L33/TKO600 73 240Z

[hornedcow]

CHRISTMAS!



Got the new bellhousing, hydraulic throwout, and water pump/tensioner. Also got the A/C kit but more on that later.

With the new bellhousing installed, looks like clearance is good all around on the exhaust. Which is good, because I didn't want to have to hack it up.




This transmission with this exhaust is uncharted territory, so good to know the exhaust and y-pipe clear.



Accessory drive is coming together, just needs the AC compressor - it mounts above the alternator. My kit arrived but the compressor housing aluminum is oxidized/weathered even though it was new in box. Good customer support so far, they are sending me another one. Will have that on Monday it looks like.

Just got a tracking number for the rear conversion kit, should be next week as well.

[cheesepocket]

That CX exhaust kit looks super nice and a good fit.  No way a guy could do a custom setup for close to that price.

[hornedcow]

Here's what the accessory drive will look like completed, only with a longer belt.

 

 

Need to pick up some more hardware to make things permanent. Hopefully test fitting it back in the engine bay soon so I can make the transmission mount and drop it back in for good. Here's to hoping the exhaust won't interfere with the transmission crossmember relocation.

[Richard Oben]

Looks good!

[hornedcow]

Looks good!

Thanks!

 

Sweet baby jesus things got a little hairy bringing the diff down on the transmission jack. Maybe I shouldn't do things like that all at once without someone else here.

 

About halfway down the control arms decided they would rather swing backwards and bring the center of gravity over my feet rather than over my transmission jack. I was stuck holding them both in place so the whole assembly wouldn't fall off the trans jack. After a few choice words I was able to operate the transmission jack release with my foot, and once it got down to the bottom I was able to shift the assembly forward some so it won't tip over.

 

 

I probably should have either itemized the removal or secured the arms better. Next time.

[hornedcow]

Progress! Somewhat!

On Tuesday, my new tires arrived along with my donor Q45 drivetrain bits. Got the tires mounted on my new wheels, and stripped down the Q45 parts for what I will need and what I won't need. Everything from the Q45 will need to be thoroughly cleaned or it is going to look like crap alongside all the brand new suspension parts.




Old vs. New


Parts EXPLOSION

I did get the Q45 brakes with the dropout parts, but they were always plan B. Plan A was Z32 300ZX brakes for the rear (and eventually front). Thank you Nissan for keeping things simple! Caliper bolts right onto the Q45 spindle, rotor slides right on, it isn't perfectly centered in the caliper but it is within a couple MM. Even with brand new pads clearance is fine so if this all bolts to the stock spindles it should all bolt together on the new spindles as well.


This setup looks a lot better than the sliding single piston caliper that the Q45 offered (lighter too!). Plus, it will match the fronts when I'm done.

Today, most of the T3 rear conversion kit arrived, with the rest of it coming tomorrow. Coilovers, cross bar, front differential mount, control arm drop mounts, and control arms came today. It all looks amazing - very nice stuff.
I think all I'm missing is the spindles/backing plates, and the mustache bar, although I could be overlooking something.



I cracked open the Q45 rear diff and everything looks new inside, gear oil actually didn't even smell that atrocious, which is odd. Just need to clean up the casing and get it ready to install.

I may have to take a short Datsun hiatus, as I have a C5 Corvette I need to source and install a new transmission in. At least that job will put some cash back into the Datsun fund when complete. Probably have a few more days anyway to work on my car before the new tranny shows up.

[JoeK]

Looking good. It looks like TTT redesigned their drop mounts. Are those aluminum now? Did your Q45 drop out come with the parking brake cables?

[hornedcow]

Looking good. It looks like TTT redesigned their drop mounts. Are those aluminum now? Did your Q45 drop out come with the parking brake cables?

Yes, looks to be an anodized aluminum. Mine did come with cables, I'm debating between rebuilding all the parking brake hardware that was there or switching to a hydraulic setup.

[JoeK]

What would the advantage of a hydraulic set up be?

[alainburon]

I have not seen a hydraulic parking brake set up for the S30 that works without issues. Most set ups are basically line locks which are intended for short time use not overnight or for several days.

 

Some users have reported that they bleed off and the car rolls (if you forget to leave it in gear), others have reported the opposite, that when the release the parking brake the calipers do not release. This all is very dependent on weather conditions like temperature and humidity as well as how long the parking brake is on for. Can't go wrong with a cable in my opinion.

[hornedcow]

I have not seen a hydraulic parking brake set up for the S30 that works without issues. Most set ups are basically line locks which are intended for short time use not overnight or for several days.

 

Some users have reported that they bleed off and the car rolls (if you forget to leave it in gear), others have reported the opposite, that when the release the parking brake the calipers do not release. This all is very dependent on weather conditions like temperature and humidity as well as how long the parking brake is on for. Can't go wrong with a cable in my opinion.

I don't understand why one would work differently on one chassis vs. another. I have one laying around from my Corolla. It's a lot less complicated and lighter than a drum in rotor style parking brake setup, as you can ditch pretty much everything in the rotor hat. Downside is trying to work the new handbrake mounting and lines into the car.

 

I may just get the car rolling/driving for now and rebuild the parking brake setup at a later time.

[alainburon]

Good to hear that it worked on your Corolla. I was just pointing out what I have seen over the years. I decided to go cable because of the issues I have seen with the hydraulic set up. Not to mention I did not want brake lines inside my car. One leak and its all over with for the carpet, etc. Weight savings was not something I was concerned with either since these cars are so light already, besides how much weigh could you possibly save?

 

Either way that was just my opinion and you know what they say about those.  Keep up the good work, nice build.

[hornedcow]

Good to hear that it worked on your Corolla. I was just pointing out what I have seen over the years. I decided to go cable because of the issues I have seen with the hydraulic set up. Not to mention I did not want brake lines inside my car. One leak and its all over with for the carpet, etc. Weight savings was not something I was concerned with either since these cars are so light already, besides how much weigh could you possibly save?

 

Either way that was just my opinion and you know what they say about those.  Keep up the good work, nice build.

10lbs out of a 2000lb car makes a lot more difference than 10lbs out of a 4000lb car! Reducing weight is the heart of braking, handling, and speed!

That being said, I dislike the hydro setup for the same reasons you stated. Just didn't want to rebuild the parking brakes but I likely will.

 

I received the mustache bar from the suspension kit, still waiting for the backing plates/knuckles.

 

Inspected/cleaned/painted the diff as well as a few other parts. Tomorrow should be able to get some real stuff done. Hoping to install the clutch/flywheel and get my measurements for the hydraulic throwout. Once that is done I can mate the engine and transmission for good! (hopefully)

 

Edited March 6, 2016 by hornedcow

[hornedcow]

Was planning on dropping the engine back in today but realized I need a clutch hose now as it cannot be installed with the transmission in the car. Luckily, the NAPA close to me makes hydraulic hose fittings. Unluckily, they don't have the fittings I need.

With that plan scratched, I figured I would see how much I could get done on the rear end.


Got the mustache bar mounted first to the diff

Then lift the whole assembly into place



Installed the drop bars that secure the lower control arms as well as the tie bar linking the two.


Installed the lower control arms


Then buttoned up a few things

Need to get the correct length bolts to bolt the differential to the front mount, the old bolts are too long. Otherwise, everything went together pretty smoothly. Would have sucked doing this on the ground or without a trans jack, though. Would have been nice for the kit to have 100% of the hardware and parts needed, there are a few brackets and bolts that need to be re-used from the OEM setup.

Going to have my clutch hose made tomorrow, then I should be able to get some things done up front.

[JoeK]

Wish I had thought of it at the time, but the differential cross member could theoretically be cut apart. All you need are the sections that holds the control arms, since the diff now mounts differently. I had that crossmember, as well as the rear RCA clips, powdercoated the same color as the rest of the TTT parts. after which I figured out I could cut that middle section out of the crossmember and it wouldn't impede driveshaft install, or even install/removal of the diff itself.

 

As far as parts I wish the kit came with, it would be nice if it came with some hardware to connect the parking brake cables to the parking brake lever assembly. Gonna have to fabricate up a little bracket for that.

[hornedcow]

Wish I had thought of it at the time, but the differential cross member could theoretically be cut apart. All you need are the sections that holds the control arms, since the diff now mounts differently. I had that crossmember, as well as the rear RCA clips, powdercoated the same color as the rest of the TTT parts. after which I figured out I could cut that middle section out of the crossmember and it wouldn't impede driveshaft install, or even install/removal of the diff itself.

 

As far as parts I wish the kit came with, it would be nice if it came with some hardware to connect the parking brake cables to the parking brake lever assembly. Gonna have to fabricate up a little bracket for that.

 

Yes, that is a good idea. Some of the pictures on the TTT site show a cut mount holding the control arms in place in the front, others show the stock mount in place. I wonder how much that bracket increases rigidity (just thinking out loud)

 

Overall I had to reuse the front diff mount (just for LCA mounting point)

Hardware for the old diff mount

Hardware for the new diff mount

The bushing end caps for the control arms

The lower plates for the drop bars at the rear of the control arms

And I need to buy bolts for the front diff to front diff mount. Old bolts are too long.

 

Just a few more little pieces and literally every nut bolt and part would be new. Would have been nice for that to be included but as long as it performs like it looks I'll be happy!

[hornedcow]

Made some progress on the Z again.

Got the correct mounting bolts for the diff so that is all done, just waiting for the axles and knuckles now.

I had a custom clutch line made, which as you may recall was the reason I couldn't drop the motor in over the weekend. So here we are.





Transmission is being held in place with a jack, took a few preliminary measurements and things look pretty good. If things go well tomorrow I'll cut up the old transmission crossmember and make it work for me.

[hornedcow]

Plan for tonight was to modify/fabricate the transmission crossmember to fit the TKO transmission location.

Was a good night, pretty much everything went to plan as I was laying it out in my mind. The TKO transmission mount location sets the mounting point about 2.5" rearward and about 1" below the stock height. I basically cut out the center section of the crossmember (it is very small, only the width of the tunnel) , extended the sides with new steel and rewelded the perches in the new location.

The bushings were pretty bad before, now they are completely trashed as you would expect from the heat of welding pretty much right on top of them. Energy suspension makes replacements, and of course it doesn't come in the master kit I have. So I'll get that on the way and I'll be set.




You can see the crossmember is at a downward angle, sagging from the failed bushings. Will be fixed soon enough.

With the transmission and engine in place, I can get my measurements for driveline angles and driveshaft length and get those balls rolling. Coming together!

[hornedcow]

Went to go check clearance on a few things, and to this point I have been amazed at how well everything has fit. I have finally run into a slight snare, although not too bad.

When I test fitted the engine the first time (sans starter and transmission) the passenger side header literally dropped right in from the top. The driver side wouldn't go in, it appeared that the steering shaft might have to be moved and then re-installed post header.

Because of the way the strut rod mounts protrude into the engine bay, you actually have to remove the steering shaft and lift the motor up slightly to install the driver side header. And you do it from underneath. Not ideal, but not too bad.
On the passenger side, things are even tighter with the starter in place. Header can not be installed on-car with the starter installed. No biggie, just pulled the starter and the header just about slipped into place. Unfortunately, when I then went to re-install the starter I realized there was no room to slip the starter in. You have to have the header roughly in place (but not bolted in) and you can slip the starter by and barely get enough room to tighten the bolts. Then you can finish installing the header. Luckily, neither of those things are likely to be getting moved on any regular basis. And the header is v-band so no worries about broken flange hardware when the time does come.

Clearance may be slightly better if I used a short bolt/long bolt starter instead of a starter with two long bolts. It's an updated and better design though, there have been a few issues with snapping off the short ear on those, which is why they changed the design (at least on whatever application I looked up to pull a starter)

 

Next I finished the shifter relocate for the transmission. Needed to move the shifter back about 4.5". Used a piece of 3/4" square tube and slotted 2 ends so that it would slide over both sides of the shifter stub, then welded it on. Did the same for the other end.

Also found a new shop buddy



There are a lot of local basilisks here, but usually not in the shop. Must have come in the other night while we were working. This one is a juvenile female - I scurried her away as the concrete floor is not friendly to cold-blooded creatures.

[hornedcow]

Almost a roller again!

 

 

Got the backing plates, new bearings, transmission crossmember bushings, and new rack boots all today.

 

Installing the poly trans bushings was easier than expected, which I attribute to the welding I did on the crossmember. All set in place now, nice and solid.

 

Have the hubs, front rotors, and rear rotors set to go to a friend to have the bolt patterns re-drilled. Going with Z32 rotors and 2 piston aluminum calipers for the rear, and Honda Odyssey rotors and Z32 4 piston aluminum calipers up front.