. Lol  Made a cable bolt thingy to secure the cable to the Z throttle rod bracket..  I couldnt find the right type of cable collar at a bike shop, so i made this.






I used the fan because im old school, I have seen 2 of these go bad in all my years of working on cars. That's almost 30 years. I cut a half inch off of each blade tip to make sure i had good clearance for my lower radiator hose and top running inter cooler pipe..




Found a Ford throttle body hose that fit the 2 1/2 intercooler piping and was a tad bit large for the Toyota throttle body.. Made a spacer for the throttle body to ford hose connection.. The Ford hose had a port in it to mount my Intake temp sensor for Megasquirt 2.


I got the engine to run but it took 3 weeks to figure a Megasquirt 2 settings issue.. Megasquirt Unit couldn't see the crank sensor signal. Even though the engine would run if i sprayed starting fluid in the throttle body. Engine had spark and fuel..








Engine is all done..


For exhaust i just used he back half of the 3'' flowmaster setup that was on it.. Used a few pieces from a 3'' system i got from the Junkyard.. Braze welded it all together with a oxy/acetelyne torch..


I drove it home Nov 1st.. Had good power for no boost driving. i figured it would be a dog. Tuning it as i drive it.. Boost doesnt really kick in until about 4k right now. Going to lean out the freeway numbers some to try to it to boost sooner in 4th gear.. It pulls hard at 4k but i dont have the higher end tuned yet so i dont push it. Gt35 turbo 68. ar housing.. Think it should boost by 3500 rpm. Its cool weather in Phoenix now so when i have time to drive and tune i do.


Exhaust is loud as hell so may remove the Fowmaster and find a quieter muffler.. Has a little drone to it at 2500rpm which i am fine with but me and my buddy cant talk to each other in the car.its so loud. Lol






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I appreciate the members who post pics and info of their build threads, I read a ton of threads on here and on the Lexus forum. Tons of info to use and save.


This cost me about $1,100. Max.. I rebuilt the engine, bearings rings valve job. I already had the Megasquirt2 Stand alone unit and harness.. So tack on another $600 bucks for that stuff. You can run these engines off of a 2JGTE Ecu.. or any other Stand Alone unit.. I went with thr trigger wheel, sensor and coil pack because the Megasquirt is already set up to run that system..


The lack of trans setup pics was only because i was getting into it didnt stop for pics.. The trans mount is the toyota bracket with 2 stainless steel brackets bolted to the z tunnel.post-3128-0-11308900-1448422629_thumb.jpg


Shifter i made. You can see one of the stainless steel brackets in the trans hole.. Console put back in using the Z shift boot. and thicker lower z trans hole cover.. Toyota shifter barely peeking out.. Lol  Works good though.. I do have to watch my hand when putting the car in reverse. E-brake handle is close.









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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Kyle319,  Just message me when your ready and i will help you out. Remember that any timing map you use, you have to change it for your engine. Your new engine swap should run off of any L28turbo, 7mgte, 1jzgte or 2jgte map.. Then you have to make changes as you drive the car.. If you dont YOU MAY BLOW YOUR ENGINE UP.


I have been doing street tuning and freeway tuning runs when i have time to do so. Engine is running off of my L28 NAT Map.. Im just making changes as i drive the car.. Christmas time is here and work is slow so not a lot of extra money to spend on tuning..

I have been looking at 2JZ tunes on Supra Forum and 7MGTE tunes.. Surprisingly all are very close to mine, depending on Turbo boost levels..

Im running off of my 15psi Tial wastegate spring.. Which showed 13psi of boost on my gauge, with the L28NAT Engine..

I am only looking for high 300hp but no more than 450hp on the street. I think anything over that is overkill and you cant use it anyway.


Im not dumping the clutch in 1st gear since i have the W-58 trans in my car. I used to get messed with all the time on the Freeway, so i want 4th gear right..  :ph34r:


Future plans: A new set of tires. New alternator, mine is whining.. The engine is really loud with the Flowmaster muffler on it, so looking to quiet it down some with another muffler.. I bought an Ebay special GT35 T4 Turbo thinking it would boost at about 3,000rpm.. But full boost is coming on at 3,800rpm which im not really liking.. So hopefully i can lean out the tunes freeway map areas to get the turbo to boost sooner.. Otherwise im going to get a smaller turbo for the engine.. Im so glad i didnt get the GT45 turbo i was thinking about. This is why I bought the cheap chinese turbo in the first place. Id rather spend $250 for a turbo and not like it, then $800 and not like it. Later i can buy the quality Garrett, Precision and so on. 


Last sunday i was doing some 4th gear tuning runs. I was doing 75 in 4th gear and floored it.. Car pulled so hard it took me into the next lane. Glad i do those with nobody next to me. Engine is strong. Stock 2JZGTE Boost is 10.8psi. So this thing at 13-15psi definately makes my day. The difference between my old L28NAT and this 2JNAT are night and day..

Edited by dexter72
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Its all good. I just wanted to show people this swap is doable on a low budget. Car is meant to have fun.. If I wanted to race the car I would have done this differently.


Seeing budget swaps like this always makes me indecisive. I sometimes I want to just keep my L28, other times I want to buy this L28ET that's in town, then I wanna go big and do an RB25, or just an NA 2JZ.... Decisions are hard haha. 


Really comes down to power for cost. I'm not looking for much more than maybe 200whp. The car will be pretty much entirely street and really just for fun and some cruising. 

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If you have an L28 in your car, You can turbo it but you will eventually want more.. I enjoyed my NAT L28 but after being messed with by a lot of cars on the freeway, Pulled away from some, Others i had no chance. I said enough of this crap. Lol The costs to upgrade my old L28 and do this swap were close. New cam, followers, and Headwork would have been about $900.  For $200 bucks more i have this 2j swap, plus to upgrade this I only need larger injectors so i can add more boost.  :) 


You can get 200hp out of an l28 with just the turbo swap, if thats all you want...

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Yeah, dumping in the L28ET seems to be my best option right now. Sometimes I don't know if I just wanna drive around with the L28 though. It's in good shape and it runs nicely. I'm indecisive on buying the turbo motor and just letting it sit for a while while I focus on rust, paint, suspension and pretty much everything else and save the power stuff until later.

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  • 2 months later...

Quick Update::


Setup is still running well, All the lights on the car stopped working one eve. Checked power at my fuse box and it was good, turned the lights on checked power at the fuse box again, No power at the fuse box.. Uh Oh.. So took a few days and found that a 42 year old wire had corroded in my body harness. Fixed that and then my wideband started reading lean on acceleration only. So fixing this wire, which may have been bad for a long while, has me now working on the Acceleration Enrichment settings with my Megasquirt. :huh:

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  • 2 months later...

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